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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 8, 2018 - 07:29am PT
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When: 7:00 pm Thursday, July 19th
Where: Neptune Mountaineering, Boulder, Co.
All proceeds go to the Balti Children's Education Fund
In August I am leading a 16 day trek in the Karakoram Range of Pakistan. The trek will traverse the entire Biafo Glacier to Snow Lake, then over the Sim La Pass to the magnificent Latok/Ogre cirque on the Choktoi Glacier.
This will be the fortieth anniversary of the epic 1978 climb on Latok’s North Ridge by George Lowe, Jeff Lowe, Michael Kennedy and Jim Donini that after 22 days of continuous effort in often stormy conditions ended a hundred or meters or so from the summit plateau.
What followed was another four days of descent in continuous storm with no food and virtually no fuel replete with 85 mostly single anchor rappels.
In the forty years since our climb nearly thirty world class teams of aloinists have failed to finish the North Ridge....the closest team ended their climb 2,000 vertical feet below our high point.
In 2016 George and I along with Thom Englebach accompanied Thomas Huber’s team back to see if some evil mountain goddess was casting a spell. Thomas came back, once again, empty handed but is going back this year for another try.
This year there will be, in addition to Huber, two Russian teams and a Slovenian team trying to solve the riddle of Latok 1.
The show incorporates the 1978 climb and our 2016 visit along with some of the history of four decades of anguish on this singular peak.
Come see why Latok 1 has become the black hole of climber’s dreams!
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thebravecowboy
climber
The Good Places
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bump, y'know, for the effort. but mainly for the imagery.
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Jim Clipper
Gym climber
from the ground up
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May as well be another planet. Can't get here from there? How 'bout a link to the fund, for those who can't make it.
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Hey, I am actually in town for a good Neptune slide show. Should be fun!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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I'll be there!
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steveA
Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
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Jim,
Have fun with the Boulder crew. I'll be there in spirit.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2018 - 12:00pm PT
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Jim, I am calling it the “Balti Children’s Education Fund’” for the sake of simplicity for an American audience.
It is actually a German based non profit administered by Barbara Hirschbichter, a German educator, and Rasool her Skardu based husband. Thomas and Alex Huber are on the BOD. Bright children from remote mountain villages like Askole must relocate to Skardu in order to pursue their education beyond the fourth grade. The non profit provides free room and board for boys and girls from poor families. The below picture will explain a lot. Rasool is in the picture along with Thomas Huber.
CI have raised money from slide shows that I am going to present to Barbara and Rasool when I arrive in Skardu on 8/2.
Their current project is constructing a school with dorms for 300 children nearer to the villages. I will be visiting the site on my way to Askole.
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Don Paul
Social climber
Denver CO
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I'm looking forward to it!
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johntp
Trad climber
Little Rock and Loving It
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Wish I could be there.
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Would like to do that trek.
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Jim Clipper
Gym climber
from the ground up
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^ Doesn't look like the most comfortable place to pitch a tent and get the campfire going.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2018 - 08:21am PT
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There will be many places on the trek where you will be off of the glacier on solid ground...even some meadows.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
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Sounds like a great trek for a good cause in one of the most beautiful areas of the world!
Tea time in Skardu:
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Jim Clipper
Gym climber
from the ground up
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"Making the trek". I'm probably just being defensive, but I was thinking about being "there". Helluva a place to run a bed and breakfast.
Finally, there are many here with much more technical experience, but Donini's last picture, and the one uber (2nd?), might look great enlarged. Put a copy of them in the classrooms?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2018 - 05:02pm PT
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Picture bump
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goatboy smellz
climber
Gulf Breeze
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Thank's for the heads up, looking forward to being back in town.
This show will be another highlight.
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Mtnclan
Mountain climber
California
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Brilliant pics of a brilliant place! I wandered up the Biafo and under the Ogre in 1887 as a young punk. My friend and I had the good fortune to be taken in by Joe Brown and Mo Antoine for dinner in their tent. They were retreating from the horrendous weather that all experienced that season. I highly recommend a trip there; I'll bet it's still comparatively wild country- we saw ibex, and fresh brown bear tracks! It is way less traveled than the Baltoro route.
