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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 18, 2018 - 02:46pm PT
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Are there any easy peak scrambles or low 5th class summits that can be done reasonably CTC??? we will have approach shoes and light universal hiking crampons and axes if needed but no mountain boots or ice gear. late june early july???
Is there any moderate cragging simeler to Guides wall in tetons?? or anything with easy approaches??
best guide book?also a Glacier NP guide? only peak we have done in Glacier is Mt Reynolds. any other CTC peaks???
thanks, Much
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 18, 2018 - 02:58pm PT
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Define ‘easy’ and ‘peak’. Lotsa room for interpretation. 😉
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2018 - 03:13pm PT
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I have a bum hip that has hindered training.. easy CTC summit 10 miles ish and under 5.7and under for roped climbing if we have to carry rope and rack any real distance. 5.9 and under for cragging. I thought Mt Reynolds was pretty easy but was not injured and was well acclimated....
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Ben Harland
Gym climber
Kenora, ON
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May 18, 2018 - 03:16pm PT
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Are there any easy peak scrambles or low 5th class summits that can be done reasonably CTC??? All of the scrambles in Kane's guide are done car-to-car
https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5048-163/Scrambles-In-The-Canadian-Rockies-3rd-Edition
approach shoes and light universal hiking crampons and axes if needed You're set.
late june early july Some peaks won't be very dry by then, but many/most will, if I recall.
The most recommended would be Temple, because of the views and the quality of the approach hike through Larch Valley to Sentinel Pass. I really enjoy Mt. Edith, just outside of Banff. Waterton Lakes has a couple of quality scrambles and is a cool little town. I remember there being less near Jasper. Cougar Mountain can be icy and Roche Miette isn't pretty. The Miette hot springs are worth a visit though:)
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2018 - 03:24pm PT
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thank you! this is the kind of info we are looking for. how about cragging?
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Ben Harland
Gym climber
Kenora, ON
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May 18, 2018 - 03:48pm PT
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The cragging news is less good. I climbed the sport crags (Heart, Cougar Canyon, Grotto) years ago and I wouldn't recommend them. Others will know better, but have a look at Yamnuska, EEOR and Ha Ling/Chinaman's. If your hip is good for long alpine routes, I've heard great things about Sir Donald (~5.5 ridge). But that's near Golden and others will know better and, hell, why not just go to the Bugs:)
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Nkane
Trad climber
San Francisco, USA
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May 18, 2018 - 03:49pm PT
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Very interested in this as well. We're headed to Banff for 4th of July but my wife has a bum wrist and is limited from doing hard rock climbing. Would love some recommendations on scrambly alpine days.
Sounds like I should grab this Kane guide. Guy has a tasteful last name.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2018 - 07:12pm PT
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how about dispersed 4x4 van camping??? you can email me nick@nkgphoto.comwith that beta if you like.
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nah000
climber
now/here
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May 18, 2018 - 08:28pm PT
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here's the good shIt [as always, imesho]:
scrambles
1. kananaskis/canmore: big sister, lady mac*, ha ling*, heart loop*, smuts
2. banff: cascade, rundle*, edith
3. louise: temple [don't do this on a weekend]
4. icefields: dolomite
[from kane's scrambles guidebook with *= almost always good to go early season (pre mid june)]
easyish mountaineering ie. < 5.8 and shortish
1. banff: louis [kain or gmoser], castle [brewers or eisenhower tower]
2. louise: victoria [normal route]
[in dougherty's book o' lies - and yes that monicker is verrrry well earned: ie. if he says "some wanker climbed this in 3 hours in the mid eighties" take that to mean "a world class team of alpinists will take 8 hours, and most mediocre garden variety alpinists will need a bivy"]
sport climbing <5.9
1. back of the lake [louise]
[unfortunately most of the rest of the bow valley sport climbing only gets good the higher you go in the grades... a lot of the "classic" moderate crags (and harland already mentioned a bunch of them) are garbage. that said, if you climb 5.12 and up there are some sweet, sweet crags. less than 5.10? it's mostly loose, or greasy, or slabby, or in a lot of cases all three of the above at the same time. there are of course many individual route exceptions, but as a general crag wide rule i'd argue the above to be the case.]
"adventure" climbing
1. the ghost. can sometimes be a little tricky to get into, but worth it.
2. the bugs. no need to elaborate.
[the really good shit: the only real reasons you should come here to climb moderately, unless your goal is to learn how to climb loose shIt or slab]
have fun!
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2018 - 04:02am PT
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I am completely uneducated on the bugs??? how do you get there? what is the approach? etc, etc??????
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steve s
Trad climber
eldo
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May 19, 2018 - 04:45am PT
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Bugaboos are a great experience ! Then head to the hot springs to relax. Then head to The Back of the Lake (Lake Louise) for some excellent cragging. Like others have mentioned most of the limestone cragging is kind of scrappy. The wildlife and scenery are also awesome. Cheers.
Don't try and go during the Canadian national holiday. Not sure when that is.
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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May 19, 2018 - 05:37am PT
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I am completely uneducated on the bugs??? how do you get there? what is the approach? etc, etc??????
Google Earth is your friend
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2018 - 05:55am PT
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never tried google earth.. looked for the guide book but seems to be out of print???
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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May 19, 2018 - 08:17am PT
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Dunno. We always had a blast in the canyons around Canmore, but, yeah, most of the better climbing is 5.10 and up, but we found some good easier stuff, too, and the settings are divine. Great hikes up little creeks, trees, narrow, dramatic canyons. We loved it. Good advice on this thread. Makes me want to head back up there! As far as "dispersed" camping, that ship has sailed. You used to be able to do it back in the 80's, but everything is pretty much locked down these days. Be prepared to fork out for camping, and the parks pass isn't cheap. If you stay for longer than a week, if I recall, you'll end up with a yearly pass, which is $$$. Still, the Rockies are AMAZING.
