Herb and Jan Conn. Amazeing routes for the ages.

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jogill

climber
Colorado
Aug 9, 2018 - 09:11pm PT
When I made the second ascent of the ST I wondered about Herb (a lot shorter) and that stem across the gap.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Aug 10, 2018 - 07:20am PT
There are different gaps being discussed here. Nick was asking about the gap between the South Tower and Spire 4; that gap is too big to either bridge or jump. John is speaking of the gap between the South Tower and the West Gruesome, that gap is stemmed as part of the start of the South Tower route. See the map I added to a previous post.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Aug 10, 2018 - 05:21pm PT
Herb and Jan
Herb and Jan
Credit: forums.caves.org

Herb and Jan
Herb and Jan
Credit: ohb.hubpages.com

Jan tying in with Goldline and a bowlne
Jan tying in with Goldline and a bowlne
Credit: Living...MaeDean's Style

Herb patching up Mt. Rushmore
Herb patching up Mt. Rushmore
Credit: southdakotamagazine.com
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2018 - 04:44am PT
Super cool. hopefully the next time out there we will get a chance to get up Khayyam, South tower and East Greusem. outer outlet as well.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Aug 11, 2018 - 08:24am PT
The last three are Needles classics! Khayyam looks spectacular, but the regular route comes in from a ridge to the North and isn't really worth a visitor's time. Do Rubyiat instead. I've been told that God's Own Drunk on Khayyam is a good 5.8, but haven't done it myself. There is at least one route on Khayyam that comes close to that spectacular face; it clocks in at 5.12.

There are other classics (understand that my days in the Needles are, as Tom Higgins would have said, from Long Ago, and there may be many newer worthy routes---this is especially true of the area called Middle Earth, which had hardly had any routes when I was active).

I think two classics in the must-do category are the regular route on the Sore Thumb (5.9) in the Needle's Eye area and the Tricouni Nail (Cerberus) in the Ten Pins. In the Outlets, after doing the Conn Diagonal and rappelling off the backside of the Outer Outlet, and having lugged some big cams up with you, consider turning around and heading up the Nick of Time (5.10-).
jogill

climber
Colorado
Aug 11, 2018 - 04:43pm PT
Here are a couple of photos I forgot I had.

Tom Higgins on the Endpin and (I think it might be) Pete Cleveland on his ascent of Hairypin. I recall that Pete climbed a tree adjacent to the spire and put a sling up high to protect the bottom part of the climb. The top part looked hairy. This may or may not be him on that climb. It's possible it is Bob Kamps on the Endpin. I was terrible at keeping track of climbs back then.

tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2018 - 08:33pm PT
God's own Drunk looks stunning. It's also 5.9r in at least one book. Planning on having a real look at it next trip providing we are climbing well. I have been up Cerebus/Triconia but Isa has not. What a wonderful place.
Fan

climber
Aug 14, 2018 - 10:16am PT
John, having spent a considerable amount of time seeing Bob from that viewpoint, I don't think it's him, but am not absolutely sure.
Bonnie Kamps
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