Most out-there 5.8 pitch anywhere...

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Rhodo-Router

Trad climber
Otto, NC
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 22, 2004 - 09:41pm PT
That last one got me to thinking-

--Hindu Kush, Shiprock, NC. The fact that one is only perhaps 35 feet off the ground while performing the infamous mantling-onto-the-surfboard move doesn't seem to diminish its bizarre, sphincter-clutching strangeness one iota.

--New Diversions, Whitesides. Somewhere in the middle of this nebulous tour is a 5.8 jug-haul out a bulge over a belay that puts the wind in your sails for the first time, much like the Crescent pitch on the O.R. a few hundred feet over to the right.

--Finger of Fate, the Titan. the last roped pitch is mostly mandatory aid (unless you're named Stevie Haston), until a hand crack through a caprock roof reminds you: you're a free climber! climbing is fun! and you ditch the aiders for the poor jugging scrubbie to schlep, feet kicking free, hands locked! into a perfect splitter in what is at long, long last the first chunk of decent rock on this crumbling shitheap, nine hundred feet above the dribble-castle Gaudi landscape of the Fishers. Tie it off six feet later and hike to the top while homie jugs.

Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Dec 23, 2004 - 12:08am PT
I think the bombay squeeze chimney pitch on NE But of Higher Cathedral is a cool 5.8 pitch.
Rhodo-Router

Trad climber
Otto, NC
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2004 - 06:08am PT
That would be one of the more 'in-there' pitches...

which reminds me:

    Chimney of Horrors, Robbins Route, Higher Cathedral Spire.
can't say

Social climber
Pasadena CA
Dec 23, 2004 - 06:23am PT
I don't know if it's would be considered "out there" but Traitor Horn at Tahquitz is pretty cool route and the horn is in a pretty exposed position.
Gunkie

climber
I don't get mad, I get stabby -- Fat Tony
Dec 23, 2004 - 07:04am PT
>>Modern Times, Gunks -- Last pitch (5.8+)
>>Cascading Crystal Kalidescope, Gunks -- Last pitch (5.8-)
>>The Nose, El Cap -- 2 or 3 pitches above camp 6 is a C1/5.8 pitch. It's hard to believe that you're plugging in gear and free climbing 2500' off the ground in a nice hand crack. It's even better when a thunderstorm is chasing you down :)
>>Moby Grape, Cannon Mtn, NH -- Finger of Fate pitch (5.8) or the Triangle Roof pitch (5.8)
>> Reg NW Face, Half Dome -- The pitch leading to Big Sandy Ledge (5.8)
>> Son of Easy O, Gunks -- Last pitch (5.8)
>> Cruise Control, Gunks -- Either pitch (5.8+, 5.8+)
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Dec 23, 2004 - 07:14am PT
Yea Lambone, that 5.8 chimney on th NE Butt of Higher is probably what like the Harding slot is like for the 5.9 climber. Kind of out there.
Bilbo

Trad climber
Truckee
Dec 23, 2004 - 09:40am PT
My favorite although only 5.7, Panic Point, Monkeys Face, Smith Rocks Oregon. Climb out of the Monkeys mouth to massive exposure, classic.
mike hartley

climber
Dec 23, 2004 - 09:58am PT
I think the "white flake" pitch (5.7) up high on the E. Butt of El Cap may be the best pitch I've ever done anywhere regardless of the grade.
DE

Mountain climber
Tustin, Calif.
Dec 23, 2004 - 11:19am PT
Although not 5.8 there are a couple of pitches on the E. Face of Whitney that have big air. Also the bombay chimney on the N. Chim. of Castleton is airy.
bulgingpuke

Trad climber
cayucos california
Dec 23, 2004 - 11:23am PT
yes bilbo that 5.7 on the Monkey is awsome.

But one of the most awkwark 5.8's is gotta be the 3rd pitch of The South Face of the column. I tried to think hard to remember one off of other routes that i have done but this one really hits the spot AWKYward

-ty
Ksolem

Trad climber
LA, Ca
Dec 23, 2004 - 11:27am PT
Tahquitz Rock, Mechanics Route.
poser

Trad climber
emporium, pa
Dec 23, 2004 - 01:48pm PT
Yeah, that pitch on the Column was interesting with trail running shoes and a fat rack. I'm glad to hear someone else say that cause I thought I was just being soft. The chimney on NE butress of Higher Cathedral is a classic pitch on a classic route.
dufas

Trad climber
san francisco
Dec 23, 2004 - 03:03pm PT
the moves through the roof on little john right is nice for 5.8. I saw a guy with an artificial leg do it on lead once, blew me away and made me realize what a puss I am.
Matt

