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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 30, 2011 - 09:52pm PT
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Off the icy couch bump.
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Larry Ware
Trad climber
Leysin, Switzerland
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Jun 20, 2011 - 12:59pm PT
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Dear Wee Gordon,
It has been too long a while since last we shared a rope.It was fun reading your "works". Why such a prolonged silence??
I am still in Leysin though may soon be emigrating to Chamonix. The battered body still seems to come alive on the rock though I give it far less chances to do so these days.
Do you remember the Carpentier on the Blatiére? The whole route has disappeared now. As I recall, the rock was a tad hollow.
ISM struggles on. The Vag dried up. College failed. I retired.
Martine sends her best.
Larry
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Larry Ware
Trad climber
Leysin, Switzerland
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Jun 22, 2011 - 02:05pm PT
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Thanks Steve for the Dougal pictures. I showed Allan around when he was over two years ago. The interview with Annie was on my balcony. I hope he can fulfil his dream and put together his film on the Vag climbers. The sixties and seventies and well into the eighties were amazing times in Leysin. From John Harlin to Pat Littlejohn, there is a lot of history. I am fortunate to have been a part of most of it.
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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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Jun 30, 2011 - 08:18pm PT
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Hi Larry. See you in Sept. I'll be in touch.
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Allen Hill
Social climber
CO.
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Jun 30, 2011 - 09:39pm PT
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2011 - 12:27pm PT
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Can anyone confirm the origin of the screw pictured below? Nestor Superscrew perhaps? No manufacturer's mark that I can see.
This shot of the same screw appeared in the 1960 AAJ but I haven't been able to locate the point of reference.
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DJMac
Big Wall climber
Bonedale, CO
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Nov 14, 2011 - 10:56am PT
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I think I'm having a flashback ...
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Todd Eastman
climber
Bellingham, WA
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Nov 14, 2011 - 01:18pm PT
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Steve, the ice screw is European (probably Austrian) and not a Nestor. The Nestor Super Screw was made in the very early 1970s and was supposed to be a drive-in. It seemed better at blasting away ice than offering safety...
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RDB
Social climber
wa
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Nov 14, 2011 - 10:51pm PT
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best thread on the Taco :)
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Nov 15, 2011 - 01:07pm PT
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Steve,
The threaded ice screw shows up in the 1961 REI catalog.
Named "Swiss Ice Screw Pitons"
Three sizes:
Eye Screw 6 1/2"
Short Ring Screw 5 1/2"
Long Ring Screw 7"
REI catalog shows picture of two screws.
The screw shown by Steve looks like the 5 1/2" version.
Item not shown in 1960 REI catalog.
Rock on! Marty
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2011 - 12:21am PT
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Thanks Todd.
My recollection of the Superscrew didn't match this item very well.
Anybody have one for show and tell?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2011 - 12:20pm PT
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I just heard about the Bozeman Ice Festival happening December 9- 11. Joe Josephson has been working hard at making this one especially choice and I will be bringing along lots of items from my own collection and some borrowed ones to present a historical timeline and show the evolution of the gear from items like the ones above to the present.
Jeff Lowe and Connie Self will be there so this really promises to be a stand out gathering. I have been doing an in depth biographical and historic interview with Jeff and will be continuing it while in Bozeman.
More on this stellar event will be forthcoming. Don't miss this one!
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steve shea
climber
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Nov 19, 2011 - 01:14pm PT
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I'm going ice climbing in Teton Canyon tommorow. I'm using all my old stuff. I bet it still works after collecting dust since the mid nineties. I'll probably look into new boots though. But it'll be fun...terrors are what I'm used to. I think my last new tool was something made by BD. I did buy a new coated rope. Maybe I'll do a TR on geriatric ice climbing SS
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Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Nov 19, 2011 - 04:43pm PT
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Speaking of Chouinard & ice-climbing: back up-thread I had shared photos of Chouinard's U.S. made Wart-Hog and asked for background information. RDB & Doug Robinson, among others, shared some good information.
I finally found the page that has this Warthog, and Chouinard's US made screws: in the Chouinard/Great Pacific Ironworks 1975 catalog. Those products replaced the Salewa Wart-hog and screws, Chouinard had previously sold.
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perswig
climber
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Nov 19, 2011 - 05:46pm PT
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Maybe I'll do a TR on geriatric ice climbing
Please do. Our early flirt with ice ended abruptly and conditions are less than favorable at the moment here in the NE.
Dale
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2011 - 07:40pm PT
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Those Warthogs still look like some kind of sci-fi murder weapon...LOL
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Nov 20, 2011 - 07:43pm PT
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In 1970 a friend of mine took a 120 ft. fall on the Italian Route on Ben Nevis. His Wart Hog came out part way and bent in half but held the fall. My friend walked away with a few scratches.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Nov 20, 2011 - 09:29pm PT
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What the hell did you do with those things? Do you pound one straight into the ice(how satisfying)? Are the treads for getting them out?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2011 - 10:31pm PT
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Pound in and screw out...or take a screamer! LOL
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