BAd
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 19, 2018 - 09:30am PT
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just about every super classic [and therefore read popular/busy] climb in the bugs
It has been 25 years since I last climbed in the Bugaboos, but even back then, it had become a zoo. The Kain hut and the area around it (where most climbers stay) was an overcrowded slum, and every moderate route was swarming with climbers.
On the other hand, it is a fabulously beautiful place, with out-of-this-world climbing. Just be aware that you will be sharing it with what will seem like half the climbers in the world.
Perhaps someone who has spent time there more recently can update you on alternative camping sites. When the Kain hut was crowded, we wandered away and found some really nice spots, but I expect there are rules about that now.
Finally, regarding your requirement that approaches be easy on your injured hip: to climb in the Bugs, you'll have to carry in not only your rope/rack/etc, but also your food and camping gear. Unless something has changed, there's no car-to-car climbing there.
Wherever you wind up going, have fun, and report back in (with photos) when you're done.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2018 - 05:46pm PT
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just threw the bugs out there because I know next to nothing about them and someone mentioned them. we have 7+ weeks on the rad starting about june 11th and have no real commitments or firm plans yet....
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Scrubber
climber
Straight outta Squampton
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May 20, 2018 - 07:24am PT
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Understood. Just trying to get you pointed in the right direction for when you’re sick of crumbling limestone, and you’ve done everything at Lake Louise. 😉
Spectacular place. The Bow valley is absolutely overrun by tourists during the summer. Kind of like Yosemite, but the traffic is a bit better. Pick up the scrambles guidebook as a starting point for your adventures.
K
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Ben Harland
Gym climber
Kenora, ON
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May 20, 2018 - 10:04am PT
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I'm also curious to see if someone can offer up the current best options for car camping. Before around 2001, there was a great campground about two hundred yards from the Drake in Canmore. When this closed to tents, I moved down the road to a less desirable spot, but still convenient enough.
I remember camping in the park being inconvenient, but I'm basing this on getting stuck in the gravel overflow lot at Spray Lakes. Is Yam meadows still open?
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climb_eng
Trad climber
Squamish, BC
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May 20, 2018 - 07:10pm PT
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No one has really talked about Jasper, which is too bad because it has a lot to offer. Lost Boys is an awesome crag, almost as good as Back of the Lake. Dune Wall near Mt. Edith Cavell has some awesome multipitch trad climbs on bomber quartzite. There's lots of fun Limestone adventures to have and it's much quieter than the Bow Valley. Quite a few good scrambles around as well; you should check it out!
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2018 - 02:00am PT
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is it in that scrambles book?
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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May 21, 2018 - 07:18am PT
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I want to second the request for pics and TR. I miss the Rockies a lot.
BAd
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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May 21, 2018 - 10:05am PT
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The sport/trad routes on quartzite at Lake Louise are quite good. Easy approach, spectacular setting, highly recommended.
Brewer Buttress on Castle Mountain (5.6) might make your list. Some may complain of choss but I didn't find it to be a problem. Some scree on the descent.
There may be some routes on Yamnuska that fit your grade limit. If so that would be worthwhile. In the same area is the Kid Goat which has a number of pleasant multipitch outings, many at or below 5.7.
One word of warning about Canadian grade ratings. A lot of what Dougherty calls Grade III may take longer than 4 or 5 hours.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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May 21, 2018 - 10:31am PT
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A few comments/suggestions assuming your limit is 5.9
Almost all long routes will have some choss even if 90% of the rock is good.
Half ropes are very useful and sometimes mandatory on long rock routes. Many of the long routes are more serious than their grade suggests.
You can do some good alpine climbs such as the East Ridge of Edith Cavell if you upgrade to light mountaineering boots and crampons. A route like this will be a highlight of your trip. The park Visitor Safety Specialists are a good source for info on conditions and routes. They are all internationally certified mountain guides and do a lot of climbing at all levels in the area.
Banff and Lake Louise will be a zoo at this time. Get off the beaten tourist trail
Brewers Buttress and Takakka Falls are good easy multipitch adventure routes.
Aftenroe is an excellent 9 pitch sport 5.7 on good rock near Banff but it could be crowded.
Forbidden Corner is an excellent 1000 foot 5.9 on Yamnuska but you have to be prepared to do some runout 5.8. Red Shirt (Yamnuska)is a classic 5.8 route (mostly 5.6) but the first 2 pitches are really greasy.
Ghost River has 2 excellent multipitch 5.8 routes, Bonanza and Consolation, plus there is good free camping in a wilderness area. Lots of scenic hiking possibilities.
Have fun and consider the area around Revelstoke to the west.
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Brian in SLC
Social climber
Salt Lake City, UT
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May 21, 2018 - 02:19pm PT
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Castle Mountain if the approach isn't too much for ya.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2018 - 02:24pm PT
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thanks fort all the suggestions. My hip is really weak now. hopeing to hit the chiropractor before I leave and hopeing that time off from work and walking every day will hike me into health but who knows….. just have to see what happens. in 2016 we did some glacier crossing and ascents in our approach shoes and axes.. my scarpas are high tops and have decent poons on them isa's are not high tops but she used gaiters..
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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May 21, 2018 - 04:46pm PT
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Banff was fun in the 70's before the money poured in. Now it should be mostly avoided
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