Trad climber
San Francisco
Dec 23, 2004 - 06:23pm PT
i first led little john right when i was only leading up to about 5.9 and as we returned to the base of the climb, the group of people whose leader was struggling on the adjacent route (a wide-ish 5.9) asked me if what we'd just done was "only 5.8"...


my response:
"i have no idea what 5.8 is- what the hell does '5.8' mean anyway?"


other 5.8 pitches:
the 1st pitch of the EB of LCR
the Robbins traverse on the RNWF of HD
the half dollar pitch on FB (w/ nice rope drag potential)


edit-
as for the 5.8s (mentioned above) at the gunks, i have only done a couple of those, but (while leading the last pitch of the son of easy o) i remember thinking, "wow, i don't think i have ever placed gear on anything this steep before". just then my partner asked if it was hard and if i thought she'd be ok on such steep moves, so i cut my feet and hung from one hand and glory clipped, smiled at her and told her she'd be just fine- jug haul city baby, very cool, you cannot believe you are climbing 5.8!
dufas

Trad climber
san francisco
Dec 23, 2004 - 06:42pm PT
I felt the same way doing the final pitch of Bonnie's Roof "direct", maybe something like 40 ft through 3 big roofs maybe? incredibly steep and positive
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Dec 23, 2004 - 06:53pm PT
Anything at Granite Mountain, Arizona. The only time I was there, like 50 years ago, everthing was rated 5.8, even 5.10 routes.

JL
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Dec 23, 2004 - 07:37pm PT
The last pitch of Ancient Art, Fisher Towers.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Dec 23, 2004 - 11:53pm PT
p4 of Braille Book (Upper Cathedral Rock, Yosemite Valley) - certainly got my attention
p1 of Notably Knobular (Cascade Falls, Yosemite Valley) - I will never do it again
p2 of Golden Needles (Cascade Falls, Left, Yosemite Valley) - less out there then it appears
p2 of Ejesta (Reed's Pinnacle, Yosemite Valley) - hanging it out on the traverse!
p4 of Selanginella (Yosemite Falls West, Yosemite Valley) - fun exposed traverse
p2 of R.C.A. (DAFF, Tuolumne Meadows) - bring some tri-cams along
p1 of Indirect Traverse (The Monolith, Pinnacles) - run it out to a spinner, ugh.
p2 of Drunkard's Delight (Trapps, 'Gunks) - great roof
p2 of Arrow (Trapps, 'Gunks) - thin face moves to exit
Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope (CCK, Traps, 'Gunks) - wonderful throughout
p6 of Moby Grape (Cannon Mountain) - the freaky Finger of Fate pitch
John Vawter

Social climber
San Diego
Dec 24, 2004 - 09:26am PT
The Step at Tahquitz used to be rated 5.8, now .10a. Ditto for The Swallow. Right Ski Track was 5.8 back in the day, but that awful width will make you pant hard.

JV
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Dec 24, 2004 - 09:45am PT
Pitch 9 of Spitagoras in the Tre Cime de Lavaredo area of the Dolomites (Italy). Almost and entire 50m ropelength of overhanging jugs with only two bolts for protection. You are right on the arete with about 1200' of nothing below you.

Bruce
Sewellymon

Social climber
.....in a single wide......
Dec 24, 2004 - 10:14am PT
nerve wrack point's 1st pitch. the bacher -yerian of the 60's

didn't we also call Pywiack's The Dyke 5.8 back in the day?
Brutus of Wyde

climber
Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
Dec 24, 2004 - 11:01am PT
My personal favorite is Elevator Shaft on Cookie.

Brutus
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Dec 24, 2004 - 01:24pm PT
Thought of another one.
Fantasia @ Lover's Leap. Is that still rated 5.8?
I can remember climbing it when it was at my limit ('75?) slinging rounded knobs, channeling the Robins description from advanced Rockcraft, and feeling all the time that I certainly would die.
Probably still a good adventure.
Isn't the traverse pitch on the Casual route on the diamond of long's Peak 5.8? People have died and become disfigured (different groups) on that one, as I was all too aware when I lead it as a youth.

Dropping down a notch or so, Upper slot on the Nautilus @ Vedauwoo is a 7+ (used to be 6) that has shut down a number of "5.10 leaders." Not out there, though, just technical.
malabarista

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Dec 24, 2004 - 01:41pm PT
That 5.8 pitch on E. Butt of El Cap which is on the cover of the supertopo free climbs book is pretty out there.

