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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Aug 21, 2018 - 08:32am PT
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If professional chemists really can't get the pH of water right, there is ample reason for climbers who know nothing about chemistry to be cautious about recommendations from professional chemists. (Sorry Brokedown...)
On top of this is what seems to this non-professional chemist to be a confusion about whether or not something is an "acid" and whether or not it has an "effect."
My non-professional take is that evidence for "effect" has shown up in the CP sheet listing "slight corrosion" as an consequence of exposure to methanol, and the Tendon rope company tests that found a reduction in total rope capacity and recommended retiring the rope.
Whether that effect comes from the acidity of methanol or some other mechanism is indeed a subject for the professional chemists, but climbers trying to make rational decisions still have to deal with the presence of an effect.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aug 21, 2018 - 08:37am PT
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Why all this hand wringing and gnashing of teeth over chemistry? Shouldn’t the discussion be about whether a human life is worth $200?
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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Aug 21, 2018 - 08:48am PT
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I agree Reilly, which is why my original post, subsequently labeled as "superstition," was just that I wouldn't use the rope!
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sempervirens
climber
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Aug 21, 2018 - 09:16am PT
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Personally, I would wash the rope in cow sh!t since cow sh!t is pure antisceptic and you'll be totally bomber after that .....
Nah. That's just gross materialism. Quit yer quacking and read the Bhagavad Gita.
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High Fructose Corn Spirit
Gym climber
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Aug 21, 2018 - 11:09am PT
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Malemute, fwiw, I've been with you the whole way.
Where's the common sense here, lol. Check out the suspect area on the rope, run it through your fingers for any signs of oxidation, weathering, aging, etc. If concerned, keep an eye on it for awhile. If still concerned months later, take it to the gym and fall it on a few times.
Sheesh.
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Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
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Aug 21, 2018 - 12:04pm PT
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I offered a simple solution to the problem: send me the rope and "I'll do the testing." That is, use the rope. Simply washing the rope will "fix everything."
Seriously, if the rope is fairly new, and you are worried about it, make it your toprope rope. Then take a couple small deliberate falls on it. Should be NO issues, but the rope manufacturers are always there to sell you a new one...
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Aug 21, 2018 - 01:38pm PT
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I always thought that "whipper fluid" was the urine you passed in a big fall,..
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Yury
Mountain climber
T.O.
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Aug 21, 2018 - 07:30pm PT
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According to my knowledge of chemistry this rope should be OK (I had a bit of experience with polymers and solvents as a part of my research).
However in practice I would throw this rope away (based on my gut feeling rather than based on knowledge). :(
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