Two Brits arriving to climb NAW on El Cap next week - plan B


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Big Wall climber
Peak District, UK
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2018 - 06:24am PT
Thanks Everyone for all the great beta! Really helpful and I'm certainly seeing a silver lining amidst the potential disappointment of not getting on The Big Stone.

Needles, High Sierra & Calaveras look like great options - I just spotted there's a new Needles guidebook out - any idea where I can buy one on the way from SFO?

Zion, The Black, The Diamond, Wind River and The Bugaboos(!) are all on the bucket list but probably best left for a longer trip in and out of another airport (and we can't change the tickets) but that might change when we see the smoke!

Keep the ideas coming...




Mountain climber
Aug 8, 2018 - 07:59am PT
How about Tehipite Dome ? Unclimbed routes & you could also be first Brits . Alan Rouse was the only Brit I ever encountered in the Sierra outside the Valley .

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Aug 8, 2018 - 08:23am PT
Tehipite Dome in August? That’s some crazy talk! We’re talkin’ about Brits here, not Tuaregs!

Trad climber
Upland, CA
Aug 8, 2018 - 11:17am PT
The Needles is a gorgeous place and the rock is beautiful. You won't regret going there.

Dom, the store called REI in the US, has two locations on your way out of town from SFO, headed south towards the Needles. The closest one is in San Carlos - it's right off the highway 101 exit 5 minutes from the airport. REI carries Kris' book and they may have it on the shelf but you can arrange for an in-store pickup at that location, online, see link above.

Other places where they might have one just sitting on the shelf is the Planet Granite Belmont climbing gym, also very close to SFO.

Both the gym and REI carry a good selection of California guidebooks. Probably they will both have the Croft guide to the high Sierra alpine routes. If you decide to do some eastside Alpine climbing after the Needles, getting from the Needles to the Eastside will probably be more easily accomplished by heading south from the Needles and going past Tehachapi and back up 395.

Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
Aug 8, 2018 - 12:14pm PT
Moro Rock in Kings Canyon has some wall routes. Webcams show that it might be above the smoke layer

Needles Guidebook can be picked up at the Touchstone gyms in SF, Oak, and Berkeley

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Aug 8, 2018 - 06:09pm PT
No fires in Colorado.

There are several fires burning in Colorado and we are having smoke issues too.

Pretty hot in the Black right now.

Good luck on your trip, you may even be able to do plan A.

Gym climber
Aug 8, 2018 - 10:56pm PT
I swear half of these people don't leave the bay area. Just because an area isn't burning or closed for fear of burning does not make it climbable. Calaveras (and most of CA) is smokey as hell right now.

Big Wall climber
Peak District, UK
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2018 - 01:58pm PT
Many thanks again for all the great beta.

Hi Phylp - brilliant, I've got one pinned down at the gym - thanks!

Mighty Hiker - hello there! We won't make Facelift this year I'm afraid, and might not make it to the Valley at all at this rate... Fingers crossed and hope you are keeping well.

Cheers, Dom

Social climber
Aug 9, 2018 - 02:38pm PT
People with reservations at Camp Curry have been told they are reopening the tent cabins on August 14, if that's helpful. The evacuation order was lifted for residents of the Valley yesterday.

Campsite reservation holders are also being told that they can use their reservations on August 14 or afterwards. Yosemite Lodge is closed for clean-up until the 30th.

SO...I'm guessing they plan to open the Valley by the 14th...I think it may be a day sooner. Things went well the last couple of days on the firefighting front.

Social climber
Sierra Eastside
Aug 9, 2018 - 03:35pm PT
Valkirie on Angel Wings. i've heard you can pull though the short crux. Or if you have to aid climb: The Devil Made me do it. You could have the second ascent.

Big Wall climber
Peak District, UK
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2018 - 12:09am PT
Thanks Pilikoa - that's great news! We're packing "all the toys" so hopefully we're equipped for all options :-)
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
Aug 10, 2018 - 12:59am PT
Talk about job security ---the Lion (Mammoth) Fire is totally ridiculous.
They could have put it out with Aerial tankers etc the first day --but here we are 2 months later with the helicopters in and out all day doing little to nothing.
It must be nice.

Gym climber
Aug 10, 2018 - 08:13am PT
Biotch don't know sh#t.

Big Wall climber
Aug 10, 2018 - 01:07pm PT
valley opening next tuesday, you could still do the NA . ss

Big Wall climber
Peak District, UK
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2018 - 12:40am PT
Looks like Plan A might be back on :-)

Many thanks for all the useful advice - plenty of inspiration for a future trip.

If you are interested to see how this one turns out, you can follow progress on my blog:

Cheers, Dom
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Aug 11, 2018 - 08:00am PT
Get someplace dark tonight and look to the NNE after 11;00 for the Perseid meteor shower.
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