The 4th pitch of Braille Book is really hard for the 5.8 grade. I had just done the climb for the first time this summer and was chatting with Bridwell in camp IV. He said "Is that still 5.8?" and that Robbins was pissed at him when he put it up for undergrading it.
coiler

Trad climber
yosemite
Dec 25, 2004 - 01:30pm PT
"Skyrocket" at lovers' leap- so runout you can't even see the last tied off knob when you're about 1/2 the way up. Lot's of mantles between you and the belay. Halfway up thinking to myself,"maybe this wasn't such a good idea." Along the same lines is the route "wild Turkey" on the lower butress. Puts the spice into life. At lover's leap any 5.8r will make you want a hug from your mommy.
shakey legs

Trad climber
san diego ca
Dec 25, 2004 - 09:10pm PT
How about the guillotine at suicide the pucker factor makes it worthwhile.
dirtineye

climber
Dec 26, 2004 - 05:48pm PT
That's interesting that you (and a lot of others, I'm an oddball) think that the crescent pitch of the OR is "out there". To me it is the most protectable and sustained pitch of the OR, maybe the neatest pitch, maybe the most interesting, but not anything to fret over.

P1, or that stupid traverse that is a pretty much a sidewalk with a lot of exposure, but has crap for solid placements are more bothersome in my book, even though they are not 5.8, hell the traverse might be 5.2, I didn't look in a book, but I'm guessing maybe 5.2 or 3. Since nearly every spot for gear seemed incapable of holding a fall, and if the second did fall, you'd have a hard time getting them back on route even if the pro held, that's the pitch that I'd be worried about taking someone who might get rattled over.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Dec 26, 2004 - 08:55pm PT
If you want "out there", there is only one:

Top pitch of Modern Times at the Gunks. Unbelievable that this is only 5.8!
clustiere

Trad climber
running springs, ca
Dec 27, 2004 - 06:47pm PT
Magnolia Thunderpussy III 5.8-, Granite Mountain (wink wink). This place is stout, the new guides have been altered from their original grades, and they are still stiff!!!!!!!!!!!
Greg Barnes

climber
Dec 27, 2004 - 11:12pm PT
Pitch 5 of Sands of Time, Cal Dome
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Dec 28, 2004 - 01:27pm PT
how about a 5.7 ("a 5.10 climber's 5.7 with a shitty quarter inch bolt and questionable anchor above")...
at the Needles on theMagician: Poof, 5.7, p2 and p3 are very out there... especially the belay behind the flakes at the top of p2... Steve had a proud lead on this with me belaying and chanting over and over: "don't slip, don't slip, please, please, please Steve don't slip"... I wasn't happy to hear the off-route Steve wonder out loud "gee, this flake might blow if I weight it, well let's see, watch me Ed", he didn't know how well I was watching...
dmitry

Trad climber
Chita, Russia
Jan 7, 2005 - 03:26pm PT
Last pitch of Modern Times at the Trapps, Gunks
The traversing (3rd) pitch of Super Slab in Eldo :)
TGT

Social climber
So Cal
Jan 7, 2005 - 03:41pm PT
Suprise, Suicide. Run it out 50-60 ft as much sideways as up, do the move, THEN get the only bolt, then run it out another 50-60 ft, (although progresively easier).

The Mechanics route is "out there" considering it was done in the 30's with hemp rope and deck shoes, but the crux of the really run section is 5.4-5.6. Just feels much worse looking down at all those chicken heads!

Even though it's only 5.4-5.6 or so the face pitch on W.P.O.D. has a similar feel. It looks like if you blow it you're taking a ride down a giant saw blade. Heard that one has more bolts now.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 7, 2005 - 06:15pm PT
E.C.Joe added ONE bolt to the last pitch... I did the climb last summer with Steve, missed the 5.8 move on the second pitch and did something one hell of a lot harder... but Steve cruised that part of the pitch using "Eddie logic".

A great climb!
Spinmaster K-Rove

Trad climber
Stuck Under the Kor Roof
Jan 8, 2005 - 04:30pm PT
"Magnolia Thunderpussy III 5.8-, Granite Mountain (wink wink). This place is stout, the new guides have been altered from their original grades, and they are still stiff!!!!!!!!!!! "


High desert in the house reprezent reprezent-zent!!
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jan 8, 2005 - 04:42pm PT
"Magnolia Thunderpussy III 5.8-, Granite Mountain (wink wink).
Naah, that's not stout, just full value =)
I once freesoloed this in Front of Jim Waugh, just weeks after his girlfriend had fallen off a cliff. I thought he would never forgive me. It seemed harder than I remembered, too! No move harder than (Vedauwoo) 5.8, though, and I'm sure it would take good pro!
-Caveat Emptor
Mike.

climber
Jan 8, 2005 - 05:56pm PT
How about that last pitch of Modern Times at the Gunks? (an original thought...) Love the sit-rest.

Isn't High Exposure really 5.8?


Agreed, Granite Mt has some jewels:

I third Magnolia TP - out there. The wifey fourths it. Bad man, Jay!

