Fixing on Tangerine Trip..

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 21 - 40 of total 48 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Rhodo-Router

Trad climber
Otto, NC
Sep 25, 2004 - 08:12am PT
Lucky the jugs didn't bite right through...eek.
Sometimes it pays to be a lightweight.
nature

climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 25, 2004 - 08:33am PT
Karl... My guess is it is less drippy. In fact, Virginia is probably a result of the drip factor. The top of the first pitch of LIA can be connected with the top of the second on Virginia via a short 5.easy section.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Sep 25, 2004 - 11:14am PT
The L in A/Virginia start is pretty fun. Definitely harder than the regular trip start. but soooo much more direct. what is cool is that you can climb in two REALLY LONG pitches instead of the Trip's 4 pitches. the second of those two pitches is really steep and wild. Mostly clipping bolts and fixed heads, but sometimes have to make a spicy RP or hook move. and a few big reaches to avoid nailing. it goes clean.

on the L in A/Virginia start you are protected from most of the drips BUT the virginia pitch leading to belay 4 of the trip IS wet. and since that section involves fixed #2 heads and RP's... and is super steep... its pretty spicy. Totally safe, but you could sail through the air for a while...
ricardo

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2004 - 03:46pm PT
Well here is the skinny on the alternate start.

P1 of Lost In America: A dicy move close to the ground, where some dead heads clutter up a small seam. Placed a beak and moved on up. It gets easier after that. Bring lots of medium pieces if you plan to aid the 5.8 ramp.

I did not go all the way to the virginia anchors due to time and lack of gear.

From LA to Virginia, its easy 5.7 medium pieces. Goes quickly.

P2 + P3 of Virginia, link easily. Mostly fixed heads + rivets. Several of the head moves can be skipped by hooking, or using offset-aliens. If I had been thinking more clearly i would have cleaned the fixed heads that were next to good offset alien placements, or hook moves. Some reachy fixed pieces. I added 1 head towards the top since topstepping on very steep terrain above sketchy gear did not sound that much fun to me. -- bring lots of rivet hangers. I had about 10, and that was not enough. (I ended up using my nuts, but then you loose a few inches of reach due to the longer length of the cable)

I am fairly average on speed for a soloist (2 pitches a day), so it took me 2 days to fix to p4 this way. But it was way relaxed, and i was humping loads up to the base at the same time.

If you climb this variation start for the trip, you will have done the crux in the first 2 pitches. Nothing on the trip is even close in difficulty as the stuff in Lost In America or Virginia.

All the fixed gear tested fine, and felt solid, though i agree with chris, if some piece goes, you could sail for a while -- alot of air beneath you.

    ricardo
nature

climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 26, 2004 - 05:21pm PT
ricard - that's a very good summation. It actually did bring back lost memories :-). P2 + P3 link because you come into Virginia P2 from L in A - is that correct? (trying to remember).

Toss in a fun variation - do the 2nd pitch on L in A before deciding to sissy out and bail to the trip. If I remember anything from that climb it was the arrow/blade? pounded straight up into a crack near the end - yummy and fun. Or hell, just don't be a sissy at all and do L in A.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Oct 26, 2004 - 05:55pm PT
The Lost In America to Virginia to P4 of The Trip start is becoming more popular - I saw at least one party do it just before the storm hit.

Lost In America is quite a nice route, actually, and deserves to be climbed more often. It was my 23rd El Cap route and 7th solo. Evidently I didn't find it too hard because I graded it NTB, with no DFU sections. I also managed to climb it quite fast [for me] spending only seven days on the wall. In comparison I spent twelve nights soloing Zed-Em and eight soloing The Shortest Straw.

I had no clue as to where the 5.8R climbing was supposedly up and right of 5 - I climbed straight up which was kinda scary. I found the 11th pitch - Fly or Die - to be pretty good value. I placed 3 heads, and whipped when a bat hook popped. People on the ground later told me they heard me scream when I fell!

One Monday morning [16/6/03] I was entirely alone on the SE face of El Cap, definitely a first. The day before, the Hubers flew by on nearby Zodiac setting one of their record speed ascents.

I remember P12 - The Place of Dead Roads - was pretty long-ass and involved, and took rather long to lead and clean. I placed 16 pins,and actually had to leave a #3 LA which I couldn't clean after breaking two crabs on my funkness.

