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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Aug 22, 2009 - 06:40pm PT
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I climbed it in June. It was fine. Getting through the dripping mud on the first pitch adds charater. Had a 4 C4 Camalot, a 5 would have been nice. No rock fall. One of the best free routes in the Valley for 10+.
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okie
Trad climber
San Leandro, Ca
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Aug 22, 2009 - 08:49pm PT
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Thanks for the info, guys. Yeah, my partners tried to talk me into the dry, albeit runout variation to the right- interesting that it was climbed by Tobin...
The entire first pitch was wet last time I was there. I'm already a character, but I guess there'd be no harm in adding some...
A left variation with some drilling? Hmm...
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Aug 22, 2009 - 10:25pm PT
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A few years ago I scanned some pictures of an early ascent of the Good Book. Here is the link:[url="http://supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=383333&msg=383333#msg383333]An early ascent of the Rigth Side of the Folly[/url]
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Aug 23, 2009 - 01:13am PT
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My favorite free climb in the Valley; The Good Book.
Here is Wally Barker on The Good Book
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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John Sheard leading the crux from Yosemite Climber. Jill Lawrence took the shot.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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No LEB backing allowed! LOL That belay nook is killer!
I have a stellar set of slides from this route that I need to dig out.
Nice art posting, Ed!
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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I got on The Good Book in the summer of '07. It was my first climb after NIAD. We had taken a full rest day, inbetween, but I still almost puked on the 10d liebacking and jamming since I still appparently needed some recovery time. When we got to the offwidth, I remember all we had was a #4 C4, whatever guidebook we had telling us that was enough. I just sucked it up and ran that pitch out a lot. It was my first true "5.9+ offwidth" valley experience. I liked that much better than having bolts to clip. This thread brings back memories of good times.
While I was on it, there was definitely rock fall above us, and at one point we heard a shift come from inside the cliff near the roof that (if memory serves correctly) is at the top of the crux lieback pitch. We almost bailed as a result, but realized that it didn't matter when we bailed then or later, we would still have to go through a potential "kill zone" at the bottom so we just finished the route and did the last rappel and bailed as quick as we could.
Josh
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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One of the best climbs, anywhere....
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there all, say, thanks for the sharing of the good book... (as with many of these climbs---never heard of them, but thanks to you, i am learning)....
say, as to this quote of werners:
but "The Good Book" is one of the most beautiful classic free routes here.
10 stars .....
wow--sounds very impressive in deed...
say, russ, and others mention rock fall... (haha, or he'd give a 15, he said) ...
say---i DID see some really great pics by tarbuster on the first few post---but i do not know if this is the rout in question, or if it another one that is mentioned, in these post as well....
so i am wondering... please:
which pics did tarbuster post... the good book? (or the wild thing?)
and does anyone have a post of what the rock fall area of the good book, looks like?
*i did not see all the post yet, so that may be there, but i was far too curious, and needed to post now, as i need to get off line soon...
thanks guys...
will be back to see or learn more...
thanks for sharing bits on this marvelous sounding rock...
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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My bro's did the climb back in the early eighties, and highly recommended it, but then rock fall and closures have plagued the area for ....... Shite happens when in the mountains, between The Folly and GPA the man is gonna keep us climbers safe....Thank gawd,,,
I'm glad folks are running up that area again and hope we can dance around MR. Natural and other GPA classics without fear of a ticket.
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Greg Barnes
climber
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Missed this in '07. Just to clarify, when we did the replacement in '99, we removed/chopped 3 pro bolts: a 1/4" with homemade hanger right next to a perfect hand crack on the 5.10c hands pitch (forget which type of 1/4" bolt, this was actually removed a few weeks later since we forgot on the rap off), a 1/4" Star-Dryvin at the start of the offwidth next to a bomber #1 camalot placement, and the second of the 3 original 1/4" Star-Dryvin bolts along the offwidth section of the last pitch. Those both had the small homemade lever-out Harding hangers. The other two bolts along the offwidth were already missing, and that last bolt was part way out, with a red bail sling on it!