Beaver Cleaver Exit 5.8+. It would be like a reverse gillotine falling off that thing before the bolt. Thankfully the 10something crux is after that.

Bleak Streak 8+ - Heady and thin, with standard death-before-first-bolt AZ tactics

Gotta love those old AZ sandba, er, full value routes.

That silly Short but Sweet on the Y-Crack boulder (Pinnacle Peak) is one "brutal" grunt. Not "out there," but the last of a proud tradition of blatant sandbags. Ajax just smiled when I asked him about it.

Mickey Mantle, PinPk, always committing.


Whitney-Gillman Ridge on Cannon has a great, airy variation right of the arete.

P9 of South Seas (add A3)

Thank God Ledge pitch, RNWFHD

PS: Jay, I bet you're the only ST'er who's climbed with my man Dan M...unless the original Scary Larry is lurking. Cheers.



Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Jan 8, 2005 - 06:17pm PT
not quite on par with Valley cracks, but if you have a chance don't miss:

OUTERSPACE on Snowcreek wall in Leavenworth, Wa

the last 2 to 3 pitches on the upper headwall are 300 ft of perfect 5.8 hands with chickenheads for your feet. pure joy
Blowboarder

Boulder climber
Sandpoint, Idaho
Jan 8, 2005 - 06:34pm PT
Yeah, I was going to mention Outer Space but it didn't seem to fit the trend the thread was going, especially since the gear is bomber the whole headwall. The 5.7+ traverse pitch couple pitches lower is pretty full value though, specially if those flakes were to blow.

Still my favorite 5.8 climb ever though.
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Jan 8, 2005 - 07:24pm PT
I guess the name is more "out there" then the climb. the whole upper Snowcreek wall is kinda like being on the moon, biggest chickenheads ever...

what does "out there" mean anyway?
jclimb

Trad climber
Durango, Co
Jan 8, 2005 - 07:52pm PT
how about the last couple (maybe few) pitches of lucky streaks on fairview in the dark, snowing, no headlamp, and a crying girlfriend after being stuck behind slow parties all afternoon? then almost crawling off the side of the cliff trying to get off the dome in said conditions? that felt "out there".
Rhodo-Router

Trad climber
Otto, NC
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 8, 2005 - 08:08pm PT
I guess by out-there I was thinking of exposure, first. Hopefully the pro is sufficiently distant to enhance the feeling. Steep, exposed, airy-- you know. The kind of thing where you look around and think "man,this climbing stuff sure takes you to some rad places."
Pappy

Trad climber
Atlanta
Jan 8, 2005 - 08:17pm PT
To hearken back to the original post, the 5.8 pitch on New Diversions on W'sides in NC is a puzzle. We dumped our water before that, because we were almost up, and I then spent damn near two hours figuring the right way out of that dish protected by a 20 year old 1/4" bolt. Because of that, we wound up spending the night on the wall in late Sept. at 45 degrees with one fleece shirt between us and no water at a semi-hanging belay off another old bolt and a nut at the end of the so called Escape Ledge. I was pissed. I was more pissed the next morning when my partner's wife meets us at the top with fried egg sandwiches (I loathe eggs) and no f*#king water. Women.

But the best 5.8 I've done is the Big Step on the East Ridge of Temple in the Canadian Rockies in clunky Galabier boots and a snow storm. That may be my best pitch ever. I enjoyed the hell out of that. We barely beat another pair up to there and according to Yardman, who followed me, that watched me climb it and decided they had already had enough fun for that day.

You rock climbers just do not understand what real fun is.
dirtineye

Trad climber
the south
Jan 8, 2005 - 08:27pm PT
Rhodo, just where on the crescent pitch of the OR are you ever far from pro?

IT's not very tall and it would be hard to fall, (I'm poeteic tonight) but Comfortably Numb, 5.9 at Shyterock, Alabama has a section of 40-50 feet or so, where the only good pro is a little more than halfway up. At this point you (well I did anyway) realize that you just pro the crap out of the pigeon shyte rest ledge (pun intended) since the rest of the placements all suck just like the ones below, and head for the top. The climb is only 90 or 100 feet but the exposure is good and you can look out over the whole valley (sand rock is on top of an apalachian foothill).