Best of luck up there!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 11, 2018 - 10:23am PT
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. I wandered up the Biafo and under the Ogre in 1887
Wow, you must be nearly as old as the OP.
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Roots
Mountain climber
Redmond, Oregon
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Jul 11, 2018 - 10:30am PT
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Bad ass!
Come to Bend...
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JelloFellow
climber
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Jul 11, 2018 - 06:07pm PT
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I’ve been out of the loop. Got wind of jim’s show last night. I’ll do my best to be there, probably with my brother, Greg.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2018 - 06:30pm PT
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That would be fantastic Jeff!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jul 11, 2018 - 08:14pm PT
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Gonna try to make it. It would be good to see you again. Heading to wyomistan
soon.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 12, 2018 - 09:52am PT
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Jello,
you ARE out of the loop. Greg will be in the Uintas with your other brother, Mike.
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Jim Clipper
Gym climber
from the ground up
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Jul 12, 2018 - 11:55am PT
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"probably", has to be repeated.
Also, not my business. Respect to all those that make these things happen.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2018 - 06:01am PT
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Bump...the show is Thursday.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Jul 17, 2018 - 06:40am PT
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Ron is that Layton Kor standing behind you in the picture?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 17, 2018 - 08:14am PT
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I’l answer for Ron...that is Layton Kor.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 18, 2018 - 07:02am PT
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One last bump to get the word out. Neptunes’s now has a bar in the store. Let’s belly up there around 6:00 pm.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 18, 2018 - 07:50am PT
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Was that really 8 years ago?
Jeff is up to his old tricks. Just texted me "Who's Mike?"
A bar at Neptunes? Do they sell time-shares?
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Bargainhunter
climber
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Jul 18, 2018 - 12:02pm PT
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Definitely worthwhile! I drove 1.5 hours to see this show in Seattle at Feathered Friends a while back. Donini's entertaining aura is guaranteed to improve your onsight lead ability by several decimal points.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 19, 2018 - 09:03pm PT
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note; Layton gave me the scorpion baseball cap.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 19, 2018 - 10:59pm PT
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Ron, thanks for coming to the show and getting that picture put together. Jeff’s laugh makes it really special.
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Tamara Robbins
climber
not a climber, just related...
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Jul 19, 2018 - 11:33pm PT
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Jim, sorry I missed the show, but I'll see you tomorrow night!
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silverplume
Trad climber
Boulder
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Jul 20, 2018 - 06:55am PT
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Thanks for the fun last night, Jim, and best of luck on the upcoming trek and climbing in Pakistan.
Here are a few photos for those who weren't there. Apologies for the quality- zooming in on a mobile phone in the dark.
-Tim
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 20, 2018 - 07:33am PT
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Thanks everyone for coming. We raised over $1,500 for the Balti Children’s Fund. It was great seeing Jeff woffing down pizza at the Southern Sun after the show.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 20, 2018 - 12:51pm PT
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Back home already. Direct flights from St. George make it a quick hop, and I scoped some approach trails near Capitol Reef.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jul 20, 2018 - 05:17pm PT
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Awesome. Wish we could have been there.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jul 20, 2018 - 05:28pm PT
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I enjoyed it. The mean age of that crowd was definitely over 50. It struck me at some point that the younger generation does not seem to be so into this style. A few who have excelled are dead - Kennedy, Steck, Dempster, etc. The mountains in that cirque could indeed remain unchanged well into the future.
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jul 20, 2018 - 09:42pm PT
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It's fun to follow the adventures of chasing a Last Great Prize. Sounds like everything's gotta be going for you on Latok 1, that skill alone can't see a team through. That's some stakes, right there. Big drama happening on this one soon.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jul 20, 2018 - 11:12pm PT
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That was a great slide show.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 21, 2018 - 12:57pm PT
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I met Roger, but it looks like I missed meeting some tacoans I've "known" for years.
edit; One thing that occurs to me is that after 30+ expeditions the route must be festooned with bail anchors, and yet one of the biggest challenges in '78 was having enough anchors to make 85 rappels.
