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Messages 1 - 30 of total 30 in this topic |
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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The Needles is probably best, since it's not blocked by fires at the moment. Many good multipitch 5.10s there.
https://web.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/needles/index.htm
The Hulk is good; 120 is open to reach it now, but not 108 at present.
Tuolumne Meadows, may be smoky, 120 open to reach it now.
https://inciweb.nwcg.gov/ Zoom in to California to see active fires.
Highway 120 (Yosemite NP) was blocked by Ferguson Fire, but reopened to Tuolumne (Valley may reopen on August 14).
Highway 108 (Sonora Pass) blocked by Donnell Fire.
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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Any chance you guys willing to drive a bit further given the constraints currently...?
How about the Black Canyon?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Perfect conditions here a few weeks ago!
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Inner City
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Well the Sierras are such a smoky summer range these days that I'd recommend going further afield.
What about the Tetons/Wind River combo. A long drive from SFO but high season in those ranges and great options for endless rock and mountain climbing.
With all the smoke and uncertainty in the Sierras, I'd consider that idea..
my two cents
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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we don't have any permits booked, obviously, so we are confined to open access areas or car-to-car Skip the obvious (i.e. busy) ranger stations in Mammoth and Bishop and hit Lee Vining instead for a walk-in Inyo NF backcountry permit with no line.
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johntp
Trad climber
Little Rock and Loving It
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+1 and five stars for the wind river range. Just what you are looking for. Add into it a nice chance to see other than the sierra landscape. Once you get out of the Cali traffic, the drive is a breeze. You'll have to hike in and camp out (backpack). It'll add to your pack weight but worth it.
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Inner City
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Tioga road now open for driving from west side (San Francisco, etc) through to Tuolumne Meadows, that would be a nice way to check out Yosemite smokiness and then bail to the east side for high country access or better yet, on to Wyoming!
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The Alpine
climber
The Sea
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Needles! Though I would check on smoke conditions there first.
But seriously... the Needles. That assumes you’re willing to climb 5.10.
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Tioga road now open for driving from west side (San Francisco, etc) through to Tuolumne Meadows
Am curious where you are getting this info?
from the CalTrans website:
http://www.dot.ca.gov/hq/roadinfo/display.php?page=sr120
SR 120
[IN THE CENTRAL CALIFORNIA AREA & SIERRA NEVADA]
IS CLOSED AT CRANE FLAT (TUOLUMNE CO) - DUE TO A WILDFIRE - MOTORISTS ARE
ADVISED TO USE AN ALTERNATE ROUTE
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Don Paul
Social climber
Denver CO
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No fires in Colorado. The Diamond is the only thing comparable in the lower 48
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skywalker1
Trad climber
co
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+1 for hitting the Needles. Then move on to Kings/ Sequoia NP? Needles you can climb in the shade all day with some strategy.
Hope you ultimately find your trip rewarding!
S...
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WBraun
climber
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From what I understand as of now is Tuolumne and Tioga road is only accessible to the public from 395 to White Wolf.
The road conditions are in a dynamic situation and are changing when needed.
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Inner City
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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I saw road opening info on Yosemite National Park Instagram post...Big Oak Flat entrance open to Crane Flat and on to ghe meadows..no Valley access..
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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There is a fire north of Pemberton at the moment, but the air quality in Squamish this past weekend was quite good. If you can rearrange your itinerary and manage to do an ascent of the Diamond, you will not be disappointed. Do give yourself a bit of time to acclimate however. Here is a shot to whet your appetite.
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Dominic
Big Wall climber
Peak District, UK
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2018 - 06:24am PT
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Thanks Everyone for all the great beta! Really helpful and I'm certainly seeing a silver lining amidst the potential disappointment of not getting on The Big Stone.
Needles, High Sierra & Calaveras look like great options - I just spotted there's a new Needles guidebook out - any idea where I can buy one on the way from SFO?
Zion, The Black, The Diamond, Wind River and The Bugaboos(!) are all on the bucket list but probably best left for a longer trip in and out of another airport (and we can't change the tickets) but that might change when we see the smoke!
Keep the ideas coming...
Cheers
Dom
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JerryA
Mountain climber
Sacramento,CA
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How about Tehipite Dome ? Unclimbed routes & you could also be first Brits . Alan Rouse was the only Brit I ever encountered in the Sierra outside the Valley .
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Tehipite Dome in August? That’s some crazy talk! We’re talkin’ about Brits here, not Tuaregs!
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phylp
Trad climber
Upland, CA
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The Needles is a gorgeous place and the rock is beautiful. You won't regret going there.
https://www.rei.com/product/117182/the-needles-climbing
Dom, the store called REI in the US, has two locations on your way out of town from SFO, headed south towards the Needles. The closest one is in San Carlos - it's right off the highway 101 exit 5 minutes from the airport. REI carries Kris' book and they may have it on the shelf but you can arrange for an in-store pickup at that location, online, see link above.
Other places where they might have one just sitting on the shelf is the Planet Granite Belmont climbing gym, also very close to SFO.
Both the gym and REI carry a good selection of California guidebooks. Probably they will both have the Croft guide to the high Sierra alpine routes. If you decide to do some eastside Alpine climbing after the Needles, getting from the Needles to the Eastside will probably be more easily accomplished by heading south from the Needles and going past Tehachapi and back up 395.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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No fires in Colorado.
There are several fires burning in Colorado and we are having smoke issues too.
Pretty hot in the Black right now.
Good luck on your trip, you may even be able to do plan A.
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Dominic
Big Wall climber
Peak District, UK
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2018 - 01:58pm PT
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Many thanks again for all the great beta.
Hi Phylp - brilliant, I've got one pinned down at the gym - thanks!
Mighty Hiker - hello there! We won't make Facelift this year I'm afraid, and might not make it to the Valley at all at this rate... Fingers crossed and hope you are keeping well.
Cheers, Dom
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Pilikoa
Social climber
Ventura
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People with reservations at Camp Curry have been told they are reopening the tent cabins on August 14, if that's helpful. The evacuation order was lifted for residents of the Valley yesterday.
Campsite reservation holders are also being told that they can use their reservations on August 14 or afterwards. Yosemite Lodge is closed for clean-up until the 30th.
SO...I'm guessing they plan to open the Valley by the 14th...I think it may be a day sooner. Things went well the last couple of days on the firefighting front.
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Urmas
Social climber
Sierra Eastside
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Valkirie on Angel Wings. i've heard you can pull though the short crux. Or if you have to aid climb: The Devil Made me do it. You could have the second ascent.
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Dominic
Big Wall climber
Peak District, UK
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2018 - 12:09am PT
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Thanks Pilikoa - that's great news! We're packing "all the toys" so hopefully we're equipped for all options :-)
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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Aug 10, 2018 - 12:59am PT
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Talk about job security ---the Lion (Mammoth) Fire is totally ridiculous.
They could have put it out with Aerial tankers etc the first day --but here we are 2 months later with the helicopters in and out all day doing little to nothing.
It must be nice.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Aug 10, 2018 - 01:07pm PT
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valley opening next tuesday, you could still do the NA . ss
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Dominic
Big Wall climber
Peak District, UK
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2018 - 12:40am PT
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Looks like Plan A might be back on :-)
Many thanks for all the useful advice - plenty of inspiration for a future trip.
If you are interested to see how this one turns out, you can follow progress on my blog: https://rockaroundtheworld.co.uk/
Cheers, Dom
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Aug 11, 2018 - 08:00am PT
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Get someplace dark tonight and look to the NNE after 11;00 for the Perseid meteor shower.
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