Two Brits arriving to climb NAW on El Cap next week - plan B

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 1 - 20 of total 36 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Dominic

Big Wall climber
Peak District, UK
Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 7, 2018 - 01:48am PT
Help - Advice needed! We're a couple of Brits arriving at SFO this weekend for a two week trip to The Valley and a planned ascent of North America Wall (we've climbed El Cap about 20 times between us). That looks like it might not happen, so we need a Plan B.
We'd really appreciate some local knowledge... Here's an idea of what we might be after and some constraints:
 generally longer rock and mountain routes (but happy to fit in the odd 'rest day' single pitch sport or trad
 it will be hot so high and/or shady would be good
 we don't have any permits booked, obviously, so we are confined to open access areas or car-to-car
 grade-wise I guess 10 to easy 11 for big routes and potentially nudging easy 12 for sport
Initial ideas might be The Hulk, Tuolomnee, other High Sierra? maybe The Needles? Lake Tahoe? Cardinal?
All suggestions welcome.
Cheers, Dom and Bill
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Aug 7, 2018 - 02:31am PT
The Needles is probably best, since it's not blocked by fires at the moment. Many good multipitch 5.10s there.
https://web.stanford.edu/%7Eclint/needles/index.htm
The Hulk is good; 120 is open to reach it now, but not 108 at present.
Tuolumne Meadows, may be smoky, 120 open to reach it now.
https://inciweb.nwcg.gov/ Zoom in to California to see active fires.
Highway 120 (Yosemite NP) was blocked by Ferguson Fire, but reopened to Tuolumne (Valley may reopen on August 14).
Highway 108 (Sonora Pass) blocked by Donnell Fire.
Delhi Dog

climber
Good Question...
Aug 7, 2018 - 03:11am PT
Any chance you guys willing to drive a bit further given the constraints currently...?

How about the Black Canyon?

hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
Aug 7, 2018 - 05:32am PT
high times, cal dome .11b &#40;aka silk road&#41;
high times, cal dome .11b (aka silk road)
Credit: Clint Cummins
elevation comparable to EC, improved aspect over NAW.
http://www.supertopo.com/tr/Silk-Road-to-the-Karakoram-Highway-a-Cal-Domes-mega-classic/t11736n.html
a good number of shady photos for an august ascent, minus early pitches
kingtut

climber
Jingus Newroutaineer
Aug 7, 2018 - 07:16am PT
The only place you would really have trouble with permits would be the Whitney area. Get a copy of Peter Croft's or the Supertopo guide to the Sierra an get ready to have epic adventures.

Mt. Conness, Hulk, 3rd Pillar, Merriam Peak, Cardinal Pinnacle, etc etc etc....these are all classics in their own right, so worthy.
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Aug 7, 2018 - 09:29am PT
Perfect conditions here a few weeks ago!

15C in the shade!
15C in the shade!
Credit: Reilly
Inner City

Trad climber
Portland, OR
Aug 7, 2018 - 09:38am PT
Well the Sierras are such a smoky summer range these days that I'd recommend going further afield.

What about the Tetons/Wind River combo. A long drive from SFO but high season in those ranges and great options for endless rock and mountain climbing.

With all the smoke and uncertainty in the Sierras, I'd consider that idea..
my two cents
looks easy from here

climber
Ben Lomond, CA
Aug 7, 2018 - 10:09am PT
we don't have any permits booked, obviously, so we are confined to open access areas or car-to-car
Skip the obvious (i.e. busy) ranger stations in Mammoth and Bishop and hit Lee Vining instead for a walk-in Inyo NF backcountry permit with no line.
johntp

Trad climber
Little Rock and Loving It
Aug 7, 2018 - 10:34am PT
+1 and five stars for the wind river range. Just what you are looking for. Add into it a nice chance to see other than the sierra landscape. Once you get out of the Cali traffic, the drive is a breeze. You'll have to hike in and camp out (backpack). It'll add to your pack weight but worth it.
Mike.

climber
Aug 7, 2018 - 10:50am PT
People don't normally think of Zion NP now, but that can work in favor. I rolled through in August and crawled up a trade route with almost no climbers around.

CA air, etc. probably best avoided.
WTF

climber
Aug 7, 2018 - 12:15pm PT
Change tickets to arrive in Vancouver BC and go to Squamish. The smoke here in Tahoe is unreal. And if itís bad here itís really bad to the south all the way to bishop I suspect.

Last night at south shore Lake Tahoe.
Last night at south shore Lake Tahoe.
Credit: WTF
Inner City

Trad climber
Portland, OR
Aug 7, 2018 - 01:27pm PT
Tioga road now open for driving from west side (San Francisco, etc) through to Tuolumne Meadows, that would be a nice way to check out Yosemite smokiness and then bail to the east side for high country access or better yet, on to Wyoming!
The Alpine

climber
The Sea
Aug 7, 2018 - 01:38pm PT
Needles! Though I would check on smoke conditions there first.

But seriously... the Needles. That assumes youíre willing to climb 5.10.
kunlun_shan

Mountain climber
SF, CA
Aug 7, 2018 - 01:43pm PT
Tioga road now open for driving from west side (San Francisco, etc) through to Tuolumne Meadows

Am curious where you are getting this info?

from the CalTrans website:
http://www.dot.ca.gov/hq/roadinfo/display.php?page=sr120

SR 120
[IN THE CENTRAL CALIFORNIA AREA & SIERRA NEVADA]
IS CLOSED AT CRANE FLAT (TUOLUMNE CO) - DUE TO A WILDFIRE - MOTORISTS ARE
ADVISED TO USE AN ALTERNATE ROUTE
Don Paul

Social climber
Denver CO
Aug 7, 2018 - 01:45pm PT
No fires in Colorado. The Diamond is the only thing comparable in the lower 48
skywalker1

Trad climber
co
Aug 7, 2018 - 01:49pm PT
+1 for hitting the Needles. Then move on to Kings/ Sequoia NP? Needles you can climb in the shade all day with some strategy.

Hope you ultimately find your trip rewarding!

S...
kingtut

climber
Jingus Newroutaineer
Aug 7, 2018 - 02:30pm PT
SR 120
[IN THE CENTRAL CALIFORNIA AREA & SIERRA NEVADA]
IS CLOSED AT CRANE FLAT (TUOLUMNE CO) - DUE TO A WILDFIRE - MOTORISTS ARE
ADVISED TO USE AN ALTERNATE ROUTE

Closed at Crane Flat SR 120 down to the Valley.

But open to Tuolumne per NPS.
WBraun

climber
Aug 7, 2018 - 02:35pm PT
From what I understand as of now is Tuolumne and Tioga road is only accessible to the public from 395 to White Wolf.

The road conditions are in a dynamic situation and are changing when needed.
Inner City

Trad climber
Portland, OR
Aug 7, 2018 - 04:07pm PT
I saw road opening info on Yosemite National Park Instagram post...Big Oak Flat entrance open to Crane Flat and on to ghe meadows..no Valley access..
wayne w

Trad climber
the nw
Aug 7, 2018 - 05:33pm PT
There is a fire north of Pemberton at the moment, but the air quality in Squamish this past weekend was quite good. If you can rearrange your itinerary and manage to do an ascent of the Diamond, you will not be disappointed. Do give yourself a bit of time to acclimate however. Here is a shot to whet your appetite
Credit: wayne w
.
Messages 1 - 20 of total 36 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Recent Route Beta