If you're looking for a gentle intro to old school A4, Lost In America would be your route. I've got my detailed Dr. Piton Super-Duper Beta, so if anyone's interested, drop me a line and I'd be happy to pass it on to you.

Cheers,

Pete
Brick

Social climber
SF, CA
Oct 26, 2004 - 06:14pm PT
"Pete, I really, really like you. Be my man?"

Brick

Social climber
SF, CA
Oct 26, 2004 - 06:23pm PT
Mid 40ís single woman in Canada seeks mid 40ís single Canadian man, er Wall Doctor. Must be adventurous, sensitive and able to meet all my carnal needs.



sorry for the thread highjack. ...you may now resume the spray-fest....
NeverSurfaced

Trad climber
Someplace F*#ked!
Oct 26, 2004 - 06:55pm PT
Jesus Christ Brick! You're honked-up.
nature

climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 26, 2004 - 06:57pm PT
WAIT!!! Brick is using old material! We've seen this before in posts gone bye, no!?!?!?
Brick

Social climber
SF, CA
Oct 26, 2004 - 07:00pm PT
nature, nature, nature, the Brickster would NEVER recycle. This these goods are fresh. virgin, even...
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Oct 26, 2004 - 07:22pm PT
... but she is kinda cute ...
ricardo

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2004 - 09:59pm PT
Ivo described Lost In America as the chossiest route on el cap ..

that is probably enough to keep me off of it for a bit .. (that and the fact that i've yet to break into hard aid on el cap)

    ricardo
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Oakville, Ontario, Canada, eh?
Oct 26, 2004 - 10:29pm PT
Ha! I had an interesting conversation with Ivo:

Me: "I think I used up my Fear Quota on Bermuda Dunes -- I'm looking for a route to solo that's a little easier. Lost In America sounds about right."

Ivo: "You vill be scared....."

Me: "Nah, it should be pretty mellow...."

Ivo: "You vill be scared." [then he turns his back and walks away]






Ivo was right.

Besides, Ricardo, I thought we decided Sunkist was your next solo?
ricardo

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2004 - 10:59pm PT
Oh well .. so much for keeping only informative posts on this thread ..

uhh -- my next solo ... uhh .. umm ... emmm .. wheew -- good thing i dont have vacation until next year .. probably ZM
nature

climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 27, 2004 - 06:27am PT
Gee, this thread took a turn for the worse now didn't it? Funny how that happens around here. (I deleted two of my offending posts).
ricardo

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2004 - 10:43am PT
pete brings out the "best" in people .. specially when he hijacks a thread to let everyone else know what routes he's climbed and how many days he spent on each one ..

    ricardo
nature

climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 27, 2004 - 11:28am PT
no really, is that where we took a left turn to Albuquerque?
big wall paul

Trad climber
tahoe, CA
Oct 27, 2004 - 01:15pm PT
this thread is all over the place... but here's this because I still think it's funny:
I've never done the first 4 pitches on the trip because: I was 'beach combing' the base of el cap one day when I heard yells from a guy up on the Trip. He had climbed the 4th pitch, his partner followed and got so wigged out he bailed. So the guy up there was yelling at me, asking me if I'd like to join him. I said sure and ran back down, bought a portaledge with my unemployment money (960$ a month goes a long way on a climber budget), hiked back up and jugged his ropes. He had tied together his lead line and haul line, but that only made it 30' from the ground, so he had this skinny short lower-out line attached. I jugged up all that (and I remember jugging the skinny rope to be very scary [was it 6mm?]), we did one pitch before dark where I promptly performed a faux-pas by dropping a small bag, which happened to contain half his food. I offered to give him half my food, but he insisted to rap, which we did and we returned the next morning and finished the route over the next few days.
Oh, we saw a green foam lizard glued to the 6th belay. Has anyone seen this? It was in '97.
nature

climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Oct 27, 2004 - 02:00pm PT
Santa Fe is nice too, I think I'll take a left.

Back in 1992 we were heading up to make The Trip our second big wall. The skunks, bears, black widows and scorpions that haunted us the night before we were to blast were not the only things that freaked us out and made us bail. The fifth was to be mine. A party on it was leading the 5th and he nailed everything out from the (one at the time) chicken bolt. About 8 pins out a piece pulled and he zippered all the nails. He took this huge ride while we watched. My stomach went into my throat. We bailed and did WF Leaning tower. Best part there is that we had a "Trip supply" (lots) of beer.

Right turn back on to topic, anyone?
Messages 21 - 40 of total 48 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews