FA of .14c crack in Yosemite

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climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Jul 15, 2012 - 03:24am PT
Hmm

really cool thread.

What she did was hard and very well earned

What BACHAR said was honest and has just basic commen sense going for it.

Trad lead?

I guess so..

but hell with so much rehersal .. how much trad is needed,,,

14c.. f*#king impressive period on toprope

calling it a trad climb and PRing the hell out of it...

Understandable if trying to make a living I guess.. but .. a bit of a stretch..

in the end it's climbing .. too bad it needs money to continue...

climbing is cool and this was waaaay cool... except for trying to equate it with TRAD


I have no idea what to call it...

hell she didnt bolt it KUDOS!!.. and she did take it a BIG level up and lead it instead of TR...


So I guess call it heavily rehearsed 5.14c lead of a thin crack in Yosemite.

same sh#t I guess

BEER makes me deliberate on stupid Minutia.. perhaps I should have posted this on the friday drinking thread
GDavis

Social climber
SOL CAL
Jul 15, 2012 - 09:19am PT
Luckily the only 10 people that care that its called a Traditional ascent are on this website, and have no friends.



It's called climbing... it all is.
10b4me

Ice climber
dingy room at the Happy boulders hotel
Jul 15, 2012 - 12:35pm PT
Is Beth still climbing?
Bruce Morris

Social climber
Belmont, California
Jul 15, 2012 - 04:37pm PT
No doubt about it: A red point is still a red point whether or not it's heavily rehearsed first. It's still either a red point or you hung on a piece. Someone else can always come along and do the first on-sight flash. That's a quantum leap in difficult and a great improvement in style. But a red point is still a red point is still a red point.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Nov 8, 2018 - 06:03pm PT
Repeated on 2018-11-7, after a multiyear effort by Carlo Traversi.

Meltdown. What a ride.

First tried this beautiful line in 2013 and got completely shut down. Couldnít figure out how to stand on the absolutely miserable footholds.

The next year I tried again and solved the crux, a desperate lie back section on gently overhanging granite while smearing on glass. I thought everything would come together quickly after that but I was wrong. Itís one thing to climb through a difficult section, itís another to be relaxed enough while youíre doing it to not burn yourself out for the rest of the route.

I top roped it clean at the end of 2015, got desperately close on lead, and then proceeded to go to war with the weather through 2016 and 2017.

This season it all came together. A dry Fall and this week the colder temps are just sweeping into the Valley. Yesterday I was able to climb it on my 3rd try of the day after a couple weird slips after the crux on the first two tries. All gear was placed on lead, after the first piece was placed I climbed back down to the ground to re-chalk and re-compose. The climbing went smoothly including the placement of the final #4 @blackdiamond Stopper which is always a tricky one to get in.

A massive thanks to @marymeck for all the days supporting me in the Valley through some of the coldest times. And my brother @gtraversi for standing in knee deep ice water in underwear in freezing temps to belay when the pool at the base of the route filled up.

Last but not least a huge thanks to @bethrodden for the vision, tenacity, and incredible climbing ability that brought this route to life over 10 years ago. The First Ascent of this route is a benchmark in the history of climbing and is one of the most impressive achievements I can think of in the last few decades. Respect.

Photo by @bearcam. @blackdiamond @blackdiamond_climb @fiveten_official @frictionlabs @theboulderfield
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bp7OSBhA2Dw/
https://rockandice.com/climbing-news/carlo-traversi-repeats-meltdown-5-14c-hardest-crack-in-yosemite-and-the-world/

This was already reported on the other thread
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/65106/Limits-to-Free-Climbing-in-Yosemite
but I thought this was a better place for it.
COT

climber
Door Number 3
Nov 9, 2018 - 06:29am PT
FMA!
marty(r)

climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
Nov 9, 2018 - 06:40am PT
There's some chilling footage of Meltdown inside this video. Enjoy.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Nov 9, 2018 - 08:44am PT
Cool video, Marty!
Looks like a terrific bouldering gym. Traversi appears to be a dedicated, driven man, with a work ethic that is paying off for him.

https://www.theboulderfield.com/

At about 2:18 there is footage of Carlo on Kauk's route, Magic Line.
I didn't see any passages from an ascent of Meltdown?
Jim Clipper

climber
Nov 9, 2018 - 08:52am PT
From that write up, he sounds like a class act. Admirable putting in that much time and effort. I can't imagine putting up a route that needs a decade to repeat, at least a route on that end of the difficulty spectrum.
WBraun

climber
Nov 9, 2018 - 08:56am PT
I didn't see any passages from an ascent of Meltdown?

I didn't either.

Probably because hardly anyone here has ever actually seen it in person.

It's pretty well hidden from general populations eyes.

You have to do some scrambling and hiking to get there and it is a very short pitch ......
Aeriq

Social climber
Location: It's a MisterE
Nov 9, 2018 - 09:52am PT
Pretty poor quality audio & video, but the footage for Meltdown starts at 3:52:

https://vimeo.com/6530477
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