No doubt about it: A red point is still a red point whether or not it's heavily rehearsed first. It's still either a red point or you hung on a piece. Someone else can always come along and do the first on-sight flash. That's a quantum leap in difficult and a great improvement in style. But a red point is still a red point is still a red point.
Repeated on 2018-11-7, after a multiyear effort by Carlo Traversi.
Meltdown. What a ride.
First tried this beautiful line in 2013 and got completely shut down. Couldnít figure out how to stand on the absolutely miserable footholds.
The next year I tried again and solved the crux, a desperate lie back section on gently overhanging granite while smearing on glass. I thought everything would come together quickly after that but I was wrong. Itís one thing to climb through a difficult section, itís another to be relaxed enough while youíre doing it to not burn yourself out for the rest of the route.
I top roped it clean at the end of 2015, got desperately close on lead, and then proceeded to go to war with the weather through 2016 and 2017.
This season it all came together. A dry Fall and this week the colder temps are just sweeping into the Valley. Yesterday I was able to climb it on my 3rd try of the day after a couple weird slips after the crux on the first two tries. All gear was placed on lead, after the first piece was placed I climbed back down to the ground to re-chalk and re-compose. The climbing went smoothly including the placement of the final #4 @blackdiamond Stopper which is always a tricky one to get in.
A massive thanks to @marymeck for all the days supporting me in the Valley through some of the coldest times. And my brother @gtraversi for standing in knee deep ice water in underwear in freezing temps to belay when the pool at the base of the route filled up.
Last but not least a huge thanks to @bethrodden for the vision, tenacity, and incredible climbing ability that brought this route to life over 10 years ago. The First Ascent of this route is a benchmark in the history of climbing and is one of the most impressive achievements I can think of in the last few decades. Respect.
Photo by @bearcam. @blackdiamond @blackdiamond_climb @fiveten_official @frictionlabs @theboulderfield
From that write up, he sounds like a class act. Admirable putting in that much time and effort. I can't imagine putting up a route that needs a decade to repeat, at least a route on that end of the difficulty spectrum.