Two Brits arriving to climb NAW on El Cap next week - plan B

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Dominic

Big Wall climber
Peak District, UK
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 7, 2018 - 01:48am PT
Help - Advice needed! We're a couple of Brits arriving at SFO this weekend for a two week trip to The Valley and a planned ascent of North America Wall (we've climbed El Cap about 20 times between us). That looks like it might not happen, so we need a Plan B.
We'd really appreciate some local knowledge... Here's an idea of what we might be after and some constraints:
 generally longer rock and mountain routes (but happy to fit in the odd 'rest day' single pitch sport or trad
 it will be hot so high and/or shady would be good
 we don't have any permits booked, obviously, so we are confined to open access areas or car-to-car
 grade-wise I guess 10 to easy 11 for big routes and potentially nudging easy 12 for sport
Initial ideas might be The Hulk, Tuolomnee, other High Sierra? maybe The Needles? Lake Tahoe? Cardinal?
All suggestions welcome.
Cheers, Dom and Bill
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Aug 7, 2018 - 02:31am PT
The Needles is probably best, since it's not blocked by fires at the moment. Many good multipitch 5.10s there.
https://web.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/needles/index.htm
The Hulk is good; 120 is open to reach it now, but not 108 at present.
Tuolumne Meadows, may be smoky, 120 open to reach it now.
https://inciweb.nwcg.gov/ Zoom in to California to see active fires.
Highway 120 (Yosemite NP) was blocked by Ferguson Fire, but reopened to Tuolumne (Valley may reopen on August 14).
Highway 108 (Sonora Pass) blocked by Donnell Fire.
Delhi Dog

climber
Good Question...
Aug 7, 2018 - 03:11am PT
Any chance you guys willing to drive a bit further given the constraints currently...?

How about the Black Canyon?

hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
Aug 7, 2018 - 05:32am PT
elevation comparable to EC, improved aspect over NAW.
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Silk-Road-to-the-Karakoram-Highway-a-Cal-Domes-mega-classic/t11736n.html
a good number of shady photos for an august ascent, minus early pitches
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Aug 7, 2018 - 09:29am PT
Perfect conditions here a few weeks ago!

Inner City

Trad climber
Portland, OR
Aug 7, 2018 - 09:38am PT
Well the Sierras are such a smoky summer range these days that I'd recommend going further afield.

What about the Tetons/Wind River combo. A long drive from SFO but high season in those ranges and great options for endless rock and mountain climbing.

With all the smoke and uncertainty in the Sierras, I'd consider that idea..
my two cents
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
Aug 7, 2018 - 10:09am PT
we don't have any permits booked, obviously, so we are confined to open access areas or car-to-car
Skip the obvious (i.e. busy) ranger stations in Mammoth and Bishop and hit Lee Vining instead for a walk-in Inyo NF backcountry permit with no line.
johntp

Trad climber
Little Rock and Loving It
Aug 7, 2018 - 10:34am PT
+1 and five stars for the wind river range. Just what you are looking for. Add into it a nice chance to see other than the sierra landscape. Once you get out of the Cali traffic, the drive is a breeze. You'll have to hike in and camp out (backpack). It'll add to your pack weight but worth it.
Inner City

Trad climber
Portland, OR
Aug 7, 2018 - 01:27pm PT
Tioga road now open for driving from west side (San Francisco, etc) through to Tuolumne Meadows, that would be a nice way to check out Yosemite smokiness and then bail to the east side for high country access or better yet, on to Wyoming!
The Alpine

climber
The Sea
Aug 7, 2018 - 01:38pm PT
Needles! Though I would check on smoke conditions there first.

But seriously... the Needles. That assumes you’re willing to climb 5.10.
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Aug 7, 2018 - 01:43pm PT
Tioga road now open for driving from west side (San Francisco, etc) through to Tuolumne Meadows

Am curious where you are getting this info?

from the CalTrans website:
http://www.dot.ca.gov/hq/roadinfo/display.php?page=sr120

SR 120
[IN THE CENTRAL CALIFORNIA AREA & SIERRA NEVADA]
IS CLOSED AT CRANE FLAT (TUOLUMNE CO) - DUE TO A WILDFIRE - MOTORISTS ARE
ADVISED TO USE AN ALTERNATE ROUTE
Don Paul

Social climber
Denver CO
Aug 7, 2018 - 01:45pm PT
No fires in Colorado. The Diamond is the only thing comparable in the lower 48
skywalker1

Trad climber
co
Aug 7, 2018 - 01:49pm PT
+1 for hitting the Needles. Then move on to Kings/ Sequoia NP? Needles you can climb in the shade all day with some strategy.

Hope you ultimately find your trip rewarding!

S...
WBraun

climber
Aug 7, 2018 - 02:35pm PT
From what I understand as of now is Tuolumne and Tioga road is only accessible to the public from 395 to White Wolf.

