Nanook
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2009 - 07:34am PT
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Just in case it's not clear about the two sizes.
The smaller one fits 1/4" button heads and 5/6" machine heads. So five or so of those are all you'll need for most wall climbs in Yosemite.
There are a few routes with 3/8" buttonhead rivets, like Tangerine Trip/Aquarian, where having a few of the bigger ones would be nice.
cheers
e
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Apr 12, 2009 - 08:28am PT
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You can't get a better endorsement of Theron than from McTopo's Other Great Machinist, who is Tom aka Herr Doktor Doktor Professor.
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Apr 12, 2009 - 08:35am PT
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Cool photos. I love the big machines as well!
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Any chance of doing a copy of the one on the left???
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
dangling off a wind turbine in a town near you
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Groovy.
That shop gives me a chubby
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Captain...or Skully
Social climber
North of the Owyhees
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Dude, you're scarin' me.
Oh, look! a squirrel.
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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I vote for RP copies too.
Much less likely to leverage out the rivet.
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T Moses
Trad climber
Paso Robles
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Honestly, it has been on my mind. Been really busy. You know: Tomahawks, Logan Hooks, Fragile Flake Hooks, D5 Hammer, second batch of Cam Hooks (micro, narrow, wide), current batch of Rivet Hangers, etc...
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Nanook
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 4, 2009 - 10:54pm PT
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Huh? The RP style leverages the rivet out less than Holy Moses hanger?
The engineers I talked to said that the leverage would be a function of the distance the clip-in biner is from the wall when weighted, and that the closer the biner could be to the wall the better. Did I get something wrong there?
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Shack
Big Wall climber
Reno NV
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No, you got it right.
With the RP hangers, the biner hangs flat against the rock like a standard bolt hanger, but the other types make the biner hang at a 90 degree angle to the rock, increasing the leverage on the rivet.
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