Holy Moses Keyhole hangers(photo tr)

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 50 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 2, 2008 - 01:12am PT
TMoses- if you are trying to fit the older 1/4" buttonheads in your product offering keep in mind that the thinest of modified SMC keyhole hangers were used by myself and others to set the clearence for a snug fit while in place. Material thicker than 3/32" may not slip into place. Just an observation.

Mighty nice shop you have, I'm envious.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 2, 2008 - 01:43am PT
Just for grins, second in from the lower left is a prized original Dolt keyhole, the first and best available for many years.
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2008 - 01:50am PT
Sorry about that second shot Theron. I just changed it.

Thanks for the pics Steve. Awesome.

T Moses

Trad climber
Paso Robles
Jan 2, 2008 - 08:31pm PT
Steve: Hangers are 0.090 thick. 3/32 converts to 0.09375. So the answer to your comment is yes they will fit your routes.

Erik: I was joking about the picture. Thanks for changing it anyway.

The new hangers look a lot like the old Dolt Hangers. Dolt had a winner in the simplicity of the design.
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jan 2, 2008 - 08:44pm PT
We have a bunch of those lower left hangers up on Beacon only with less thickness between the inner and outer edges of the clip hole - scary stuff. Mostly put up on routes by Dean Caldwell and Kim Schmitz I believe.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 3, 2008 - 10:12pm PT
Thanks for the response TMoses. That should do the trick on the clearences for old button heads. I also used the bevel headed version of the Rawl split shaft for studs. That Dolt hanger has seen some healthy falls over the years! Dolt is the probably the father of the keyhole design. Certainly the first commercially available one as of the early seventies.

Joe-Those aluminum poptop hangers were always an adventure to come accross. The thin lipped ones that you mentioned started stretching every which way from day one. I never heard about one breaking but sure saw lots of melted ones.
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jan 3, 2008 - 10:25pm PT
The pop-tops (lower left) are Gerry hangers.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 3, 2008 - 10:53pm PT
Ron- did Gerry import or make much other hardware that you can recall?
healyje

Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Jan 3, 2008 - 11:02pm PT
Steve, I free climb above skyhooks and crack 'n ups and I've yet to be able to bring myself to clip one of those damn poptops. I don't mind fooling myself, but I can't quite buy into those rascals.

Ron, now that you mention it I do remember Gerry selling those - what other gear did they sell? I think I have one of their biners but can't recall what else...
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jan 3, 2008 - 11:17pm PT
I think that's about it, and weren't the biners just Bedayns with a Gerry batch stamp?

Gerry Cunningham of Boulder I believe.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 4, 2008 - 11:47am PT
That corresponds with my recollection. Strange that those guys would choose to float the highest liability items with little other product line behind it. The Gerrytube was the pinnacle of that outfit's product line. LOL

I have never seen a Gerry biner. Show and tell?
WBraun

climber
Apr 11, 2009 - 12:03pm PT
Bump for hardware and cool machinery.

Too much talk and paper talk and not enough real results in our world.

Here's to you who actually produce ......
Reilly

Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
Apr 11, 2009 - 12:17pm PT
I'm curious why you didn't make 'em like the SMC or Leeper 'folded' design which wouldn't put any outward prying moment on the rivet? I realize it would mean a slightly larger hanger but it seems safer. Also, if you're not leaving 'em why not use regular steel at 1/4 the cost?
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Apr 11, 2009 - 12:20pm PT
Bump because this is the first time saw this... very cool!

I love the machine shop trip report. (Although machine shop is probably not the right word for that?) I wish that my business involved all those cool toys and a big warehouse and not just sitting in front of a computer...

Thanks for the initiative Nanook and the skills and follow through by Theron! I just bought a key Keyhole Hangerand Cam Hook from Mountain Gear and I am psyched to try them out.
Mike.

climber
Apr 11, 2009 - 01:43pm PT
Bump for T Moses's initiative, follow through and cool wares. Nice stuff, Theron.


I have to toss a word out about the PFH-style rivet hanger designs like the ones you replicated (the short, angled ones). That design inherently puts a lot of outward force on a rivet. It also pulls downward from the furthest point from the rock. I clued into this after Gabe ripped two 20 year old machine head rivets on Aurora. Another of the same rivet held the 30-something footer, which was rigged with the longer style hanger (similar to your long ones). I imagine this angled hanger design was originally intended for use on a bolt in a threaded sleeve.

Yes, Gabe is not a small guy, and the rivets which failed were but two. I'm not positive if the rivet which blew in the fall was PFH-style hangered, but definitely the one that failed under body weight was. It is very curious to me that the rivets were fine for probably a couple dozen (more?) ascents before one failed under body weight.

FWIW...
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Apr 11, 2009 - 01:58pm PT
How did such a great thread disappear into oblivion in just a few days? I missed it the first time - I'm guessing I was underground.

Those rivet hangers look SWEET! May I please put a couple of each on my Wish List, along with the revamped Russkies and one each cam hook?

As I've said repeatedly, Theron Moses makes GOOD STUFF.

[Her nickname is Batgirl, not bigwall Kate. I thought you guys knew this! Bigwall so-and-so's are a dime a dozen, but there is only ONE Batgirl.]
Nanook

climber
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 11, 2009 - 03:00pm PT
Yeeeeeeeah!

Wowzer time flies. Hard to believe that Theron cut out our first prototype hangers in the fall of '05. Thanks for staying with it bro.

Are these in the Yose Mt. shop yet?

Mike--I saw your notes about Gabe's fall on an ancient keyhole hanger thread while we were designing these hangers. Your thoughts led me to talk to some engineers about the design which then shifted our focus to a less bent, more scooped hanger. so Thanks.

The landscape/yoga picture is right near Theron's house in Paso Robles. Very fun spot to visit.

best
e
T Moses

Trad climber
Paso Robles
Apr 12, 2009 - 12:45am PT
Machine shop would be the right term for most of what you see. We are really considered a high speed metal stamping shop. The machine shop portion is basically used for maintence on the big (55-110 ton) punch presses.

Hangers in the tumbler right now:



Mike.

climber
Apr 12, 2009 - 01:44am PT
Thanks for that info, Erik.

If I had me druthers I'd be sporting those long droopy ones in sizes to fit 1/4, 5/16 and 3/8 inch shafts. Guy's gotta dream...

Keep rocking it, Theron.
Tom

Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
Apr 12, 2009 - 06:14am PT
Holy Moses is the Man.

You've seen the pictures, and you can see what he can do.

Because he has access to the great machinery, he can create the great little pieces.

And he's really pretty good, making those sort of things.

He's the New Chouinard: I kid you not.
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