To be even more specific, we:
 patched two extra 1/4" holes below the first anchor (top of old pitch 2, base of corner) - probably the original bolt holes since the anchor was already bigger bolts
removed a 1/4" bolt on the left wall a short distance below the 2nd (crux) pitch anchor
replaced one bolt at the 2nd pitch anchor, removed & patched one more, and left two 3/8" bolts, one of which was a 3/8" Star-Dryvin
pounded a 1/4" stud (broken bolt) a bit more into the rock to make it more flush, part way up pitch 3 (possible old original bolt?)
replaced one bolt at the pitch 3 anchor, and added one vertically for a Fixe Trad anchor (with double-ring setup that they made for us). This was because the other bolt was a 3/8" Star-Dryvin which we would not have been able to reuse the hole (we could now with the lag bolt tricks from Clint and Bruce)
planned to remove the 1/4" pro bolt right next to the perfect hand crack on pitch 4, but we forgot while rapping, and I think Jack & Todd went up and removed that one later.
replaced one bolt at pitch 4 anchor, removed & patched one bolt, left two 3/8" bolts, one of which was a 3/8" Star-Dryvin
removed first bolt on right wall of offwidth, next to perfect #1 camalot placement
noted broken bolt on left wall of offwidth, I think this had the bolt sheared off in the hole flush with the rock surface
removed part way out bolt on left wall of offwidth, 1/4" Star-Dryvin
noted missing bolt on left wall of offwidth, and patched hole
removed & patched two bolts at top anchor, and replaced one bolt - there was already one good 3/8" bolt. We also removed two pitons at this anchor.
The offwidth goes from 4" to 6" back down to 5" or so...and by throwing a little weight on the follower on the lower pitches, you can be on toprope the whole way with a couple big cams.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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THe Good Book rules.
Too bad about the rockfall. If you make it up the first pitch alive, you're probably good until the hike down as the upper pitches seem protected by overhangs above.
Much safer than the north face of the Eiger or Matterhorn
More dangerous than most of the rest of Yosemite
Peace
Karl
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Gobee
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Is An Open Book!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there say, gobee... some very nice scriptures are on these pages you just shared.... say, i just shared some of THIS good book with a gal in deep need, tonight... and it really did do her much good...
wow, i was so very happy for her...
seemed she had been in a bit of a "rockfall" of her own, for a bit, just of late, and now she is getting to rise above it... :)
god is so good...
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Fuzzywuzzy
climber
suspendedhappynation
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Hartoni -
Good one finding the Folly of history!!
I have some photos somewhere of Vern on the 2nd ascent. Wetness required a couple of "pulls" through the streak as I remember.
Great posts from everyone!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Tom- Is the slide scanning getting any easier?
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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heythere say, dear (nov. 10, edit) "~~~~~~~~~~~~~", say.... if you look back, very kindly, you will see that i was so very delighted to see this wonderful find about this superb piece of rock...
i just love it...
and--i gave werner a very nice salute as to its magnifigance...
then, suddenly gobees's post arrose here, and i thought it was kind of a cute gesture how the name was used for his fast share of the another good book.... i was just being kind and polite to his use of such...
thus, i don't think i have done harm, so sadly must reply to you, it seems okay for me to leave my post here...
even as we all, seek to reply nicely to the post of others...
i am still very graciously awaiting more shares about the spectacular rock, called the good book:
being i am very curious about the rock slide...
thus far, i think i have taken care here at ol' supertopo, not to harm my beloved friends....
god bless to you, dear friend, as well, and may you have a very nice supertopo night, this eve, and many safe climbs and wonderful times, with your buddies, in doing so...
love to you, from ol' neebee...
*oops, and edit:
i am so looking forward to some great pics here, and too... :)
nov. 10, edit: dear "~~~~~~~~~~" look forward to seeing you again, with some neat post to share.... >:D
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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heythere karl baba... say, also, i had forgot to get this in, as to your interesting share:
as to your quote:
Much safer than the north face of the Eiger or Matterhorn
More dangerous than most of the rest of Yosemite
wow--i did NOT know this... thanks for the share... oh my!
still hope to see which pics are of the good book and which are of the wild things...
*have the gift to send you, too... was late for the mail today...
feel well and keep smiling... (like the injured list post, i will pop up there soon... have my own injury story) ... ;)
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