Most out-there 5.8 pitch anywhere...


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Trad climber
Otto, NC
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 23, 2004 - 12:41am PT
That last one got me to thinking-

--Hindu Kush, Shiprock, NC. The fact that one is only perhaps 35 feet off the ground while performing the infamous mantling-onto-the-surfboard move doesn't seem to diminish its bizarre, sphincter-clutching strangeness one iota.

--New Diversions, Whitesides. Somewhere in the middle of this nebulous tour is a 5.8 jug-haul out a bulge over a belay that puts the wind in your sails for the first time, much like the Crescent pitch on the O.R. a few hundred feet over to the right.

--Finger of Fate, the Titan. the last roped pitch is mostly mandatory aid (unless you're named Stevie Haston), until a hand crack through a caprock roof reminds you: you're a free climber! climbing is fun! and you ditch the aiders for the poor jugging scrubbie to schlep, feet kicking free, hands locked! into a perfect splitter in what is at long, long last the first chunk of decent rock on this crumbling shitheap, nine hundred feet above the dribble-castle Gaudi landscape of the Fishers. Tie it off six feet later and hike to the top while homie jugs.


Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Dec 23, 2004 - 03:08am PT
I think the bombay squeeze chimney pitch on NE But of Higher Cathedral is a cool 5.8 pitch.

Trad climber
Otto, NC
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2004 - 09:08am PT
That would be one of the more 'in-there' pitches...

which reminds me:

    Chimney of Horrors, Robbins Route, Higher Cathedral Spire.
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Dec 23, 2004 - 09:23am PT
I don't know if it's would be considered "out there" but Traitor Horn at Tahquitz is pretty cool route and the horn is in a pretty exposed position.

I don't get mad, I get stabby -- Fat Tony
Dec 23, 2004 - 10:04am PT
>>Modern Times, Gunks -- Last pitch (5.8+)
>>Cascading Crystal Kalidescope, Gunks -- Last pitch (5.8-)
>>The Nose, El Cap -- 2 or 3 pitches above camp 6 is a C1/5.8 pitch. It's hard to believe that you're plugging in gear and free climbing 2500' off the ground in a nice hand crack. It's even better when a thunderstorm is chasing you down :)
>>Moby Grape, Cannon Mtn, NH -- Finger of Fate pitch (5.8) or the Triangle Roof pitch (5.8)
>> Reg NW Face, Half Dome -- The pitch leading to Big Sandy Ledge (5.8)
>> Son of Easy O, Gunks -- Last pitch (5.8)
>> Cruise Control, Gunks -- Either pitch (5.8+, 5.8+)

Cardiff by the sea
Dec 23, 2004 - 10:14am PT
Yea Lambone, that 5.8 chimney on th NE Butt of Higher is probably what like the Harding slot is like for the 5.9 climber. Kind of out there.

Trad climber
Dec 23, 2004 - 12:40pm PT
My favorite although only 5.7, Panic Point, Monkeys Face, Smith Rocks Oregon. Climb out of the Monkeys mouth to massive exposure, classic.
mike hartley

Dec 23, 2004 - 12:58pm PT
I think the "white flake" pitch (5.7) up high on the E. Butt of El Cap may be the best pitch I've ever done anywhere regardless of the grade.

Mountain climber
Tustin, Calif.
Dec 23, 2004 - 02:19pm PT
Although not 5.8 there are a couple of pitches on the E. Face of Whitney that have big air. Also the bombay chimney on the N. Chim. of Castleton is airy.

Trad climber
cayucos california
Dec 23, 2004 - 02:23pm PT
yes bilbo that 5.7 on the Monkey is awsome.

But one of the most awkwark 5.8's is gotta be the 3rd pitch of The South Face of the column. I tried to think hard to remember one off of other routes that i have done but this one really hits the spot AWKYward


Trad climber
LA, Ca
Dec 23, 2004 - 02:27pm PT
Tahquitz Rock, Mechanics Route.

Trad climber
emporium, pa
Dec 23, 2004 - 04:48pm PT
Yeah, that pitch on the Column was interesting with trail running shoes and a fat rack. I'm glad to hear someone else say that cause I thought I was just being soft. The chimney on NE butress of Higher Cathedral is a classic pitch on a classic route.

Trad climber
san francisco
Dec 23, 2004 - 06:03pm PT
the moves through the roof on little john right is nice for 5.8. I saw a guy with an artificial leg do it on lead once, blew me away and made me realize what a puss I am.

Trad climber
San Francisco
Dec 23, 2004 - 09:23pm PT
i first led little john right when i was only leading up to about 5.9 and as we returned to the base of the climb, the group of people whose leader was struggling on the adjacent route (a wide-ish 5.9) asked me if what we'd just done was "only 5.8"...

my response:
"i have no idea what 5.8 is- what the hell does '5.8' mean anyway?"

other 5.8 pitches:
the 1st pitch of the EB of LCR
the Robbins traverse on the RNWF of HD
the half dollar pitch on FB (w/ nice rope drag potential)

as for the 5.8s (mentioned above) at the gunks, i have only done a couple of those, but (while leading the last pitch of the son of easy o) i remember thinking, "wow, i don't think i have ever placed gear on anything this steep before". just then my partner asked if it was hard and if i thought she'd be ok on such steep moves, so i cut my feet and hung from one hand and glory clipped, smiled at her and told her she'd be just fine- jug haul city baby, very cool, you cannot believe you are climbing 5.8!

Trad climber
san francisco
Dec 23, 2004 - 09:42pm PT
I felt the same way doing the final pitch of Bonnie's Roof "direct", maybe something like 40 ft through 3 big roofs maybe? incredibly steep and positive

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Dec 23, 2004 - 09:53pm PT
Anything at Granite Mountain, Arizona. The only time I was there, like 50 years ago, everthing was rated 5.8, even 5.10 routes.


Social climber
The West
Dec 23, 2004 - 10:37pm PT
The last pitch of Ancient Art, Fisher Towers.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Dec 24, 2004 - 02:53am PT
p4 of Braille Book (Upper Cathedral Rock, Yosemite Valley) - certainly got my attention
p1 of Notably Knobular (Cascade Falls, Yosemite Valley) - I will never do it again
p2 of Golden Needles (Cascade Falls, Left, Yosemite Valley) - less out there then it appears
p2 of Ejesta (Reed's Pinnacle, Yosemite Valley) - hanging it out on the traverse!
p4 of Selanginella (Yosemite Falls West, Yosemite Valley) - fun exposed traverse
p2 of R.C.A. (DAFF, Tuolumne Meadows) - bring some tri-cams along
p1 of Indirect Traverse (The Monolith, Pinnacles) - run it out to a spinner, ugh.
p2 of Drunkard's Delight (Trapps, 'Gunks) - great roof
p2 of Arrow (Trapps, 'Gunks) - thin face moves to exit
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK, Traps, 'Gunks) - wonderful throughout
p6 of Moby Grape (Cannon Mountain) - the freaky Finger of Fate pitch
John Vawter

Social climber
San Diego
Dec 24, 2004 - 12:26pm PT
The Step at Tahquitz used to be rated 5.8, now .10a. Ditto for The Swallow. Right Ski Track was 5.8 back in the day, but that awful width will make you pant hard.


Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Dec 24, 2004 - 12:45pm PT
Pitch 9 of Spitagoras in the Tre Cime de Lavaredo area of the Dolomites (Italy). Almost and entire 50m ropelength of overhanging jugs with only two bolts for protection. You are right on the arete with about 1200' of nothing below you.

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