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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 10, 2007 - 05:48pm PT
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Took a little solo photo trip last week. Beautiful park this time of year...
River is going off! -color wise.
Some aerials from October '98. Lots more snow than Oct. this year!
Must be some FA potential up there somewhere.... Only thing I've climbed here was Cosmic Wall, but I'll have to get back soon!
Let's see your pix. Hear stories...
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Oct 10, 2007 - 05:49pm PT
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Nice Jerry! Most of that rock is untapped...
gimme a shout next time you are in the area, the Crags are only about an hour from my house. Cheers.
Recent 5.13a(r) Trad route put up in the park:
http://www.shastabasecamp.com/news.html
This is a website by a local guy who's probly the most active putting up new routes in the park:
http://www.alpineaddict.com/
went exploring for some alpine ice during a cold snap last winter, found a short piller but basically got skunked...I know there is some out there...
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Gene
climber
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Oct 10, 2007 - 05:50pm PT
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Shasta looks naked.
Great pictures.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2007 - 05:52pm PT
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Great Lambone- it's on!
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crøtch
climber
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Oct 10, 2007 - 06:34pm PT
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Great photos once again, Jerry. I particularly like 1 and 3.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Oct 10, 2007 - 06:47pm PT
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I helped out with putting up a route on the east face of castle dome. I wasn't there when it was finished, but we did some fairly good, hard climbing on the pitches I was involved with. I think it ended up being in the 11 c/d range. There's potential there, mostly on the faces where the rock is more solid. The cracks can be pretty crumbly. I'll look for some pictures.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2007 - 07:12pm PT
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Here's another fishing one for you Jody.
That third one above is my favorite. Working on a print of it.
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billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
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Oct 10, 2007 - 07:40pm PT
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Hey Lambone--
That's the same site twice.
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Oct 10, 2007 - 08:14pm PT
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I love Castle Crags....Cosmic Wall is a cool one! Haven't been for a few years but some time back, one of my ex girlfriends (Helga!) and I climbed the east face of Castle Dome..it was long, and it was hot, we ran out of water on the second pitch and took a brief nap in a small alcove out of the sun. We thought of bailig but decided to continue. Made it past the two 10+ roof sections (Helga leading of course!)and got about a pitch and a half from the summit and I slipped off a foot hold but held on and dislocated my shoulder. Managed to relocate it and then climbed the remained 5.9 with 1+ arms...on the hike down, we were so thirsty that we started jogging and it was then that Helga turned her ankle but good and almost rolled off the trail at an exposed section...quite an adventure, that dislocating shoulder has been an ongoing concern, failed surgery etc...Jerry, Great Pictures! This thread is great!
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 10, 2007 - 08:29pm PT
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Try this link: http://www.alpineaddict.com/
Good story, Inner City.
My Cosmic Wall trip was funny. Went up there with Justin Black (mountain light). He was a newbie leader, psyched for his longest climb yet. We got to the base and realized I'd forgotten my climbing shoes, so he got to lead the whole thing. The view at the top is amazing.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Oct 10, 2007 - 08:37pm PT
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long hike, when it was hot, for a couple short trailside routes for me.
awesome potential for new routing, but just the wrong direction at the wrong time of year for me usually.
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Spencer Adkisson
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Oct 10, 2007 - 08:47pm PT
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The Crags have been getting some well-deserved attention lately.
Here is a shot of a local hard-man Steve Weber gettin' busy on "Impeach the President" 5.10c. One of many new routes in the Crags.
Anybody who is interested should go to, or call the Shasta Basecamp, and talk to Styles. He'll set ya straight.
Nice one Jerry, Ian is super motivated. He, Webber, Styles, and Carr are making it happen up in there.
P.S. Lambone, there is some great ice that forms around the Crags from time-to-time. Castle Lake sometimes gets it, and the north side of the Crags, out of Railroad Park gets it. I've been eyeing a sick long couloir route in the Crags for a long time, but it rarely forms, and isn't in for very long. But one of there days...
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wootles
climber
I've moved
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Oct 10, 2007 - 09:28pm PT
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Nice, Jerry. Real nice.
My friggin' major league stressed out mind is diggin' the photo threads.
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Misha
Trad climber
Woodside, CA
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Oct 10, 2007 - 09:30pm PT
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Awesome photos (as usual), Jerry! Cosmic Wall rocks!!
