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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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May 20, 2018 - 07:24am PT
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Understood. Just trying to get you pointed in the right direction for when you’re sick of crumbling limestone, and you’ve done everything at Lake Louise. 😉
Spectacular place. The Bow valley is absolutely overrun by tourists during the summer. Kind of like Yosemite, but the traffic is a bit better. Pick up the scrambles guidebook as a starting point for your adventures.
K
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Ben Harland
Gym climber
Kenora, ON
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May 20, 2018 - 10:04am PT
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I'm also curious to see if someone can offer up the current best options for car camping. Before around 2001, there was a great campground about two hundred yards from the Drake in Canmore. When this closed to tents, I moved down the road to a less desirable spot, but still convenient enough.
I remember camping in the park being inconvenient, but I'm basing this on getting stuck in the gravel overflow lot at Spray Lakes. Is Yam meadows still open?
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climb_eng
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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May 20, 2018 - 07:10pm PT
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No one has really talked about Jasper, which is too bad because it has a lot to offer. Lost Boys is an awesome crag, almost as good as Back of the Lake. Dune Wall near Mt. Edith Cavell has some awesome multipitch trad climbs on bomber quartzite. There's lots of fun Limestone adventures to have and it's much quieter than the Bow Valley. Quite a few good scrambles around as well; you should check it out!
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2018 - 02:00am PT
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is it in that scrambles book?
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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May 21, 2018 - 07:18am PT
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I want to second the request for pics and TR. I miss the Rockies a lot.
BAd
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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May 21, 2018 - 10:05am PT
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The sport/trad routes on quartzite at Lake Louise are quite good. Easy approach, spectacular setting, highly recommended.
Brewer Buttress on Castle Mountain (5.6) might make your list. Some may complain of choss but I didn't find it to be a problem. Some scree on the descent.
There may be some routes on Yamnuska that fit your grade limit. If so that would be worthwhile. In the same area is the Kid Goat which has a number of pleasant multipitch outings, many at or below 5.7.
One word of warning about Canadian grade ratings. A lot of what Dougherty calls Grade III may take longer than 4 or 5 hours.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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May 21, 2018 - 10:31am PT
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A few comments/suggestions assuming your limit is 5.9
Almost all long routes will have some choss even if 90% of the rock is good.
Half ropes are very useful and sometimes mandatory on long rock routes. Many of the long routes are more serious than their grade suggests.
You can do some good alpine climbs such as the East Ridge of Edith Cavell if you upgrade to light mountaineering boots and crampons. A route like this will be a highlight of your trip. The park Visitor Safety Specialists are a good source for info on conditions and routes. They are all internationally certified mountain guides and do a lot of climbing at all levels in the area.
Banff and Lake Louise will be a zoo at this time. Get off the beaten tourist trail
Brewers Buttress and Takakka Falls are good easy multipitch adventure routes.
Aftenroe is an excellent 9 pitch sport 5.7 on good rock near Banff but it could be crowded.
Forbidden Corner is an excellent 1000 foot 5.9 on Yamnuska but you have to be prepared to do some runout 5.8. Red Shirt (Yamnuska)is a classic 5.8 route (mostly 5.6) but the first 2 pitches are really greasy.
Ghost River has 2 excellent multipitch 5.8 routes, Bonanza and Consolation, plus there is good free camping in a wilderness area. Lots of scenic hiking possibilities.
Have fun and consider the area around Revelstoke to the west.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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May 21, 2018 - 02:19pm PT
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Castle Mountain if the approach isn't too much for ya.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2018 - 02:24pm PT
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thanks fort all the suggestions. My hip is really weak now. hopeing to hit the chiropractor before I leave and hopeing that time off from work and walking every day will hike me into health but who knows….. just have to see what happens. in 2016 we did some glacier crossing and ascents in our approach shoes and axes.. my scarpas are high tops and have decent poons on them isa's are not high tops but she used gaiters..
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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May 21, 2018 - 04:46pm PT
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Banff was fun in the 70's before the money poured in. Now it should be mostly avoided
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