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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 18, 2018 - 02:46pm PT
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Are there any easy peak scrambles or low 5th class summits that can be done reasonably CTC??? we will have approach shoes and light universal hiking crampons and axes if needed but no mountain boots or ice gear. late june early july???
Is there any moderate cragging simeler to Guides wall in tetons?? or anything with easy approaches??
best guide book?also a Glacier NP guide? only peak we have done in Glacier is Mt Reynolds. any other CTC peaks???
thanks, Much
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 18, 2018 - 02:58pm PT
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Define ‘easy’ and ‘peak’. Lotsa room for interpretation. 😉
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2018 - 03:13pm PT
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I have a bum hip that has hindered training.. easy CTC summit 10 miles ish and under 5.7and under for roped climbing if we have to carry rope and rack any real distance. 5.9 and under for cragging. I thought Mt Reynolds was pretty easy but was not injured and was well acclimated....
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Ben Harland
Gym climber
Kenora, ON
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May 18, 2018 - 03:16pm PT
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Are there any easy peak scrambles or low 5th class summits that can be done reasonably CTC??? All of the scrambles in Kane's guide are done car-to-car
https://www.mec.ca/en/product/5048-163/Scrambles-In-The-Canadian-Rockies-3rd-Edition
approach shoes and light universal hiking crampons and axes if needed You're set.
late june early july Some peaks won't be very dry by then, but many/most will, if I recall.
The most recommended would be Temple, because of the views and the quality of the approach hike through Larch Valley to Sentinel Pass. I really enjoy Mt. Edith, just outside of Banff. Waterton Lakes has a couple of quality scrambles and is a cool little town. I remember there being less near Jasper. Cougar Mountain can be icy and Roche Miette isn't pretty. The Miette hot springs are worth a visit though:)
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2018 - 03:24pm PT
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thank you! this is the kind of info we are looking for. how about cragging?
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Ben Harland
Gym climber
Kenora, ON
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May 18, 2018 - 03:48pm PT
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The cragging news is less good. I climbed the sport crags (Heart, Cougar Canyon, Grotto) years ago and I wouldn't recommend them. Others will know better, but have a look at Yamnuska, EEOR and Ha Ling/Chinaman's. If your hip is good for long alpine routes, I've heard great things about Sir Donald (~5.5 ridge). But that's near Golden and others will know better and, hell, why not just go to the Bugs:)
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Nkane
Trad climber
San Francisco, USA
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May 18, 2018 - 03:49pm PT
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Very interested in this as well. We're headed to Banff for 4th of July but my wife has a bum wrist and is limited from doing hard rock climbing. Would love some recommendations on scrambly alpine days.
Sounds like I should grab this Kane guide. Guy has a tasteful last name.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - May 18, 2018 - 07:12pm PT
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how about dispersed 4x4 van camping??? you can email me nick@nkgphoto.comwith that beta if you like.
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nah000
climber
now/here
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May 18, 2018 - 08:28pm PT
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here's the good shIt [as always, imesho]:
scrambles
1. kananaskis/canmore: big sister, lady mac*, ha ling*, heart loop*, smuts
2. banff: cascade, rundle*, edith
3. louise: temple [don't do this on a weekend]
4. icefields: dolomite
[from kane's scrambles guidebook with *= almost always good to go early season (pre mid june)]
easyish mountaineering ie. < 5.8 and shortish
1. banff: louis [kain or gmoser], castle [brewers or eisenhower tower]
2. louise: victoria [normal route]
[in dougherty's book o' lies - and yes that monicker is verrrry well earned: ie. if he says "some wanker climbed this in 3 hours in the mid eighties" take that to mean "a world class team of alpinists will take 8 hours, and most mediocre garden variety alpinists will need a bivy"]
sport climbing <5.9
1. back of the lake [louise]
[unfortunately most of the rest of the bow valley sport climbing only gets good the higher you go in the grades... a lot of the "classic" moderate crags (and harland already mentioned a bunch of them) are garbage. that said, if you climb 5.12 and up there are some sweet, sweet crags. less than 5.10? it's mostly loose, or greasy, or slabby, or in a lot of cases all three of the above at the same time. there are of course many individual route exceptions, but as a general crag wide rule i'd argue the above to be the case.]
"adventure" climbing
1. the ghost. can sometimes be a little tricky to get into, but worth it.
2. the bugs. no need to elaborate.
[the really good shit: the only real reasons you should come here to climb moderately, unless your goal is to learn how to climb loose shIt or slab]
have fun!
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2018 - 04:02am PT
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I am completely uneducated on the bugs??? how do you get there? what is the approach? etc, etc??????
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steve s
Trad climber
eldo
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May 19, 2018 - 04:45am PT
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Bugaboos are a great experience ! Then head to the hot springs to relax. Then head to The Back of the Lake (Lake Louise) for some excellent cragging. Like others have mentioned most of the limestone cragging is kind of scrappy. The wildlife and scenery are also awesome. Cheers.
Don't try and go during the Canadian national holiday. Not sure when that is.
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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May 19, 2018 - 05:37am PT
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I am completely uneducated on the bugs??? how do you get there? what is the approach? etc, etc??????
Google Earth is your friend
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2018 - 05:55am PT
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never tried google earth.. looked for the guide book but seems to be out of print???
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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May 19, 2018 - 08:17am PT
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Dunno. We always had a blast in the canyons around Canmore, but, yeah, most of the better climbing is 5.10 and up, but we found some good easier stuff, too, and the settings are divine. Great hikes up little creeks, trees, narrow, dramatic canyons. We loved it. Good advice on this thread. Makes me want to head back up there! As far as "dispersed" camping, that ship has sailed. You used to be able to do it back in the 80's, but everything is pretty much locked down these days. Be prepared to fork out for camping, and the parks pass isn't cheap. If you stay for longer than a week, if I recall, you'll end up with a yearly pass, which is $$$. Still, the Rockies are AMAZING.
BAd
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 19, 2018 - 09:30am PT
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just about every super classic [and therefore read popular/busy] climb in the bugs
It has been 25 years since I last climbed in the Bugaboos, but even back then, it had become a zoo. The Kain hut and the area around it (where most climbers stay) was an overcrowded slum, and every moderate route was swarming with climbers.
On the other hand, it is a fabulously beautiful place, with out-of-this-world climbing. Just be aware that you will be sharing it with what will seem like half the climbers in the world.
Perhaps someone who has spent time there more recently can update you on alternative camping sites. When the Kain hut was crowded, we wandered away and found some really nice spots, but I expect there are rules about that now.
Finally, regarding your requirement that approaches be easy on your injured hip: to climb in the Bugs, you'll have to carry in not only your rope/rack/etc, but also your food and camping gear. Unless something has changed, there's no car-to-car climbing there.
Wherever you wind up going, have fun, and report back in (with photos) when you're done.
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2018 - 05:46pm PT
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just threw the bugs out there because I know next to nothing about them and someone mentioned them. we have 7+ weeks on the rad starting about june 11th and have no real commitments or firm plans yet....
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