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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jul 20, 2018 - 05:28pm PT
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I enjoyed it. The mean age of that crowd was definitely over 50. It struck me at some point that the younger generation does not seem to be so into this style. A few who have excelled are dead - Kennedy, Steck, Dempster, etc. The mountains in that cirque could indeed remain unchanged well into the future.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jul 20, 2018 - 09:42pm PT
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It's fun to follow the adventures of chasing a Last Great Prize. Sounds like everything's gotta be going for you on Latok 1, that skill alone can't see a team through. That's some stakes, right there. Big drama happening on this one soon.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jul 20, 2018 - 11:12pm PT
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That was a great slide show.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 21, 2018 - 12:57pm PT
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I met Roger, but it looks like I missed meeting some tacoans I've "known" for years.
edit; One thing that occurs to me is that after 30+ expeditions the route must be festooned with bail anchors, and yet one of the biggest challenges in '78 was having enough anchors to make 85 rappels.
In a way the attempts are making this route a more tenable prospect.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jul 23, 2018 - 10:21am PT
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All the best to you Jim, I think it might be your birthday today. Hope you have a blast and Pakistan and it is a great journey for everyone in attendance. I'm super jealous in a positive way :)
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johntp
Trad climber
Little Rock and Loving It
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Jul 23, 2018 - 02:33pm PT
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In August I am leading a 16 day trek in the Karakoram Range of Pakistan. The trek will traverse the entire Biafo Glacier to Snow Lake, then over the Sim La Pass to the magnificent Latok/Ogre cirque on the Choktoi Glacier.
Is this open? I can't make it but know someone that might be interested. If it's open, send me an email with details.
johntpenca@gmail.com
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2018 - 03:06pm PT
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The trek is closed for this year...we leave in one week. I will likely do it again in 2019.
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Nutty
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Jul 23, 2018 - 03:20pm PT
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Whoa Jim, you have been going there forty years ago and still going, congrats!
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Jul 25, 2018 - 09:54am PT
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Still shrugging suitors:
...Two Russian climbers in problems on Latok 1...
Two Russian climbers, Alexander Gukov and Sergey Glazunov called for help last night when they were well above 6,000 meters on the Latok-1. Latok-1 rises to 7.145 meters in Karakoram (Pakistan). If these names do not tell you anything, they are not beginners. In 2015, Gukov received a Piolet d'Or for its south-west opening of Mount Thamserku (6.608m, Nepal). As for Sergey Glazunov, he often climbs with his brother Evgeny and has opened several routes including some peaks of Siberia.
One of the two Russian climbers fell
After 30 minutes of search, the helicopters of the Pakistani army managed to find the two climbers. Alas, they were at an altitude and in an area that made any rescue impossible. The pilots dumped supplies and encouraged the two Russians to continue their descent to an extraction point where the helicopter could maneuver.
During their descent, it seems that one of the climbers has fallen. His current state is unknown. Helicopters are waiting for an improvement in the weather to relaunch to drop high-altitude carriers to the Latok base camp. The latter could quickly help the Russians in distress.
An expedition that had not started well ...
The mountain is particularly dangerous this season. Two days ago Victor Koval, another Russian climber, descended as best he could to the base camp. Hit by an avalanche, he arrived at the foot of the mountain with a helmet and some broken odds. Since the beginning of the expedition, most of the progress has been made at night. The day the way is much too unstable.
A Korean expedition trying its luck on the same summit was stopped by an avalanche at the end of June. Two climbers had been injured .
https://www.altitude.news/sports/alpinisme/2018/07/25/deux-grimpeurs-russes-perdition-latok-alexander-gukov/
Hoping for a good outcome for those fellas.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2018 - 12:22pm PT
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I’ll arrive in the Latok/Ogre cirque around 8/16. Evgeny Glasunov is climbing with his brother Sergey and Alexander Gukov on the North Ridge of Latok1.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 27, 2018 - 08:30am PT
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How is Gukov doing? What a nightmare.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jul 27, 2018 - 09:46am PT
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Since the beginning of the expedition, most of the progress has been made at night. The day the way is much too unstable. Sounds like really bad judgement to me. Sure you have to push it to get to the top of some of these things, but I'd have found something else to climb.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Aug 15, 2018 - 11:28am PT
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As The Donininosours says
they are due to arrive 8/16! Today or tomorrow
Got the Lights on !
& as a friend once said,on live dead
"& Keep 'em on!"
He also told me, while sipping juice,
at a fresh squeeze stand In Telluride;
"ya' woud do her, if ya could do her"
Not sure if he was talking Mountains though.
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