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ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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Oct 10, 2007 - 09:53pm PT
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For a couple of summers the Crags was the home stompin grounds, there were few other climbers and alot of rock to explore. Did many a f.a. way back in ,some awesome, some a little so-so due to the bottoming nature of many of the cracks there. An interesting note is that at the base of one of the bigger walls on the south side was a bolt, not just any bolt...but a 1/4 buttonhead with a loop of plumbers tape as the hanger...serious.
I miss that place and need to get back to some unfinished business. There is much untouched rock and it takes more than a gym climber to get into it. Thanks for bringing back fond memories.
S.
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426
Sport climber
Buzzard Point, TN
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Oct 10, 2007 - 09:59pm PT
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sweet stuff
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Spencer Adkisson
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Oct 11, 2007 - 02:56am PT
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Ok, while it is important to recognize what is currently being done in the Crags ("Craigs" for fossils like Blinny (love ya!)). It is also important to recognize the accomplishments of those who are no longer with us. I am speaking primarily of the late-great, Reid "Commander" Sanders. Reid was an incredible guy. Seriously. He guided on Mt. Shasta for Shasta Mountain Guides for years. That's where I met him. But he also guided Yurt supported backcountry ski trips in Hellroaring Canyon of the Centennial Mountains of Montana. He and his wife, Kelly, owned the Free-Heel and Wheel, a ski/bike shop in West Yellowstone.
Here is a picture of the man in action belaying my other buddy Geoff at 8 Mile Boulders on the flanks of Mt. Shasta.
Reid was super-motivated, as are alot of the Mt. Shasta folk. His burning desire to climb and explore enlisted the talents of many Shastafarians, and his routes are legendary. Styles, Webber, or Chris will have to weigh in on the when, where and how's of Reid's routes (whenever their ears start burning). But one thing is for sure, Reid was a Champ.
First of all, he was a stellar guide.
Here he is leading the charge to the summit of Mt. Shasta after completing the Holtum-Bolam route.
They didn't call him "Commander Sanders" for nothing. He wrote the textbook on Jedi Mind Tricks, as it applies to guiding. I view myself as very fortunate to have had Reid as a friend, roommate, and mentor.
And the clients loved him! Here he is in the red jacket, cooking dinner at basecamp on the Holtum-Bolam Route. Good times...
Here he is chillin' out with "Da-Guides". Notice that indominable smile. It was always there. Wheither topping out a route, swilling a beer and shooting the breeze, or climbing your ass into the ground, it was always there.
Reid pushed the development of climbing in Castle Crags. He established such routes as: The "Majic Rib", and "She's Got Legs" in the Majic Gully of Castle Crags State Park. Just before Reid was tragically killed, along with his childhood friend Aaron Martin, in a skiing accident on Mt St. Elias, he was working on an A3+ headwall finish to one of his routes in the Crags. To this date the route remains unfinished, and less than a handfull of people even know where to begin. In Reid's memory, the route will be finished by his close friends, and new routes will go up in the Crags. It is already happening.
Is there potential for new routes and first ascents?
You Betcha, I'm lookin' right at 'em:
But you had better believe that I don't rope-up in the Crags without thinking about Reid Sanders.
Thought you might want to know...
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Oct 11, 2007 - 03:24am PT
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We hiked up castle dome and scoped features, lines and bolted stuff
I would really like to do some climbing there.
Seemed like a lot of potential for fun and adventure.
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2007 - 01:05pm PT
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Wow, good stuff. Thanks for sharing. This place has always had a sort of shroud of mystery around it, many folks knowing of its potential and that there is a long history, but nobody seems to know much about it. Tales of long, hot approaches, no water, and bottoming cracks abound, yet the aesthetic of the place has an undeniable allure, both to the artist and the adventurous spirit within each of us. Thanks for (as e-kat would say) keepin' that magic alive! Now keep it coming...
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john bald
climber
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Oct 11, 2007 - 02:47pm PT
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I guess folks are still climbing at the Crags. Have fun with all the outback routes. Looking forward to hearing about the local ramblings there. Cheers..........JB
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Oct 11, 2007 - 03:26pm PT
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John, sorry to miss you in Vedauwoo, this summer!
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2007 - 05:37pm PT
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Cool Jody. I'll look into it.
I've been reading Up and Down California, in 1860-1864. The journal of William H. Brewer. Brewer was a member of the California Geologic Survey, and Whitney's right hand man. Here's an excerpt I read the other night...
