Hankster
Social climber
Golden, CO
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Magnolia Thunderpussy, Granite Mt., AZ
I think they call that 8+.... bullshit! 5.10!!
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2013 - 05:44pm PT
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Maybe not the most out there anywhere, hank, but how 'bout that Alice up in Eldo?
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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P7 Touchstone
I originally called it hard 7 but many others call it a 9.
First the right wall overhangs, then the left wall overhangs, but every time you reach up there is a good jam, and just enough footholds where you need them.
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D Fred
Trad climber
san francisco, ca
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I'd like to add this one to the list... Church Bowl Terrace. Not to be confused with the two other more popular climbs, Church Bowl Chimney or Bishop's Terrace. No, this was a brutal flared squeeze chimney that I've occasionally done after rappelling from Church Bowl CHimney... and it keeps me humble every time. I am too scared to try to lead it and am always thinking, "damn, this is 5.8?!?!?"
Another runner up... Harding's Chimney at Sugarloaf... 5.8 squeeze, run-out, another humbling old school 5.8.
I also am a little embarrassed to admit it, but that first pitch of Traveler's Buttress at Lover's Leap always makes me hesitate at the top through that damn bulge, still haven't found a way to do it without saying, "watch me, i think i'm gonna pitch."
My favorite 5.8 pitches?
p4 of Nutcracker... I know it's borderline cliche to mention it, but I do love that pitch, so varied from some friction moves to jamming and my favorite move on the whole route is pulling through that bulge using a downward hand jam to mantle on!
also p1 of one hand clapping, splitter twin hand cracks, awesome!
also that second-to-last pitch on sons of yesterday, the hero pitch with the laser cut perfect hand crack
cheers,
 doug
p.s. Ed, I definitely hear you on the stemming/chimney pitch of Braille Book. That was one of my first climbs in the valley and I remember I kept thinking, "thank god this isn't 5.9!"
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D Fred
Trad climber
san francisco, ca
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oh yeah... fire by trial, damn i sweated on that thing. pure 5.8 squeeze with nothing but featureless flaring sides to keep you honest.
... and bong's away at reeds!!! who could forget? another 5.8 with some wide/awkward stemming/squeeze experience
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2013 - 09:12pm PT
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Alice is indeed pretty wild.
Trial By Fire, on the other hand, may be hard, and awkward, but no low-angle squeeze trough that starts off the ground is making it onto MY out-there list.
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