Anyway it doesn't get led much, which is a pity. The bottom half is a little run out too, so people top rope. Sometimes folks gather to watch if someone leads it.
Tom Bruskotter

Trad climber
Seattle
Jan 12, 2005 - 02:57pm PT
Red Bullet pitch on Magic Mushroom. Step out of aiders after A3 for sweet finger locks. Climb the ever widening crack using all kinds of jams. Leave your #4 Camalot as you chicken wing, then chimney to a tiny stance 2000' off the deck. Sweet!
DavisGunkie

Trad climber
Republic of Davis
Jan 12, 2005 - 03:47pm PT
basically any 5.8 at the gunks will have the exposure...add thin slabs direct to the list...while technically i think 5.7+ its an out there traverse with 3 crappy pins to protect yourself to a sit down rest.


some say the dangler at the gunks is also 5.8+

High E is way overrated.
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jan 13, 2005 - 04:21pm PT
"PS: Jay, I bet you're the only ST'er who's climbed with my man Dan M...unless the original Scary Larry is lurking. Cheers. "

Could be, probably the only other one with Scary Larry, you don't have any contact info for him, do you? I have a ten year old address from the east.
The first time I climbed with Larry we did a new route in Sedona, and he insisted that when I topped out on the last pitch I yell "Legalize it! shoplift Goldwaters!" -what the hell! on the way down we dropped the drill holder and had to drill a 3/4" hole with just a bit and hammer.
Another time Larry broke his pelvis following me on the last pitch of the LA Chimney, never slowed him down a bit.
We had a Larry party at Paradise Forks once to celebrate Larry's birthday we all wore horn rimmed glasses with tape on them and called each other "Larry". He was only mildly amused.
-Larry from (now) Reno, did you ever meet this Larry? he was originally from Meteetse, Wyo. About our age, etc.
atchafalaya

Trad climber
California
Jan 13, 2005 - 04:41pm PT
I have always associated an "out there" pitch with being desperate. Like eyes wide, tunnel vision, quit breathing, leg shaking, but still going up, kinda climbing...

Granite mountain has several great "out there" 5.8s. Probably because I learned to climb there, and frequently epic'd on pitches over my head.

Bleak Streak, rated 5.7+ at the time i lead it was definately out there...
Coatimundi Whiteout 5.8+ was another, probably cause we climbed it in a snowstorm on a sunny day.
The third pitch of Kingpin (5.9) is one of the most "out there" pitches on Granite Mountain or anywhere I have climbed. If you have done it, then you know why...
Magnolia TP never seemed out there because it was so secure that it seemed impossible to fall out of, stem the whole way to a no-hands rest under the roof, followed by sinker jams. Protection the entire way.

Another out there arizona 5.8 would be The Mace in Sedona. Really high value for 5.8...
Mike.

climber
Jan 13, 2005 - 04:52pm PT
"Coatimundi Whiteout 5.8+"

Huh? 5.11. Coatamundi Whimpout is 5.8 (Coatamundi to Candyland exit right).

Agreed, GM is one heady place. Very "trad."
atchafalaya

Trad climber
California
Jan 13, 2005 - 05:09pm PT
Yea Mike, we whimped out in the snowstorm, climbed the 5.8 pitches, up to the roof where we rapped Waterstreak. Which reminds me, ever climbed Cinnamon Girl? I was lucky enough to watch a couple leaders whimper on that, from a distance. Sounded like out there 5.8 from the moans and wails the leaders were making.
Mike.

climber
Jan 13, 2005 - 05:16pm PT
Right on, Atch.

I recall getting on CG after my mentor backed off something earlier that day. It looked like a somewhat dangerous route...and not too easy. Over my head. PS: Woo, man CG (p1) is eight PLUS to 5.9 in the '82 GM guide...watch out for the pluses in AZ!

I dug that place. Other stuff seems tame when you cut teeth there. I gotta remark again about those exits off the Flying Buttress - you must've done High Ex...freaking intimidating as 5.6 gets. That Beaver Cleaver was a step up from that - doubt I'd do it today. HeadEEE!
Elcapinyoazz

Mountain climber
Anchorage, Alaska
Jan 13, 2005 - 05:20pm PT
I don't recall exactly the rating, but the last pitch of Ancient Art is pretty "out there". Not run out or hard, but attention getting for sure.
atchafalaya

Trad climber
California
Jan 13, 2005 - 06:22pm PT
High Exposure Exit was great for testing your fledgling leader abilities. I led it a number of times. Friends of mine used to third class it, which I never had the sack for. Beaver Cleaver was a huge step up from High E, pucker factor of 10++

Is the 82 guide the Lovejoy guide, or the dark red cover with the climber above an agave freaking? I still have the old Granite Mountain Topo by Rand, which is similar to the El Capitan wall posters. I will have to pull it out of retirement tonight to relive the early days of terror.

5.8+ for CG???? Any route with a plus at GM meant prepare to die.

Cinnamon Girl had a well deserved reputation. I remember climbing Waterstreak, and having a leader on CG yell for me to look for the next 1/4 inch bolt which he could not see. He was at least 20+ feet above the second bolt. If I remember right, there were only three on the first pitch, and the climbing was loose flakes.

Mike.

climber
Jan 13, 2005 - 07:02pm PT
Egad, atch - glad I backed off that thing while I could!