"Tuesday, September 9, [1862)] we continued on our way. In a few miles we passed the Castle Rocks (Devil's Castle of the map), most picturesque objects to behold. A granite ridge rises very abruptly from the valley, its crest worn into the most fantastic forms--pinnacles, minarets, battlements, domes, and peaks. Some of these rise perhaps three thousand feet above the valley, and the chain of Castle Mountains is much higher beyond. We were in sight of them a long time and each turn of the road disclosed a new view of them. In crossing a spur from this chain that runs down to the river we had the most magnificent view of Mount Shasta that we have yet had. It appeared up the valley, the foreground of mountains opening to show it, the great cone rising high, its upper six thousand feet streaked with glistening snow, its outlines sharply cut against the intensely blue sky, its sides steep beyond belief."
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Oct 11, 2007 - 06:34pm PT
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Jody, it WILL happen.
Spencer, thanks for that comander Reid stuff, never knew or heard of him before this, glad you are there to let us know!
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2007 - 07:30pm PT
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Sorry to hear that Jody. That's how the game works. "We need it yesterday... Oh, nevermind..." Send them a digital processing fee to cover your lost time. Hundred bucks or so. heh.
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Misha
Trad climber
Woodside, CA
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Oct 11, 2007 - 09:35pm PT
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You got it easier than when I had an encounter with Nat Geo Adventure. They called me on Wednesday and their deadline was... that very Wednesday. They decided to publish me on Thursday morning. Fortunately, I shoot digital and don't have to scan anything but I still had to skip a couple of hours of work that day :)
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 11, 2007 - 09:58pm PT
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Best not to think of it personally, ie: "They decided or decided not to publish ME..." If you do that you're all set up for heartbreak.
To them, it's just an image and they aren't thinking about you. Either its a perfect fit for the story they are working on, or not. It says nothing about the quality of the image, which you, and they, know is damn good, or they never would have called you. So you want to get them to agree to a research/digital services fee up front, which may become a credit toward, or is in addition to (preferable), usage fees. That way you at least get something for your time if they don't use anything, which is often the case. I'll add that once they have made that commitment to get the images, they are more likely to actually use them.
We're drifting off topic...
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Misha
Trad climber
Woodside, CA
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Oct 11, 2007 - 10:10pm PT
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Sound advice, Jerry. Thanks!
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2007 - 02:26am PT
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And if you don't try, how will you ever know?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Oct 12, 2007 - 02:41am PT
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Lake Sabrina pic with midnight blue sky....
hint hint
see other thread...
Sincerely,
Drift Wood
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2007 - 12:35pm PT
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Looking into it Munge.
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john bald
climber
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Oct 12, 2007 - 12:47pm PT
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Jaybro.........I've been chatting w/Zander about a November trip out your way..hope to see you then. I can tell you all about the Crags. Must do my Dike Route on the E face of the Dome.
Cheers........JB
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john bald
climber
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Oct 12, 2007 - 12:48pm PT
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Has anybody finished my line on the right buttress of Becks Tower?
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 12, 2007 - 02:27pm PT
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Hey Jody, last bit on this topic,
Regarding those fees, etc, you have to try to cover the time people are willing to waste. I can't speak for the climbing rags, but most mainstream magazines pay research fees, digital service fees etc. You have to consider your cost of doing business and can't give this precious time away. So you're basically asking them not to waste your time when you ask for these fees. If you play them as a credit toward usage fees, it won't end up costing the client anything extra in the end, but you get the assurance that you won't walk away empty handed. However, you can and should get these fees in addition to usage fees. If they called you looking for images, you don't have to worry about them going on to the thousands of other photographers, because it is your photo they are looking for. I like to think that these days most editors understand the costs associated with consistently making great photographs. But you have to educate your client, have confidence, act professionally, charge rates that reflect your actual cost of doing business, and walk away from bad deals no matter how "cool" it feels to get published.
Okay, carry on.
John, Dike Route story?
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Oct 12, 2007 - 03:28pm PT
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That all sounds about right to me, Jerry.
Nothing to add to this, really. It's really about being professional and that your time is valuable. Time is money, so the (correct) adage goes. And, as Jerry said, you will never know until you try. I think you are sending a couple of different messages, in making the request. First of all, as Jerry pointed out, "don't waste my time". I also think it sends a more polished/professional message to the editor, as well. It says you're used to this, you've been doing it a while, that you know what you and your time are worth (the confidence Jerry mentioned) and that you'll accept nothing less. You're a pro.
I believe Outdoor Photo Mag only gave me same day on the calendar, as Nat Geo did with Misha, too. No biggee though. Pretty standard affair with all of the periodicals I've dealt with.
