Latok 1...the Holy Grail of alpinism......slide show

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Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Jul 5, 2017 - 03:26pm PT
Good show. Caught it at Almo, ID last month. Even more fun than earlier Latok shows. A work in progress that gets better every year. Not to be missed.


Hoping to get you down here in LA for September or October show with AAC, CTAC, SCMA groups and more, perhaps in Pasadena.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 7, 2017 - 12:00am PT
Classic. Don Donini was in good form, as always. My favorite part was at the question portion following the show. A young climber asked how he studied the route or some such. I wish I could remember Jim's exact reply but suffice it to say, he was gracious enough in his reply to not embarrass the noob too much. The concept of no beta or even the word itself not existing was making the poor kid think. It was beautiful.
Ghost

climber
A long way from where I started
Jul 7, 2017 - 12:09am PT
What he said was that they'd seen a photo taken 30 or 40 years earlier by Eric Shipton.

What more could they need?
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Jul 7, 2017 - 07:39pm PT
Okay, Jim, you're done in Seattle. When's it gunna be in Boulder/Denver????
Bargainhunter

climber
Jul 8, 2017 - 02:15am PT
Very smooth presentation. Straightforward, understated narration about a stunningly bold and committing climb. Highly enjoyable to see him in person discuss such a landmark alpine endeavor, and to talk about future trekking trips near the area and his desire to climb various relatively puny several thousand foot walls, "Wouldn't that be fun?"

I think the young woman asking the question, "How did you research the route?", was a legitimate question. In the pre-internet days, there were plenty of great texts and early maps available at research libraries like UC Berkeley's where one could peruse things like Sir Martin Conway's early trips to the region etc. (see his 1894 book "Climbing and Exploration in the Karakoram Himalaya"). Shipton/Tilman's travel books provided nice detail as well. I think Galen Rowell described some of these types of early texts in preparation for his winter ski traverse through the Karakoram in 1980.
Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
Jul 8, 2017 - 03:37pm PT
I just noticed this announcement on Facebook.

This Monday, July 10, at 8pm, The Elephant's Perch is hosting renown alpinist and master storyteller Jim Donini. Last summer, Jim and his partners returned to the Latok/Ogre cirque located in the Karakoram mountain range of Pakistan where he had climbed previously in the 70s. Jim’s presentation will be about the climb in 1978 and about their return 38 years later. Come and see the most magnificent mountain cirque on the planet and learn why it has been a black hole for climber's hopes and dreams.

Jim must be working his way home from Seattle, with a Ketchum Idaho presentation. I'd be tempted to drive 90 miles & see it again, except Heidi & I were up there "beating the heat" in Idaho's mountains, for the last two days.

Currently, I am not enjoying 104 f. in Choss Creek.
Wayno

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 9, 2017 - 12:55am PT
Holy hell, Fritz. I don't do well at 104. Even if it is "dry" heat. You need a basement at Choss creek. Dig out a nice root cellar and you can hang out there during "inferno" days. I think Herr Donini could give a couple of days notice just about anywhere right now and get a good crowd. God bless him, even though he claims he doesn't believe in god. I believe he is touched, but what do i know. The Holy Grail...
Fritz

Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
Jul 9, 2017 - 07:45am PT
Wayno: Weeks of plus-100 f. temps are a bit of a downer, but we do have air-conditioning, our nearby spring creek with a waterfall & shady wading pool, & of course the river for floating.


Mostly, I just go to the mountains.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2017 - 03:06pm PT
Classic shot Fritz.....beating the heat the Hagerman way.

Bill....I loved my years at the Munising Ice Festival....super friendly group of people. Unfortunately, our winters now always find us in Patagonia.
Messages 41 - 49 of total 49 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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