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Lennox
climber
in the land of the blind
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Dec 22, 2017 - 04:05pm PT
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After falling out of the flaring off-width squeeze at the top of the Bismarck when all my scumming was to no avail, and my vocabulary did not extend to “inverted arm-bar” which my partner was yelling encouragingly, I proceeded with a most graceful lie-back transitioning to a thrutching belly-waddle mantle that would’ve made a mama elephant seal proud.
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Footloose
Trad climber
Lake Tahoe
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Dec 22, 2017 - 07:38pm PT
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Jebus, you remember I Be Jammin?
That is where I learned the value of body scumming.
First time up IBJ I had no consciousness of body scumming
and I thought, Are you kidding me, this is so sandbagged!
First time, I tried climbing it like other dihedrals: red dihedral, hospital
corner, crescent arch, mithral are a few that come to mind.
What a difference body scumming can make! I just wish I could
use it more often on more routes!!
In fact, right now, I can't think of any route that lends
it so well to left-side body scumming as IBJ.
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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Dec 22, 2017 - 10:19pm PT
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"smear" is a precise foot move on the way up. "Scum"is an imprecise foot move as you are falling down. Sometimes "scumming" arrests the fall. "Scum"describes most moves on choss..heh heh
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