Herb and Jan Conn. Amazeing routes for the ages.

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 66 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
jogill

climber
Colorado
Aug 5, 2018 - 07:56pm PT
Dave suffered a stroke in 2014 that left him debilitated on his right side, I believe. He was in therapy for awhile, then sold his home. He lives now at the Meridian Retirement Home at Table Mesa. I last talked with him in March of 2016. I can't find his phone number - he has never used a computer - but they will connect you with him I suspect. Like me, he still plays with math (number theory), or at least he did in 2016. He's 84 or 85.

If you call him give him time to get to the phone.




Shoulder stands: Empornadel 1930s

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Aug 5, 2018 - 08:22pm PT
wbw- Contact me at scgrossman (at) msn (dot) com.
Dave is doing fine but could certainly use some entertainment.
Check your email John.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2018 - 06:11am PT
the worm hole. shoulder was trying to pop out... much better here seems like they used this as decent route??
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Aug 6, 2018 - 01:47pm PT
The Conns believed you hadn't truly climbed a route unless you had also downclimbed it, so the chances are that they did descend that way. I don't know if they applied this philosophy to their hardest climbs or not. They didn't generally lead down their routes, but instead set up a rap anchor but used it for an upper belay for the second person down.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 6, 2018 - 02:03pm PT
The story is that they rolled a boulder out of the way so that they could down climb through this hole..
Cragar

climber
MSLA - MT
Aug 6, 2018 - 02:14pm PT
I don't know if tidbits like this are relevant on this thread.

I for one visit this site trying to find tidbits from folks like yuou, so keep 'em coming!!

I, regrettably never made it to the Needles of SoDak since my move to MT. This was because finding a partner for it wasn't easy..

Keep it up!!
wbw

Trad climber
'cross the great divide
Aug 6, 2018 - 07:30pm PT
Thank you for the update on Dave, Professor Gill and Steve.

Number theory is a pretty heavy topic to play around with. My elementary analysis course that I took, coincidentally while I was working for Dave, was the hardest course I ever took. . can't say I fully grasped it. Guess that's the difference between being a professor and a high school math teacher.

Steve, I'll be sending you an email. Cheers!
jogill

climber
Colorado
Aug 7, 2018 - 11:02am PT
Herb and Jan would boulder occasionally. They liked to do long traverses right off the ground. I seem to recall going out with them one time, but I can't recall if they accepted the use of chalk. Probably not. Rich?
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Aug 7, 2018 - 12:33pm PT
They never used chalk themselves as far as I know. I also don't know whether they had any reaction to others using it. In other words, I know nothing...
WyoRockMan

climber
Grizzlyville, WY
Aug 7, 2018 - 01:22pm PT
Looking back at the P1 belay from the top of P2 on Conn Diagonal.

Such a fun climb.

tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 7, 2018 - 01:54pm PT
Jason. where is that climb?
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Aug 7, 2018 - 01:56pm PT
Outer Outlet. https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105714734/conn-diagonal
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Aug 9, 2018 - 07:20am PT
The conn routes on the First Cathedral spire(on the left with the small block on top), Rubyatt (Spire in the lower right part of the picture), and East Gruesome are some of the routes I found most impressive.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2018 - 04:00pm PT
which one is east Greusem??
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Aug 9, 2018 - 04:04pm PT
Not in that pic; the Gruesome Twosome are on the south flank of Spire 4. In the pic below (from internet) Spire 4 is the highest pinnacle. (Actually, I think we are looking at the South Tower of Spire 4 and Spire 4 is either out of sight behind it or blends in too well to be distinguished.) The two pinnacles down the ridge to the right of the high point are the West and East Gruesomes. The East Gruesome is on the right, mostly in the shade, and has a rectangular shape from this perspective. We are looking at the west aspects of the Gruesomes; their east faces are on the other side, dropping down into the relatively wide 4-5 gully.


Here's their locations, using a sketch map Herb Conn used in an Appalachia article (June, 1953. See http://sylvanrocks.com/history_custer/custer_jan_herb_conn);.

tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2018 - 04:28pm PT
so when you climb the standard rt on spire 4 and then step across the void to the other summit you are actually on South tower?
mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Aug 9, 2018 - 05:55pm PT
No that is all part of spite 4. When you start the standard route below the worm hole south tower is on your right. It would be a longgggggg jump to south tower.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2018 - 06:04pm PT
But the description in guide says it is a long jump?? ;)
jogill

climber
Colorado
Aug 9, 2018 - 09:11pm PT
When I made the second ascent of the ST I wondered about Herb (a lot shorter) and that stem across the gap.
rgold

Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
Aug 10, 2018 - 07:20am PT
There are different gaps being discussed here. Nick was asking about the gap between the South Tower and Spire 4; that gap is too big to either bridge or jump. John is speaking of the gap between the South Tower and the West Gruesome, that gap is stemmed as part of the start of the South Tower route. See the map I added to a previous post.
Messages 41 - 60 of total 66 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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