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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Apr 18, 2018 - 03:46am PT
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Gaurenteed no one would object if he was one of the cool kids... don't know if the park has a museam? if they do at least some of the mank should go there.. devils tower used to display fritz's shoes and rope but that is all gone now to make room for retail space...
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Apr 18, 2018 - 07:23am PT
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Thief of time.
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John M
climber
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Apr 18, 2018 - 07:36am PT
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Erik did say on the mountain project thread that he had donated some of them to Ken. If he replaces 20 bolts on a route, how many of them does he have to donate before selling the rest becomes OK? How many can a museum use?
I'm just wondering. I am not trying to defend Erik's actions. I don't really care either way. I just believe that people should be informed before they go after someone.
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WBraun
climber
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Apr 18, 2018 - 07:52am PT
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What do people who buy this junk do with it anyway?
Stare at it?
I've stared at these bolts and hangers when they were on the rock wall.
Why would you want to stare at a bolt on your wall at home?
:-)
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WyoRockMan
climber
Grizzlyville, WY
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Apr 18, 2018 - 08:09am PT
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Why would you want to stare at a bolt on your wall at home?
There is some utility in old hangers...
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Gail Hightower
climber
SE
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Apr 18, 2018 - 09:01am PT
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I replace bolts in the SE and plenty of people like them as key hangers or whatever. I've given loads of old hangers, from the 80s and early 90s, to people who come to trail days and all that.
I don't know anything about Sloan, but these old bits of trash are treasures to a lot of people who like having "the third bolt of x route" mounted on the wall and used to clip their keys. It is a physical connection to keep, especially to a place you perhaps can't visit as often as you'd like.
Seems better to me than throwing them all away, and helps keep the connection.
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Roger Brown
climber
Oceano, California
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Apr 18, 2018 - 10:55am PT
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Gail,
I replace bolts also and I have kept all of them. I agree with you that to most people they are junk but to some they just might be something special. I "bag and tag" usually the day of replacement. Each bolt/hanger in it's own baggie with a shipping tag on the hanger with date, route, pitch, and bolt number. If I have a bolt/hanger that really means a lot to someone I will just give it to them, and I have. If anything happens to me my wife will let Ken have first choice then give the rest to the grandkids and let them sell them on ebay. I have thousands from Yosemite.
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RURP_Belay
Big Wall climber
Bitter end of a bad anchor
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Apr 18, 2018 - 11:05am PT
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Hating on Roger = Hard
Hating on Erik = Easy
The crux is in the "why".
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Apr 18, 2018 - 04:34pm PT
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Erik is a kind person and a excellent wall climber, guidebook author, guess that makes him easy to hate on. The other guy doesn't climb, making him easy for ST members to relate. . .df
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Apr 18, 2018 - 05:28pm PT
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I just looked through some old pins that I have collected over the years. stuff that came out with only fingers.. a few were tagged and the writeing faded completely. others no tags. Some I think I remember where they came from. others no clue.. wish I had labled them better... same thing with the hangers...
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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Apr 19, 2018 - 08:40am PT
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In addition to the Maestri wedge listed above, I also have the original bolt from the Right Ski Track. The bolt held hundreds of falls, but it pulled with one swing of the hammer. Cracked half way through and rusty as hell It is available for only $1700
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kunlun_shan
Mountain climber
SF, CA
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Apr 19, 2018 - 08:46am PT
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It is available for only $1700
PM sent.
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RURP_Belay
Big Wall climber
Bitter end of a bad anchor
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Apr 19, 2018 - 08:48am PT
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^^LOL.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 19, 2018 - 08:52am PT
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Speaking of a Maestri wedge.
I left it in situ....hmmm, I also threw away my Mickey Mantle rookie card.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Apr 19, 2018 - 08:19pm PT
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I have an old fixed alumi-head or something that I ripped during a slab-slider on Coonyard Pinnacle. What's that worth?
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gruzzy
Social climber
socal
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Apr 19, 2018 - 10:06pm PT
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I've seen far too many ugly protection bolts in my few years of climbing.
I thank people who know how to replace bolts and actually do replace bolts.
Just like all the whiners here, I'm too lazy to do it!
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Scole
Trad climber
Zapopan
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Apr 20, 2018 - 07:25am PT
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No, Scole, I pulled that homemade Robbins bolt and hanger off Right Ski Track* and gave it to Gaines.
Ok, price reduced, only $1500 for the second crux bolt on Right Ski Track
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Apr 20, 2018 - 02:21pm PT
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Funniest reply on the MP thread
Erik, I'm interested in buying all the pussy bolts you've added to El Cap over the years and your epic bolt ladder and bail anchors in Church Bowl. How much are you selling those for? WOOT.
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karabin museum
Trad climber
phoenix, az
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Apr 22, 2018 - 08:10pm PT
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Ill gladly preserve your old bolts!
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Apr 23, 2018 - 08:00am PT
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any of you archaeological crusaders notice the recent paving of the oldest and most historically significant dwelling site in the Valley?
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