In a way the attempts are making this route a more tenable prospect.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Jul 23, 2018 - 10:21am PT
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All the best to you Jim, I think it might be your birthday today. Hope you have a blast and Pakistan and it is a great journey for everyone in attendance. I'm super jealous in a positive way :)
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johntp
Trad climber
Little Rock and Loving It
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Jul 23, 2018 - 02:33pm PT
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In August I am leading a 16 day trek in the Karakoram Range of Pakistan. The trek will traverse the entire Biafo Glacier to Snow Lake, then over the Sim La Pass to the magnificent Latok/Ogre cirque on the Choktoi Glacier.
Is this open? I can't make it but know someone that might be interested. If it's open, send me an email with details.
johntpenca@gmail.com
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 23, 2018 - 03:06pm PT
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The trek is closed for this year...we leave in one week. I will likely do it again in 2019.
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Nutty
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Jul 23, 2018 - 03:20pm PT
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Whoa Jim, you have been going there forty years ago and still going, congrats!
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Jul 25, 2018 - 09:54am PT
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Still shrugging suitors:
...Two Russian climbers in problems on Latok 1...
Two Russian climbers, Alexander Gukov and Sergey Glazunov called for help last night when they were well above 6,000 meters on the Latok-1. Latok-1 rises to 7.145 meters in Karakoram (Pakistan). If these names do not tell you anything, they are not beginners. In 2015, Gukov received a Piolet d'Or for its south-west opening of Mount Thamserku (6.608m, Nepal). As for Sergey Glazunov, he often climbs with his brother Evgeny and has opened several routes including some peaks of Siberia.
One of the two Russian climbers fell
After 30 minutes of search, the helicopters of the Pakistani army managed to find the two climbers. Alas, they were at an altitude and in an area that made any rescue impossible. The pilots dumped supplies and encouraged the two Russians to continue their descent to an extraction point where the helicopter could maneuver.
During their descent, it seems that one of the climbers has fallen. His current state is unknown. Helicopters are waiting for an improvement in the weather to relaunch to drop high-altitude carriers to the Latok base camp. The latter could quickly help the Russians in distress.
An expedition that had not started well ...
The mountain is particularly dangerous this season. Two days ago Victor Koval, another Russian climber, descended as best he could to the base camp. Hit by an avalanche, he arrived at the foot of the mountain with a helmet and some broken odds. Since the beginning of the expedition, most of the progress has been made at night. The day the way is much too unstable.
A Korean expedition trying its luck on the same summit was stopped by an avalanche at the end of June. Two climbers had been injured .
https://www.altitude.news/sports/alpinisme/2018/07/25/deux-grimpeurs-russes-perdition-latok-alexander-gukov/
Hoping for a good outcome for those fellas.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 25, 2018 - 12:22pm PT
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I’ll arrive in the Latok/Ogre cirque around 8/16. Evgeny Glasunov is climbing with his brother Sergey and Alexander Gukov on the North Ridge of Latok1.
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Jul 27, 2018 - 08:30am PT
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How is Gukov doing? What a nightmare.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Jul 27, 2018 - 09:46am PT
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Since the beginning of the expedition, most of the progress has been made at night. The day the way is much too unstable. Sounds like really bad judgement to me. Sure you have to push it to get to the top of some of these things, but I'd have found something else to climb.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Aug 15, 2018 - 11:28am PT
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As The Donininosours says
they are due to arrive 8/16! Today or tomorrow
Got the Lights on !
& as a friend once said,on live dead
"& Keep 'em on!"
He also told me, while sipping juice,
at a fresh squeeze stand In Telluride;
"ya' woud do her, if ya could do her"
Not sure if he was talking Mountains though.
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