Most out-there 5.8 pitch anywhere...


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Social climber a single wide......
Dec 24, 2004 - 01:14pm PT
nerve wrack point's 1st pitch. the bacher -yerian of the 60's

didn't we also call Pywiack's The Dyke 5.8 back in the day?
Brutus of Wyde

Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
Dec 24, 2004 - 02:01pm PT
My personal favorite is Elevator Shaft on Cookie.


Social climber
The West
Dec 24, 2004 - 04:24pm PT
Thought of another one.
Fantasia @ Lover's Leap. Is that still rated 5.8?
I can remember climbing it when it was at my limit ('75?) slinging rounded knobs, channeling the Robins description from advanced Rockcraft, and feeling all the time that I certainly would die.
Probably still a good adventure.
Isn't the traverse pitch on the Casual route on the diamond of long's Peak 5.8? People have died and become disfigured (different groups) on that one, as I was all too aware when I lead it as a youth.

Dropping down a notch or so, Upper slot on the Nautilus @ Vedauwoo is a 7+ (used to be 6) that has shut down a number of "5.10 leaders." Not out there, though, just technical.

Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
Dec 24, 2004 - 04:41pm PT
That 5.8 pitch on E. Butt of El Cap which is on the cover of the supertopo free climbs book is pretty out there.

The 4th pitch of Braille Book is really hard for the 5.8 grade. I had just done the climb for the first time this summer and was chatting with Bridwell in camp IV. He said "Is that still 5.8?" and that Robbins was pissed at him when he put it up for undergrading it.

Trad climber
Dec 25, 2004 - 04:30pm PT
"Skyrocket" at lovers' leap- so runout you can't even see the last tied off knob when you're about 1/2 the way up. Lot's of mantles between you and the belay. Halfway up thinking to myself,"maybe this wasn't such a good idea." Along the same lines is the route "wild Turkey" on the lower butress. Puts the spice into life. At lover's leap any 5.8r will make you want a hug from your mommy.
shakey legs

Trad climber
san diego ca
Dec 26, 2004 - 12:10am PT
How about the guillotine at suicide the pucker factor makes it worthwhile.

Dec 26, 2004 - 08:48pm PT
That's interesting that you (and a lot of others, I'm an oddball) think that the crescent pitch of the OR is "out there". To me it is the most protectable and sustained pitch of the OR, maybe the neatest pitch, maybe the most interesting, but not anything to fret over.

P1, or that stupid traverse that is a pretty much a sidewalk with a lot of exposure, but has crap for solid placements are more bothersome in my book, even though they are not 5.8, hell the traverse might be 5.2, I didn't look in a book, but I'm guessing maybe 5.2 or 3. Since nearly every spot for gear seemed incapable of holding a fall, and if the second did fall, you'd have a hard time getting them back on route even if the pro held, that's the pitch that I'd be worried about taking someone who might get rattled over.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Dec 26, 2004 - 11:55pm PT
If you want "out there", there is only one:

Top pitch of Modern Times at the Gunks. Unbelievable that this is only 5.8!

Trad climber
running springs, ca
Dec 27, 2004 - 09:47pm PT
Magnolia Thunderpussy III 5.8-, Granite Mountain (wink wink). This place is stout, the new guides have been altered from their original grades, and they are still stiff!!!!!!!!!!!
Greg Barnes

Dec 28, 2004 - 02:12am PT
Pitch 5 of Sands of Time, Cal Dome
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Dec 28, 2004 - 04:27pm PT
how about a 5.7 ("a 5.10 climber's 5.7 with a shitty quarter inch bolt and questionable anchor above")...
at the Needles on theMagician: Poof, 5.7, p2 and p3 are very out there... especially the belay behind the flakes at the top of p2... Steve had a proud lead on this with me belaying and chanting over and over: "don't slip, don't slip, please, please, please Steve don't slip"... I wasn't happy to hear the off-route Steve wonder out loud "gee, this flake might blow if I weight it, well let's see, watch me Ed", he didn't know how well I was watching...

