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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Oct 13, 2007 - 05:56pm PT
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Hey John Bald- did you jump out of Redding?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Oct 14, 2007 - 12:24am PT
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John,
What's the ethic then, with so few climbers, it seems to have retained a ground up, and also a very few bolts policy?
M
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john bald
climber
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Oct 15, 2007 - 08:24pm PT
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For ontheedge...I was a RDD jumper from "78 to early "90's.
Dear munge......cannot comment on the latest developments at the Crags, as I left the area about 15 years ago. The beauty of the crags is that you must be comfortable in runnin' it to your next pro.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Oct 15, 2007 - 08:39pm PT
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John Bald, I must have just missed you at RDD- I was there from 95-99. I thought your name sounded familiar. Every time I would go climbing the guys would tell me that John Bald had worked there and climbed a lot. I would cruise up to the crags sometimes on days off. The place has a mysterious feel. I found a topo of a new route I helped out with on Castle Dome and will post it soon.
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Spencer Adkisson
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Oct 15, 2007 - 09:14pm PT
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The actual Crags are not in Castle Crags State Park, it is a wilderness area, under the administration of the U.S. Forest Service (Shasts-Trinity National Forest). So, you cannot use a power drill, or ride a bike on the trails, but you can use a hammer drill.
Having said that, the ethic is (mostly) for as much natural gear as possible, including sections of substantial run-out. Many routes have gone in like this:
Climb some choss-filled gully or other established route, set some freaky rappell, rap down and drill a bolted anchor. Rap off the anchor, TR the route, and figure out where the gear is, and where the best place for a bolt (if any) would be. Get it done. Climb and be merry.
This method is just one of a bunch of possible scenarios, including ground-up trad FA's. But, whatever the M.O. some really high quality routes have gone up in as good a style as possible. Hats off to Ian, Weber, and Styles for making it happen out there. Good job guys!
Hope that helps. The ethis is: Do it right, leave as little impact as possible, and don't break any laws. Sounds pretty good to me.
*I wouldn't worry about the choss so much though, the approaches, and lack of water, and rattlesnakes will keep most sane people away.*
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2008 - 02:07am PT
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The wife and I were up in the Shasta area yesterday and today. That place is amazing. We stop at the crags this trip, but thought I'd throw some photos up here, for lack of a better place.
(All © Jerry Dodrill Photography)
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