Fixing on Tangerine Trip..

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ricardo

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Sep 22, 2004 - 12:45pm PT
Hypothetical situation: "You're fixing on the trip, and can't make p4 on the first day."

Would be it better to fix to P2, or P3 .. I remember there being a discussion of a sharp edge that has a history of chopping fixed lines on one of this stations.

    ricardo
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Sep 22, 2004 - 12:55pm PT
much better to fix to 3. i think the shape edge is on 2.
Gene

Social climber
Two hours away
Sep 22, 2004 - 01:02pm PT
http://www.fishproducts.com/index1.html


http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/elcapd.txt
Mike.

climber
Sep 22, 2004 - 02:06pm PT
Combining 3 & 4 might help. Or fix one and go.
ricardo

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 22, 2004 - 02:17pm PT
thanks for the quick replies guys! ..

    ricardo
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Sep 22, 2004 - 05:31pm PT
yup, edge on 2 (top)

Both 3 and 4 are clean to the ground.

charge that sh#t Ricardo you got it!
nature

climber
Flagstaff, AZ
Sep 23, 2004 - 07:32am PT
One way to avoid having to "fix" is to do Virginia. Or, do the dumb thing we did last year. Start up Lost In America (only need to lead the first pitch but do the second just for fun because that arrow pounded straight up is RAD!), realize you just don't have the sack to finish LA, bail to Virginia, then continue on the Trip. You can haul each pitch one at a time. The climbing is a bit more stiff (NW A2+) but considering the potential for chaos on the regular start one might argue it's less dangerous. It's only three pitches to the start of "the fifth" on the trip.
Chicken Skinner

Trad climber
Yosemite
Sep 23, 2004 - 08:16pm PT
I want to warn you that I know of 2 instances when people have fixed pitches to pitch 3 and had their ropes damaged while jugging back up, one resulting in death, though I can't remember her name. The other instance involved my good friend Errett Allen who was fortunate enough that when he saw the sheath pull apart he was able to transfer to someone elses fixed lines. It is a rounded edge and looks harmless enough but, it was pretty much common knowledge that you either fixed to the 2nd or the 4th. If you don't beleive me at least do some research as I would hate to read about another death on the Trip. Climb safely.
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Sep 23, 2004 - 09:11pm PT
Just to clarify...it is the top of the 2nd pitch that goes over the edge(or bottom of the 3rd...which ever you want to call it)...not the top of the third. Been through those pitches twice in the last two seasons.

from Clint Cummins site...

>1-2. Two people who fell off the Trip.
1 - fixed rope cut by sharp/rough rock while jumaring back to top of p2
(late 70s?). Maybe the same as #17 below.
2 - Carol Moyer, 1983 (ANAM 1984). Following a downward diagonal
pitch 4 on jumars, when they came off the rope (she wasn't tied
in to end of rope).
ricardo

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2004 - 01:31am PT
.. At this point i think i'm going to climb P1 of Lost in America and then do p2 and p3 of Virginia to get onto the trip ..

.. looks more straight forward in paper .. and i am more confident that i can do that in a day.

    ricardo
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Sep 24, 2004 - 07:27am PT
In my opinion, you should do the Trip start. It is part of the route...and it's kinda cool in a weird way.
David

Trad climber
San Rafael, CA
Sep 24, 2004 - 08:53am PT
When Cmac hauled my ass up the Trip in May we used the Lost in America/Virginia start. It was pretty funny. After carrying a loads to the base I headed back to the car for the ledge and some more water while Chris stayed at the base to sort out the rack and get us started. I thought I did the hike down and back rather quickly. I don't think I stopped once but by the time I was back at the base of the climb he was on the ground and both pitches were already fixed. Redicuolous!
Rhodo-Router

Trad climber
Otto, NC
Sep 24, 2004 - 08:57am PT
The Trip start is fine-- think how many people have managed to pull it off successfully. Bring edge pro if it keeps you happy.

Ahh, what the f*#k am I saying? Do what you like, it's your climb. Traverse in from the Nose if that's what you feel like.

I need to get a life.

Although-- the down-aiding arch is pretty cool. For the leader. I remember following it, hanging off tat from this creaky, rusty old knifeblade with nothing between me and the belay but an ugly 150 degree slam into a pedestal, and my partner laughing at me saying "I bet right about now you're hoping that knifeblade doesn't blow"-- he had penji'd 25 feet to the bee-lay from it...

F%ckin' I sound like an old-timer...them was the days...
Mike.

climber
Sep 24, 2004 - 09:32am PT
Where else can one do a Robbins/Porter route? The down aiding is silly and fun (and probably good practice for the reportoir). I did it in the rain - totally dry.

Best,

Mr. Not-finished-the-actual-route-cuz-offroute-climbing-is-my-thing
Kofi Donny Annan

climber
Utah
Sep 24, 2004 - 10:03am PT
yea what Mike said. robbins/ porter = must see TV
Kofi Donny Annan

climber
Utah
Sep 24, 2004 - 10:04am PT
yea what Mike said. robbins/ porter = must see TV
Kofi Donny Annan

climber
Utah
Sep 24, 2004 - 10:04am PT
sorry. i stutter.
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Sep 24, 2004 - 10:09am PT
Rhoto,

My friend/partner was in that exact same position....but the pin did blow...and he took a 30fter straight onto the anchor. It was prety wild, glad nothing bad happened other then having to cut the knot out of the rope.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Sep 24, 2004 - 06:06pm PT
Wonder if that LIA/Virginia start would be a better option when the Trip is drippy?

Still haven't got around to the Trip but I want to. Last time I found myself at the base it was super wet and Zodiac was empty so I got tempted and went over there.

Peace

karl
ricardo

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2004 - 06:27pm PT
karl:

what are you doing next week? -- lets do the trip.
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