Most out-there 5.8 pitch anywhere...


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Social climber
Golden, CO
Jan 1, 2013 - 08:35pm PT
Magnolia Thunderpussy, Granite Mt., AZ

I think they call that 8+.... bullshit! 5.10!!

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2013 - 08:44pm PT
Maybe not the most out there anywhere, hank, but how 'bout that Alice up in Eldo?

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Jan 1, 2013 - 08:47pm PT
I donít have a photo of the 4th pitch of Knights Errant (5.8) in the Swell -- this one is looking down P2. But I was gripped leading P4 on fragile sandy holds, going farther and farther with no pro.

Late in the day, after we regained the canyon floor, we found that the routeís first ascentionist Paul Ross had been watching us through binoculars on P4. It seems that a previous party got off route in that spot (itís not obvious) and experienced a horror show on unprotected, terrible rock. Paul seemed surprised or relieved that we didnít.

Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Jan 1, 2013 - 09:04pm PT
P7 Touchstone

I originally called it hard 7 but many others call it a 9.

First the right wall overhangs, then the left wall overhangs, but every time you reach up there is a good jam, and just enough footholds where you need them.
D Fred

Trad climber
san francisco, ca
Jan 1, 2013 - 11:39pm PT
I'd like to add this one to the list... Church Bowl Terrace. Not to be confused with the two other more popular climbs, Church Bowl Chimney or Bishop's Terrace. No, this was a brutal flared squeeze chimney that I've occasionally done after rappelling from Church Bowl CHimney... and it keeps me humble every time. I am too scared to try to lead it and am always thinking, "damn, this is 5.8?!?!?"

Another runner up... Harding's Chimney at Sugarloaf... 5.8 squeeze, run-out, another humbling old school 5.8.

I also am a little embarrassed to admit it, but that first pitch of Traveler's Buttress at Lover's Leap always makes me hesitate at the top through that damn bulge, still haven't found a way to do it without saying, "watch me, i think i'm gonna pitch."

My favorite 5.8 pitches?
p4 of Nutcracker... I know it's borderline cliche to mention it, but I do love that pitch, so varied from some friction moves to jamming and my favorite move on the whole route is pulling through that bulge using a downward hand jam to mantle on!

also p1 of one hand clapping, splitter twin hand cracks, awesome!

also that second-to-last pitch on sons of yesterday, the hero pitch with the laser cut perfect hand crack


p.s. Ed, I definitely hear you on the stemming/chimney pitch of Braille Book. That was one of my first climbs in the valley and I remember I kept thinking, "thank god this isn't 5.9!"

D Fred

Trad climber
san francisco, ca
Jan 1, 2013 - 11:41pm PT
oh yeah... fire by trial, damn i sweated on that thing. pure 5.8 squeeze with nothing but featureless flaring sides to keep you honest.

... and bong's away at reeds!!! who could forget? another 5.8 with some wide/awkward stemming/squeeze experience

Social climber
Jan 1, 2013 - 11:47pm PT
Didn't read the whole thread, but "Alice in Bucketland" is pretty wild:

Gym climber
sawatch choss
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 2, 2013 - 12:12am PT
Alice is indeed pretty wild.

Trial By Fire, on the other hand, may be hard, and awkward, but no low-angle squeeze trough that starts off the ground is making it onto MY out-there list.
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