The road conditions are in a dynamic situation and are changing when needed.
Inner City

Trad climber
Portland, OR
Aug 7, 2018 - 04:07pm PT
I saw road opening info on Yosemite National Park Instagram post...Big Oak Flat entrance open to Crane Flat and on to ghe meadows..no Valley access..
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
Aug 7, 2018 - 05:33pm PT
There is a fire north of Pemberton at the moment, but the air quality in Squamish this past weekend was quite good. If you can rearrange your itinerary and manage to do an ascent of the Diamond, you will not be disappointed. Do give yourself a bit of time to acclimate however. Here is a shot to whet your appetite.
Dominic

Big Wall climber
Peak District, UK
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2018 - 06:24am PT
Thanks Everyone for all the great beta! Really helpful and I'm certainly seeing a silver lining amidst the potential disappointment of not getting on The Big Stone.

Needles, High Sierra & Calaveras look like great options - I just spotted there's a new Needles guidebook out - any idea where I can buy one on the way from SFO?

Zion, The Black, The Diamond, Wind River and The Bugaboos(!) are all on the bucket list but probably best left for a longer trip in and out of another airport (and we can't change the tickets) but that might change when we see the smoke!

Keep the ideas coming...

Cheers

Dom

JerryA

Mountain climber
Sacramento,CA
Aug 8, 2018 - 07:59am PT
How about Tehipite Dome ? Unclimbed routes & you could also be first Brits . Alan Rouse was the only Brit I ever encountered in the Sierra outside the Valley .
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Aug 8, 2018 - 08:23am PT
Tehipite Dome in August? That’s some crazy talk! We’re talkin’ about Brits here, not Tuaregs!
phylp

Trad climber
Upland, CA
Aug 8, 2018 - 11:17am PT
The Needles is a gorgeous place and the rock is beautiful. You won't regret going there.

https://www.rei.com/product/117182/the-needles-climbing

Dom, the store called REI in the US, has two locations on your way out of town from SFO, headed south towards the Needles. The closest one is in San Carlos - it's right off the highway 101 exit 5 minutes from the airport. REI carries Kris' book and they may have it on the shelf but you can arrange for an in-store pickup at that location, online, see link above.

Other places where they might have one just sitting on the shelf is the Planet Granite Belmont climbing gym, also very close to SFO.

Both the gym and REI carry a good selection of California guidebooks. Probably they will both have the Croft guide to the high Sierra alpine routes. If you decide to do some eastside Alpine climbing after the Needles, getting from the Needles to the Eastside will probably be more easily accomplished by heading south from the Needles and going past Tehachapi and back up 395.
j-tree

Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
Aug 8, 2018 - 12:14pm PT
Moro Rock in Kings Canyon has some wall routes. Webcams show that it might be above the smoke layer http://www.skimountaineer.com/MtnWebCams/Sequoia-MtnWebCams.html?size=small

Needles Guidebook can be picked up at the Touchstone gyms in SF, Oak, and Berkeley
Kalimon

Social climber
Ridgway, CO
Aug 8, 2018 - 06:09pm PT
No fires in Colorado.

There are several fires burning in Colorado and we are having smoke issues too.

Pretty hot in the Black right now.

Good luck on your trip, you may even be able to do plan A.
Dominic

Big Wall climber
Peak District, UK
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2018 - 01:58pm PT
Many thanks again for all the great beta.

Hi Phylp - brilliant, I've got one pinned down at the gym - thanks!

Mighty Hiker - hello there! We won't make Facelift this year I'm afraid, and might not make it to the Valley at all at this rate... Fingers crossed and hope you are keeping well.

Cheers, Dom
Pilikoa

Social climber
Ventura
Aug 9, 2018 - 02:38pm PT
People with reservations at Camp Curry have been told they are reopening the tent cabins on August 14, if that's helpful. The evacuation order was lifted for residents of the Valley yesterday.

Campsite reservation holders are also being told that they can use their reservations on August 14 or afterwards. Yosemite Lodge is closed for clean-up until the 30th.

SO...I'm guessing they plan to open the Valley by the 14th...I think it may be a day sooner. Things went well the last couple of days on the firefighting front.
Urmas

Social climber
Sierra Eastside
Aug 9, 2018 - 03:35pm PT
Valkirie on Angel Wings. i've heard you can pull though the short crux. Or if you have to aid climb: The Devil Made me do it. You could have the second ascent.
Dominic

Big Wall climber
Peak District, UK
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2018 - 12:09am PT
Thanks Pilikoa - that's great news! We're packing "all the toys" so hopefully we're equipped for all options :-)
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
Aug 10, 2018 - 12:59am PT
Talk about job security ---the Lion (Mammoth) Fire is totally ridiculous.
They could have put it out with Aerial tankers etc the first day --but here we are 2 months later with the helicopters in and out all day doing little to nothing.
It must be nice.
shipoopoi

Big Wall climber
oakland
Aug 10, 2018 - 01:07pm PT
valley opening next tuesday, you could still do the NA . ss
Dominic

Big Wall climber
Peak District, UK
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2018 - 12:40am PT
Looks like Plan A might be back on :-)

Many thanks for all the useful advice - plenty of inspiration for a future trip.

If you are interested to see how this one turns out, you can follow progress on my blog: https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/

Cheers, Dom
Toker Villain

Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
Aug 11, 2018 - 08:00am PT
Get someplace dark tonight and look to the NNE after 11;00 for the Perseid meteor shower.
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