Holy Moses Keyhole hangers(photo tr)


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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2009 - 10:34am PT
Just in case it's not clear about the two sizes.

The smaller one fits 1/4" button heads and 5/6" machine heads. So five or so of those are all you'll need for most wall climbs in Yosemite.

There are a few routes with 3/8" buttonhead rivets, like Tangerine Trip/Aquarian, where having a few of the bigger ones would be nice.

'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Apr 12, 2009 - 11:28am PT
You can't get a better endorsement of Theron than from McTopo's Other Great Machinist, who is Tom aka Herr Doktor Doktor Professor.

Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
Apr 12, 2009 - 11:35am PT
Cool photos. I love the big machines as well!

Social climber
The Deli
May 4, 2009 - 09:39pm PT
Any chance of doing a copy of the one on the left???


dangling off a wind turbine in a town near you
May 4, 2009 - 09:55pm PT

That shop gives me a chubby
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
North of the Owyhees
May 4, 2009 - 11:13pm PT
Dude, you're scarin' me.
Oh, look! a squirrel.

Big Wall climber
Reno NV
May 4, 2009 - 11:15pm PT
I vote for RP copies too.
Much less likely to leverage out the rivet.
T Moses

Trad climber
Paso Robles
May 5, 2009 - 12:23am PT
Honestly, it has been on my mind. Been really busy. You know: Tomahawks, Logan Hooks, Fragile Flake Hooks, D5 Hammer, second batch of Cam Hooks (micro, narrow, wide), current batch of Rivet Hangers, etc...

Topic Author's Reply - May 5, 2009 - 01:54am PT
Huh? The RP style leverages the rivet out less than Holy Moses hanger?

The engineers I talked to said that the leverage would be a function of the distance the clip-in biner is from the wall when weighted, and that the closer the biner could be to the wall the better. Did I get something wrong there?

Big Wall climber
Reno NV
May 5, 2009 - 02:08am PT
No, you got it right.
With the RP hangers, the biner hangs flat against the rock like a standard bolt hanger, but the other types make the biner hang at a 90 degree angle to the rock, increasing the leverage on the rivet.

Trad climber
Jan 22, 2015 - 12:03pm PT
bump for some cool stuff

Social climber
Jan 22, 2015 - 12:34pm PT
I vote for RP copies too.
Much less likely to leverage out the rivet.

Me, too! I still maybe have one or two of the RP hangers left--precious! They don't try to pull the bolt out--important with old desert bolts that are still strong, shear-wise, but little pull-out integrity in soft rock.

The curved hanger design does not fit so well under some rusted nuts/washers when they are too tight to the rock--there's some extra space needed to accommodate the curve. This is worse if the washer is a large, fender-style washer.

But every replaceable hanger design has its issues...best is for the FA party to leave the damn hanger in place!

Fixe make a version like the old RP hanger:


It's fatter gauge steel, confidence inspiring but also a bit harder to thread onto some bolt studs, over whatever nut or washer there may be..
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