I've got the Waugh guide on synthetic paper. Waterstreak must be newer; not in the book I have. Re-live indeed...I'm looking at the checkmarks in my book thinking "I did that?" How bout those face routes on the right? Bleak Streak 5.8 - LOL!

On the upper end of the scale, we used to gawk at Gunsmoke. 4" straight-up horiz crack...whoa. Maybe JL can fill us in on the FA of that. Has it been repeated? I'd bet not many times, if ever.

I imagine that wild-haired Leo character is still rope-soloing there. Ya know him? He was cool. Wailing up the parking area on his enduro...hair exploding everywhere. I've got a sweet shot of him on the last pitch of Reunion (he tagged up w/ us that day). Did you do that one? Just unrelenting! And beautiful.

Too bad they didn't give star ratings (or is it?)...it'd be a starry book fershure.

Went back up there to spread ashes of a fallen comrade a couple years ago. These guys all grew up there, maybe you knew em. "It's Prescott...like biscuit..."

Sorry about the drift, just revisiting the glory (read: too dumb to know the difference) days. I'm lost on memory lane...can't find my way home...
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jan 13, 2005 - 07:19pm PT
Mike, Gunsmoke has been done a few times that I know of. I did it with Manny Rangel and I heard that John(?) Byrne(the wired bliss guy) did it.
Beta-it's worse to follow than it is to lead.
You're right, though, Largo needs to tell us the story on that one.

In an effort to compensate for thread drift, I will go on record as saying I still think the last pitch of Ancient art is what this thread is all about.
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Jan 13, 2005 - 09:44pm PT
It was written: "On the upper end of the scale, we used to gawk at Gunsmoke. 4" straight-up horiz crack...whoa. Maybe JL can fill us in on the FA of that. Has it been repeated? I'd bet not many times, if ever."

Damn, I'd forgotten about that route, but it's all come back to me now.

We went to Granite Mt. to free Coatamundi Whiteout, which we thought was going to be horrendous, but turned out to be not so bad 5.11 but with scant pro (at least back then). I remember leading that had traverse getting out to the roof crack with almost nothing but a few tied off pins. We spotted the Gunsmoke arch on the way down the trail and went for it that day but ran out of light after getting up to that arch. We came back the next day but had problems because we only had a few friends and both Lynn Hill and I exhaused ourselves (smoked our guns) trying to hang onto that undercling and wiggle in Hexes. I ended up getting a good Friend out toward the end of the arch and just going for it--and the crux is a weird sequence at the very end. We had a third climber with us you popped (following) from the middle of the undercling and took a wicked sideways whipper.

That's a really stout lead, as I recall.

JL
Michelle

Boulder climber
below the spraydar
Jan 13, 2005 - 09:50pm PT
The Beautiful 10. easy chimney to weird ballet moves gaining a pointy pinnacle. More ballet moves and entering the hand crack is wild! amazing location too. alternately, the left side is spicey and involves praying the loose dirt clods don't break and crapping your pants, wishing you weren't soloing while at the same time thinking life couldn't get any freaking better than this, then onto the same pinnacle and hand crack. the best thing: the beer, uh, car, is parked not 100 feet away from the top out.
j_ung

Social climber
Charlotte, NC
Jan 14, 2005 - 07:01am PT
Air Show, Moore's Wall, NC

dirtineye

Trad climber
the south
Jan 14, 2005 - 08:39am PT
Sticking to 5.8, Mescaline Daydream at Talullah, GA, is a two pitcher that has a few 'interesting' moves and for a two pitch climb, there is good exposure at the crux of both pitches. This climb is a must do if you ever go there, but it's old school 5.8-- not modern day watered down 5.8.

Tallulah means something like, "terrible gorge", in the language of the natives who named it. The approach also has some 'interesting' moves, haha.
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Jan 14, 2005 - 09:15am PT
Having done most of the Gunks 5.8s mentioned, I have another East Coast climb that felt headier to me than any of the above. In fact, it's just one move, but what a move. The climb is "Three Birches" on Cathedral Ledges, in NH.

The last move on the last pitch of the climb is an awkward friction-ey mantle of a topout "protected" by small gear that almost certainly wouldn't keep you off the ledge 15 feet below your dangling behind, but would at least keep you from tumbling the additional few hundred feet of air whispering behind you. Other than that one wonderful/terrible move, the climb is not (IMO) worth doing.

GO
scottie_c

Trad climber
Burlington, VT
Jan 14, 2005 - 11:56am PT
the Northeast Ridge of Pinnacle Gully ( Mount Washington, NH ) has a 5.8R variation that will surely get your heart pumping -- a few hundred feet of air, damp, mossy edges, rusty pitons, huge fall potential, and full conditions in an alpine setting made this the most memorable 5.8 to date for me.