I'll send you a link to a group/forum that will be very informative, in regards to the above issues, jody.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Oct 12, 2007 - 03:58pm PT
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I haven't followed up with them, as you did, Jody, so, it's hard to say. A lot of that stuff gets placed into my bulk mail filter (their original request was, for instance). I go through it frequently, but if I've been gone for a few days, etc. I know I miss stuff when trying to scan the subjects of 500+ mails. I should probably check with them.
The following week, however, a company contacted me about having a number of photos featured in their calendar for the year. So, it all works out.
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Nefarius
Big Wall climber
Fresno, CA
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Oct 12, 2007 - 05:37pm PT
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Thanks, Jody. It's sometimes hard to look at things the way Jerry pointed out above, but I try. Even if it turns out they didn't use my photo, I'm honored that it was one of their selections. They see thousands upon thousands of photos, so it's a big deal that our photos were even selected in the process. It speaks a lot about our work. Your stuff is very nice, Jody.
Negative self-talk is something I've really been working on, in general. It's something I think so many of us are not even conscious of doing most of the time, yet it pervades a lot of areas of our lives. I've really focused on changing it while on routes, for instance. My partner pointed out that when I was having a bad climbing day, or really struggling on a route, I was really pretty hard on myself about it and had lots of negative dialog. Correcting has really helped me to relax and get it back when I'm pumped or just not feeling it that day.
Anyway... I've never had the chance to climb much at Castle Crags. I've stopped a couple of times on the way too/from Shasta, etc. Nothing major though. Looks like there's TONS of potential up there, however, it also seemed like there was a lot of choss there too.
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Spencer Adkisson
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Oct 13, 2007 - 12:40am PT
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Yeah, it sucks. Don't go there.
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john bald
climber
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Oct 13, 2007 - 02:53pm PT
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Jerry, as Spencer alluded to....there is a lot of choss at the Crags, though, hidden gems are tucked away if you are willing to work for it.
I always heard of the rumors of Lowe, Harding and Bonnington having interest in this face, and thought I'd give it a go. Prefering to do as little bolting as possible, my first attempt only made it a few pitches via runout low angle rock. Stan the Man helped me push the upper route.
I believe there is another line to the left of this one, for someone with the eye for climbing at the crags.
Thanks to all for posting to great pics. You bring back a flood of good memories from a very special place.....JB
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Oct 13, 2007 - 05:56pm PT
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Hey John Bald- did you jump out of Redding?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Oct 14, 2007 - 12:24am PT
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John,
What's the ethic then, with so few climbers, it seems to have retained a ground up, and also a very few bolts policy?
M
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john bald
climber
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Oct 15, 2007 - 08:24pm PT
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For ontheedge...I was a RDD jumper from "78 to early "90's.
Dear munge......cannot comment on the latest developments at the Crags, as I left the area about 15 years ago. The beauty of the crags is that you must be comfortable in runnin' it to your next pro.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Oct 15, 2007 - 08:39pm PT
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John Bald, I must have just missed you at RDD- I was there from 95-99. I thought your name sounded familiar. Every time I would go climbing the guys would tell me that John Bald had worked there and climbed a lot. I would cruise up to the crags sometimes on days off. The place has a mysterious feel. I found a topo of a new route I helped out with on Castle Dome and will post it soon.
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Spencer Adkisson
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Oct 15, 2007 - 09:14pm PT
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The actual Crags are not in Castle Crags State Park, it is a wilderness area, under the administration of the U.S. Forest Service (Shasts-Trinity National Forest). So, you cannot use a power drill, or ride a bike on the trails, but you can use a hammer drill.
Having said that, the ethic is (mostly) for as much natural gear as possible, including sections of substantial run-out. Many routes have gone in like this:
Climb some choss-filled gully or other established route, set some freaky rappell, rap down and drill a bolted anchor. Rap off the anchor, TR the route, and figure out where the gear is, and where the best place for a bolt (if any) would be. Get it done. Climb and be merry.
This method is just one of a bunch of possible scenarios, including ground-up trad FA's. But, whatever the M.O. some really high quality routes have gone up in as good a style as possible. Hats off to Ian, Weber, and Styles for making it happen out there. Good job guys!
Hope that helps. The ethis is: Do it right, leave as little impact as possible, and don't break any laws. Sounds pretty good to me.
*I wouldn't worry about the choss so much though, the approaches, and lack of water, and rattlesnakes will keep most sane people away.*
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Bodega, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 4, 2008 - 02:07am PT
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The wife and I were up in the Shasta area yesterday and today. That place is amazing. We stop at the crags this trip, but thought I'd throw some photos up here, for lack of a better place.
(All © Jerry Dodrill Photography)
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