Trad climber
Chita, Russia
Jan 7, 2005 - 06:26pm PT
Last pitch of Modern Times at the Trapps, Gunks
The traversing (3rd) pitch of Super Slab in Eldo :)

Social climber
So Cal
Jan 7, 2005 - 06:41pm PT
Suprise, Suicide. Run it out 50-60 ft as much sideways as up, do the move, THEN get the only bolt, then run it out another 50-60 ft, (although progresively easier).

The Mechanics route is "out there" considering it was done in the 30's with hemp rope and deck shoes, but the crux of the really run section is 5.4-5.6. Just feels much worse looking down at all those chicken heads!

Even though it's only 5.4-5.6 or so the face pitch on W.P.O.D. has a similar feel. It looks like if you blow it you're taking a ride down a giant saw blade. Heard that one has more bolts now.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jan 7, 2005 - 09:15pm PT
E.C.Joe added ONE bolt to the last pitch... I did the climb last summer with Steve, missed the 5.8 move on the second pitch and did something one hell of a lot harder... but Steve cruised that part of the pitch using "Eddie logic".

A great climb!
Spinmaster K-Rove

Trad climber
Stuck Under the Kor Roof
Jan 8, 2005 - 07:30pm PT
"Magnolia Thunderpussy III 5.8-, Granite Mountain (wink wink). This place is stout, the new guides have been altered from their original grades, and they are still stiff!!!!!!!!!!! "

High desert in the house reprezent reprezent-zent!!

Social climber
The West
Jan 8, 2005 - 07:42pm PT
"Magnolia Thunderpussy III 5.8-, Granite Mountain (wink wink).
Naah, that's not stout, just full value =)
I once freesoloed this in Front of Jim Waugh, just weeks after his girlfriend had fallen off a cliff. I thought he would never forgive me. It seemed harder than I remembered, too! No move harder than (Vedauwoo) 5.8, though, and I'm sure it would take good pro!
-Caveat Emptor

Jan 8, 2005 - 08:56pm PT
How about that last pitch of Modern Times at the Gunks? (an original thought...) Love the sit-rest.

Isn't High Exposure really 5.8?

Agreed, Granite Mt has some jewels:

I third Magnolia TP - out there. The wifey fourths it. Bad man, Jay!

Beaver Cleaver Exit 5.8+. It would be like a reverse gillotine falling off that thing before the bolt. Thankfully the 10something crux is after that.

Bleak Streak 8+ - Heady and thin, with standard death-before-first-bolt AZ tactics

Gotta love those old AZ sandba, er, full value routes.

That silly Short but Sweet on the Y-Crack boulder (Pinnacle Peak) is one "brutal" grunt. Not "out there," but the last of a proud tradition of blatant sandbags. Ajax just smiled when I asked him about it.

Mickey Mantle, PinPk, always committing.

Whitney-Gillman Ridge on Cannon has a great, airy variation right of the arete.

P9 of South Seas (add A3)

Thank God Ledge pitch, RNWFHD

PS: Jay, I bet you're the only ST'er who's climbed with my man Dan M...unless the original Scary Larry is lurking. Cheers.


Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Jan 8, 2005 - 09:17pm PT
not quite on par with Valley cracks, but if you have a chance don't miss:

OUTERSPACE on Snowcreek wall in Leavenworth, Wa

the last 2 to 3 pitches on the upper headwall are 300 ft of perfect 5.8 hands with chickenheads for your feet. pure joy

Boulder climber
Sandpoint, Idaho
Jan 8, 2005 - 09:34pm PT
Yeah, I was going to mention Outer Space but it didn't seem to fit the trend the thread was going, especially since the gear is bomber the whole headwall. The 5.7+ traverse pitch couple pitches lower is pretty full value though, specially if those flakes were to blow.

Still my favorite 5.8 climb ever though.

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Jan 8, 2005 - 10:24pm PT
I guess the name is more "out there" then the climb. the whole upper Snowcreek wall is kinda like being on the moon, biggest chickenheads ever...

what does "out there" mean anyway?
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