GO - I'd have to disagree, 3 birches is a great climb ( trick moves on both pitches )! especially when linked with the Book of Solemity . it provides an ascent of Cathedral Ledge that has fun and varied climbing on every pitch.
GOclimb

Trad climber
Boston, MA
Jan 14, 2005 - 12:14pm PT
Scottie, the first pitch "trick move", so far as I can tell, just involves resigning yourself to stick your hand into that slimy hole in the undercling, and refusing to allow your feet to cut loose from the glassine surface until you can get the good finger pocket. Not particularly pleasant, but clearly YMV.

GO
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jan 14, 2005 - 12:14pm PT
Back t o the Gunsmoke, subthread.
When we did it it was late enough chronologiclay that we had a more than adequate cam rack, which I largely burned through on the first half of the arch, subsequently running it out on the second half ( It was still like overhead pro, for me, though.)
Manny followed me wearing a big-brimmed cowboy hat. As he got past the mid point of the arch he went slower, obviously concerened, That's when I realized I should have place more pro on that part.
"Crank it Tex!" came a scream from below (the late Scotty Hynz, I believe)
Manny went for it, made some desperate moves,sketching in the sun, and then,( eerily similar to what John said,) took the swing of his life.
Fortunately Manny is a good sport and we are still friends.


onbelay_osu

Trad climber
Stillwater, OK
Jan 14, 2005 - 02:29pm PT
there is an insane 5.7 on upper mount scott in the wichitas called Mild and Wild. It is an ultra classic one pitch crack, only 50 feet, but it has a really technical lie back that is really commiting, and you are usually 5 feet from your last piece with a ledge about 15 feet below you. not to mention you are in a funky dihedral. I LOVE IT!
Mike.

climber
Jan 14, 2005 - 05:22pm PT
Ongoing Gunsmoke drift:

Thanks for the scoop, JL & J. I should have known better than to underestimate my brethren, J. Great tick! JL: Thanks for that bit of history. Cool to know the route name has a deeper connection than the wild-west roots of the Prescott area. Makes me wonder about the "Rawhide" variation...somebody forgot the tape - ?

Cheers y'all.
montgomery wick

Boulder climber
Baltoro Glacier, Pakistan
Jan 21, 2005 - 02:05pm PT
Thank God Ledge pitch...walk like a man
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Jan 21, 2005 - 02:25pm PT
For a slightly different "out there" experience, I recommend a route I route I did (yikes) forty years ago: The (now) regular route on the Needles Eye in the Needles, S.D.
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Jan 21, 2005 - 04:46pm PT
I'm going to have to agree with the Thank God Ledge traverse. I walked like a man, but my wife left her camelback on and fell right off. :( She was way too tired at that point...
Nibs

Trad climber
Humboldt, CA
Jan 21, 2005 - 04:53pm PT
OMG!!, Needles Eye! That's a winner! props for doing that one!
(rgold - thanks for posting the info on the Conns too)
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jan 21, 2005 - 05:14pm PT
Back when I lived in South Dakota, I used to look at the Needles Eye ... and it looked scary. Years later, at the height of his fame, Hot Henry told of following it, and made it sound scary too.
Josh Higgins

Trad climber
San Diego
Jan 21, 2005 - 08:03pm PT
I think one of the most intimidating looking climbs for the grade anywhere is Geronimo in J-Tree, until someone explains that you can just reach through to the top of the roof!
Jaybro

Social climber
The West
Jan 21, 2005 - 08:24pm PT
"For a slightly different "out there" experience, I recommend a route I route I did (yikes) forty years ago: The (now) regular route on the Needles Eye in the Needles, S.D."

No more entries, this one is it! in '83 I was climbing a lot, I did the Zodiac, my first wall as head nailer, I lead the Acid traverse on The last Unicorn, blah, blah,blah. I was never as scared as on the Needles Eye. Where else is the consequence of popping a tiny friable hold over ancient questionable fixed pro going to be a free fall to a cheese grater to a landing on a car in the parking lot?
dirtineye

Trad climber
the south
Jan 21, 2005 - 09:44pm PT
Speaking of the needles (SD), what's the best time of year to go there?
Marc from Quebec

Trad climber
Jan 24, 2005 - 02:14pm PT
Although only 5.7, the Whitney-Gilman ridge on Cannon, NH, is more out-there than any other route I've done... Exposed the whole way.
malabarista

