“Latok 1, the Holy Grail of Alpinism, “coming to Neptunes.

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donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 8, 2018 - 07:29am PT
When: 7:00 pm Thursday, July 19th
Where: Neptune Mountaineering, Boulder, Co.

All proceeds go to the Balti Children's Education Fund

In August I am leading a 16 day trek in the Karakoram Range of Pakistan. The trek will traverse the entire Biafo Glacier to Snow Lake, then over the Sim La Pass to the magnificent Latok/Ogre cirque on the Choktoi Glacier.
Latok 1 North Ridge
Latok 1 North Ridge
Credit: donini
Ogre 2: keft...the Ogre, right
Ogre 2: keft...the Ogre, right
Credit: donini

This will be the fortieth anniversary of the epic 1978 climb on Latok’s North Ridge by George Lowe, Jeff Lowe, Michael Kennedy and Jim Donini that after 22 days of continuous effort in often stormy conditions ended a hundred or meters or so from the summit plateau.
The 600 ft. knife edge traverse
The 600 ft. knife edge traverse
Credit: donini
Jeff Lowe
Jeff Lowe
Credit: donini

What followed was another four days of descent in continuous storm with no food and virtually no fuel replete with 85 mostly single anchor rappels.
George on the descent
George on the descent
Credit: donini

In the forty years since our climb nearly thirty world class teams of aloinists have failed to finish the North Ridge....the closest team ended their climb 2,000 vertical feet below our high point.

In 2016 George and I along with Thom Englebach accompanied Thomas Huber’s team back to see if some evil mountain goddess was casting a spell. Thomas came back, once again, empty handed but is going back this year for another try.
Thomas Huber with the Ogre in the background
Thomas Huber with the Ogre in the background
Credit: donini

This year there will be, in addition to Huber, two Russian teams and a Slovenian team trying to solve the riddle of Latok 1.

The show incorporates the 1978 climb and our 2016 visit along with some of the history of four decades of anguish on this singular peak.

Come see why Latok 1 has become the black hole of climber’s dreams!
thebravecowboy

climber
The Good Places
Jul 8, 2018 - 07:31am PT
bump, y'know, for the effort. but mainly for the imagery.
Jim Clipper

Gym climber
from the ground up
Jul 8, 2018 - 09:16am PT
May as well be another planet. Can't get here from there? How 'bout a link to the fund, for those who can't make it.
BruceHildenbrand

Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
Jul 8, 2018 - 09:18am PT
Hey, I am actually in town for a good Neptune slide show. Should be fun!
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jul 8, 2018 - 09:33am PT
I'll be there!
steveA

Trad climber
Wolfeboro, NH
Jul 8, 2018 - 10:47am PT
Jim,

Have fun with the Boulder crew. I'll be there in spirit.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2018 - 12:00pm PT
Jim, I am calling it the “Balti Children’s Education Fund’” for the sake of simplicity for an American audience.
It is actually a German based non profit administered by Barbara Hirschbichter, a German educator, and Rasool her Skardu based husband. Thomas and Alex Huber are on the BOD. Bright children from remote mountain villages like Askole must relocate to Skardu in order to pursue their education beyond the fourth grade. The non profit provides free room and board for boys and girls from poor families. The below picture will explain a lot. Rasool is in the picture along with Thomas Huber.
C
Credit: donini
I have raised money from slide shows that I am going to present to Barbara and Rasool when I arrive in Skardu on 8/2.
Their current project is constructing a school with dorms for 300 children nearer to the villages. I will be visiting the site on my way to Askole.
tradmanclimbs

Ice climber
Pomfert VT
Jul 8, 2018 - 01:49pm PT
Good stuff!
Don Paul

Social climber
Denver CO
Jul 8, 2018 - 07:24pm PT
I'm looking forward to it!
johntp

Trad climber
Little Rock and Loving It
Jul 8, 2018 - 08:59pm PT
Wish I could be there.
ddriver

Trad climber
SLC, UT
Jul 9, 2018 - 08:09am PT
Would like to do that trek.
Jim Clipper

Gym climber
from the ground up
Jul 9, 2018 - 08:12am PT
^ Doesn't look like the most comfortable place to pitch a tent and get the campfire going.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2018 - 08:21am PT
There will be many places on the trek where you will be off of the glacier on solid ground...even some meadows.
ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Social climber
Wilds of New Mexico
Jul 9, 2018 - 08:27am PT
Sounds like a great trek for a good cause in one of the most beautiful areas of the world!

Tea time in Skardu:

Credit: ontheedgeandscaredtodeath

Jim Clipper

Gym climber
from the ground up
Jul 9, 2018 - 08:43am PT
"Making the trek". I'm probably just being defensive, but I was thinking about being "there". Helluva a place to run a bed and breakfast.

Finally, there are many here with much more technical experience, but Donini's last picture, and the one uber (2nd?), might look great enlarged. Put a copy of them in the classrooms?
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2018 - 05:02pm PT
Picture bump
Moon over Latok 1
Moon over Latok 1
Credit: Thomas Huber
Bill Thompson

Ice climber
Marquette
Jul 9, 2018 - 06:24pm PT
See you soon Jim!
goatboy smellz

climber
Gulf Breeze
Jul 9, 2018 - 06:45pm PT
Thank's for the heads up, looking forward to being back in town.
This show will be another highlight.
mynameismud

climber
backseat
Jul 9, 2018 - 06:49pm PT
Please come to Seattle
Mtnclan

Mountain climber
California
Jul 9, 2018 - 06:52pm PT
Brilliant pics of a brilliant place! I wandered up the Biafo and under the Ogre in 1887 as a young punk. My friend and I had the good fortune to be taken in by Joe Brown and Mo Antoine for dinner in their tent. They were retreating from the horrendous weather that all experienced that season. I highly recommend a trip there; I'll bet it's still comparatively wild country- we saw ibex, and fresh brown bear tracks! It is way less traveled than the Baltoro route.

Best of luck up there!
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