Classic Ice Primer- Chouinard Catalog 1968

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Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Nov 19, 2011 - 04:43pm PT
Speaking of Chouinard & ice-climbing: back up-thread I had shared photos of Chouinard's U.S. made Wart-Hog and asked for background information. RDB & Doug Robinson, among others, shared some good information.

I finally found the page that has this Warthog, and Chouinard's US made screws: in the Chouinard/Great Pacific Ironworks 1975 catalog. Those products replaced the Salewa Wart-hog and screws, Chouinard had previously sold.

From 1975 catalog.
From 1975 catalog.
Credit: Fritz
Credit: Fritz
Credit: Fritz
Chouinard USA screws & Warthog
Chouinard USA screws & Warthog
Credit: Fritz
perswig

climber
Nov 19, 2011 - 05:46pm PT
Maybe I'll do a TR on geriatric ice climbing

Please do. Our early flirt with ice ended abruptly and conditions are less than favorable at the moment here in the NE.
Dale
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2011 - 07:40pm PT
Those Warthogs still look like some kind of sci-fi murder weapon...LOL
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 20, 2011 - 07:43pm PT
In 1970 a friend of mine took a 120 ft. fall on the Italian Route on Ben Nevis. His Wart Hog came out part way and bent in half but held the fall. My friend walked away with a few scratches.
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Nov 20, 2011 - 09:29pm PT
What the hell did you do with those things? Do you pound one straight into the ice(how satisfying)? Are the treads for getting them out?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2011 - 10:31pm PT
Pound in and screw out...or take a screamer! LOL
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Nov 20, 2011 - 10:34pm PT
Mike M!

Indeed!

You did pound Warthogs straight into the ice!

Salewa Warthog in alpine ice, Chouinard Route, Mt. Fay, Canada.
Salewa Warthog in alpine ice, Chouinard Route, Mt. Fay, Canada.
Credit: Fritz

A little "prep-work:" to create a somewhat smooth & un-fractured ice platform about 12" x 12", was considered good.

It was very satisfying, if----the ice wasn't too cold and brittle.

Then, the ice would "dinner-plate" and fracture into chunks that rained down on those below.

Of course if the ice was thin, the Warthog would "bottom-out" and either break, or fracture the ice above it.

Sometime in the late 1970's: Mountain Magazine ran an extensive test report on "ice-pitons & screws." Warthogs sucked bad in the tests.

As I recall: the Chouinard USA tubular screws had some bad reviews too.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 20, 2011 - 11:18pm PT
Pounding in a Wart Hog somehow never gave you that reasuring feel that you got from driving a chromoly steel piton into a perfect granite crack.
Fritz

Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
Nov 20, 2011 - 11:41pm PT
Jim: Perhaps it was the lack of the "rising pitch" of the well placed pin.

I'm trying to recreate the sound of a "well-placed" Warthog??

Was it: "Clunk, clunk, clunk??"

Damn, they went in quick though, vs screwing in those fluccking Salewa screws,------and then discovering the screws would not insert again, until you melted the ice out of the core.

I really never believed that Scottish BS, about putting ice screws down your shirt to melt the cores---------until the fateful afternoon in 1974 on Cascade Couloir by Baniff. After that: the trickle of ice-water down my chest, from melting ice-screw cores, was just part of the significant suffering, that some called fun, during alpine or waterfall climbing.

Fritz, about 1975, screwing--on Cascade Couloir near Baniff.  Chouinar...
Fritz, about 1975, screwing--on Cascade Couloir near Baniff. Chouinard alpine hammer, crampon, wool-knickers, Piolet, Foamback top, & also Dachstein Mittens, a Jensen Pack, & Ultimate helmet.
Credit: Fritz
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 20, 2011 - 11:45pm PT
Exactly.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2011 - 07:17pm PT
The aforemetioned link is:

bozemanicefestival.com
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 20, 2012 - 08:38pm PT
As well as bumping some memorable Jack Roberts material I have to pump up the Bozeman Ice Festival!!!

This year's 40th Anniversary of Ice Climbing in Hyalite event was amazing with perfect weather, good ice and great entertainment every night!

Three cheers for Joe Josephson and the Bozeman guides for putting on a first rate event indoors and out! Big thanks to the ongoing sponsors and supporters of this gathering!
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
Feb 3, 2012 - 11:04pm PT
Bumping the best of the best. This isn't a Thread it's an encyclopedia.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2012 - 10:09am PT
This thread on Les Droites needs to be cross linked...

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1605102/les-droites-face-nord-jackson-shea-and-richard-cranium-rts
Hannes

Ice climber
London, UK
Feb 9, 2012 - 03:40pm PT
Does anyone happen to know when Chouinard/Camp stopped making the blue fibreglass shafted axes? I happened to find two of them in the university climbing club's gear locker, sadly they are pretty beaten up. A 60 and 55 cm, should have taken a photo.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 4, 2012 - 07:14pm PT
Those blue glass axes weren't in production for more than a few years because they broke with ease.

The ice tool collectors can likely give you a timeline from catalogs. I can't do so for that particular catalog set.
Brian in SLC

Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
Apr 4, 2012 - 09:12pm PT
I used a blue shaft Chouinard Zero (my first decent axe for ice climbing) and the X-tools for years...dented the hammer is all, never an issue with busted tools other than that, and, I've never seen a busted blue shaft Zero or Piolet. They seemed pretty burly to me.

As near as I can figure, they came out with the blue shaft Zero around 79/80. Replaced by the X-tool versions in 83 or so.

Blue shaft Piolet from around the 83 timeframe through around 87.

X-tools bumped by the X-15 in 1990 or so? Made by Chouinard in blue, then black, then by Black Diamond. Blue shafted X-15 marked as Chouinard not super common.

I've always found the blue shafted Zeros and Piolets to be fairly stout tools. YMMV.
RDB

Social climber
wa
Apr 4, 2012 - 10:47pm PT
Just a little bump for a good cause :)



Ice last week.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2012 - 10:31am PT
That's the stuff!

Nice ice Dane! Location?

I never broke my blue glass piolet but several friends had their axes snap just below the head anchoring plug at the first solid to cavity transition.
RDB

Social climber
wa
Apr 5, 2012 - 12:05pm PT
Hey Steve, it is Carlsberg in Field BC..just out of Lake Louise. The consumate WI5 in the Canadian Rockies @ soft 3+ conditions last week.

Now that I think about it this needs a link here for a little "back then and now" :)

http://coldthistle.blogspot.com/2012/03/then-and-now.html
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