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Jan 24, 2005 - 03:30pm PT
I forgot about the Thank God ledge pitch on rnwf. I didn't know anything about it when I lead that. And it starts out so easy. I was walking and yelled back to my partner "this is a piece of cake" or something like that, and he said "well, place some pro anyway". Then I got to the part that thins down and I was like "sh#t, dude, I might fall here, this is sketchy" as I walked across it fully upright. My partner whipped off it following. (He too tried to walk it too except he's about 6'5", which probably makes it even more off-balance).
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2013 - 03:27pm PT
Bump for good ol' days.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Jan 1, 2013 - 04:26pm PT
Quite a few years after I mentioned in this thread that the Needle's Eye provided an "out there" 5.8 experience, I got around to writing up my ascent with Don Storjohann. Most readers have seen it by now, but in case not, if you're interested, it's here: http://www.supertopo.com/tr/The-First-Ascent-of-the-Needles-Eye/t222n.html
MisterE

Social climber
Jan 1, 2013 - 04:38pm PT
My favorite although only 5.7, Panic Point, Monkeys Face, Smith Rocks Oregon. Climb out of the Monkeys mouth to massive exposure, classic.

Spot on, Bilbo!
turd

climber
Jan 1, 2013 - 04:47pm PT
Most out-there 5.8 pitch anywhere...

Anywhere?

http://www.supertopo.com/rock-climbing/Alaska-USA-Middle-Troll-South-Face
Rick Linkert

Trad climber
El Dorado Hills CA
Jan 1, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
Satan's Slab (Boulder) is a pretty wild 5.8 with some runouts

Arches Terrace (Yosemite) 2nd pitch holds your attention as well.
Hankster

Social climber
Golden, CO
Jan 1, 2013 - 05:35pm PT
Magnolia Thunderpussy, Granite Mt., AZ

I think they call that 8+.... bullshit! 5.10!!
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2013 - 05:44pm PT
Maybe not the most out there anywhere, hank, but how 'bout that Alice up in Eldo?
Chiloe

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jan 1, 2013 - 05:47pm PT
I donít have a photo of the 4th pitch of Knights Errant (5.8) in the Swell -- this one is looking down P2. But I was gripped leading P4 on fragile sandy holds, going farther and farther with no pro.



Late in the day, after we regained the canyon floor, we found that the routeís first ascentionist Paul Ross had been watching us through binoculars on P4. It seems that a previous party got off route in that spot (itís not obvious) and experienced a horror show on unprotected, terrible rock. Paul seemed surprised or relieved that we didnít.

Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jan 1, 2013 - 06:04pm PT
P7 Touchstone

I originally called it hard 7 but many others call it a 9.

First the right wall overhangs, then the left wall overhangs, but every time you reach up there is a good jam, and just enough footholds where you need them.
D Fred

Trad climber
san francisco, ca
Jan 1, 2013 - 08:39pm PT
I'd like to add this one to the list... Church Bowl Terrace. Not to be confused with the two other more popular climbs, Church Bowl Chimney or Bishop's Terrace. No, this was a brutal flared squeeze chimney that I've occasionally done after rappelling from Church Bowl CHimney... and it keeps me humble every time. I am too scared to try to lead it and am always thinking, "damn, this is 5.8?!?!?"

Another runner up... Harding's Chimney at Sugarloaf... 5.8 squeeze, run-out, another humbling old school 5.8.

I also am a little embarrassed to admit it, but that first pitch of Traveler's Buttress at Lover's Leap always makes me hesitate at the top through that damn bulge, still haven't found a way to do it without saying, "watch me, i think i'm gonna pitch."

My favorite 5.8 pitches?
p4 of Nutcracker... I know it's borderline cliche to mention it, but I do love that pitch, so varied from some friction moves to jamming and my favorite move on the whole route is pulling through that bulge using a downward hand jam to mantle on!

also p1 of one hand clapping, splitter twin hand cracks, awesome!

also that second-to-last pitch on sons of yesterday, the hero pitch with the laser cut perfect hand crack

cheers,
 doug

p.s. Ed, I definitely hear you on the stemming/chimney pitch of Braille Book. That was one of my first climbs in the valley and I remember I kept thinking, "thank god this isn't 5.9!"

D Fred

Trad climber
san francisco, ca
Jan 1, 2013 - 08:41pm PT
oh yeah... fire by trial, damn i sweated on that thing. pure 5.8 squeeze with nothing but featureless flaring sides to keep you honest.

... and bong's away at reeds!!! who could forget? another 5.8 with some wide/awkward stemming/squeeze experience
MisterE

Social climber
Jan 1, 2013 - 08:47pm PT
Didn't read the whole thread, but "Alice in Bucketland" is pretty wild:

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/alice-in-bucketland/105762483
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2013 - 09:12pm PT
Alice is indeed pretty wild.

Trial By Fire, on the other hand, may be hard, and awkward, but no low-angle squeeze trough that starts off the ground is making it onto MY out-there list.
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