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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 14, 2017 - 03:42pm PT
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George Lowe, Thom Englebach and I accompanied Thomas Huber and his german partners last August to the crucible of modern alpinism....the Latok/Ogre cirque. Three peaks Latok 1, Ogre 2 and the Ogre lie shoulder to shoulder and present, arguably, the world's most difficult summits to reach.
More than forty worldclass climbing teams have tackled these peaks northern aspects from the Choctoi Glacier with only one success....Hayden Kennedy and Kyle Dempster's route on the Ogre.
In 1978 George and Jeff Lowe, Michael Kennedy and I attempted the North Ridge of Latok 1. 26 days later hampered by the unrelenting dufficulties and two major storms we reached the Choctoi Glacier (barely) having turned around 100 vertical metres or so from the summit. In the ensuing 38 years at least 27 teams of worldclass climbers have tried to finish the job and none have gotten closer than 2,000 vertcal feet below our high point.
What to think....is some evil mountain goddess casting a spell? George and I went back to Latok with Thomas Huber to find some answers.
The show will be about our climb in 1978 and about our return 38 years later. Come and see the most magnificent mountain cirque on the planet and learn why it has been a black hole for climber's hopes.
Where...The Feathered Friends store in Seattle (love their sleeping bags!)
When...7:00 PM Thursday July 6th
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clode
Trad climber
portland, or
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Jun 14, 2017 - 03:46pm PT
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Holy Grail, Batman! It sounds like a gripping and entertaining armchair adventure! Wish I could be there!
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jun 14, 2017 - 05:02pm PT
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Surely this collection of tales is worthy of a book. Not that I consider myself a climber; more like that guy George Plimpton without the writing skillz. But Patty and I would go to this slide show if it were closer. The book is something to consider, IF you ever slow down.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 14, 2017 - 05:07pm PT
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Well, shit! I think the last time I was in the Feathered Friends store was a couple of years ago when you put on a show about partnerships.
Maybe it's time I went back.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Jun 14, 2017 - 05:08pm PT
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I would buy a book
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feralfae
Boulder climber
in the midst of a metaphysical mystery
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Jun 14, 2017 - 05:24pm PT
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Could you get someone to video the presentation and images so you can put it up on YouTube?
It would be good to see this, so hope you can do a video TR for us.
Thank you for letting us know about it.
ff
Or a book, definitely worthy of a book.
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rwedgee
Ice climber
CA
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Jun 14, 2017 - 05:55pm PT
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Global warming will get rid of that pesky snow and ice soon enough and you will be able to climb it in T shirts. And a chalk bag.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Jun 14, 2017 - 06:19pm PT
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i'd like to ask GL if he's prouder of climbing North Twin or failing on Latok
would guess NT
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2017 - 06:23pm PT
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You might be wrong
George did things in the Canadian Rockies that were way ahead of their time but he has always felt that the Himalayas were the ultimate test for an alpinist.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Jun 14, 2017 - 06:38pm PT
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but I might be right
donini -- as I type I am literally looking at the South Face of the IDS Tower. Proud obelisk!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2017 - 06:43pm PT
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The IDS tower....my proudest moment!
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MikeL
Social climber
Southern Arizona
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Jun 14, 2017 - 06:49pm PT
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Wish we still lived there. Would love to attend.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Jun 14, 2017 - 06:49pm PT
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IDS = Is Donini Sane?
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c wilmot
climber
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Jun 14, 2017 - 08:07pm PT
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An autobiography is seriously in order. I would love to read a book about such exploits
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jun 14, 2017 - 08:20pm PT
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When will it travel to Boulder/Denver, JD?????
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jun 14, 2017 - 09:21pm PT
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And when will it travel to Almo? We can do it!
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jun 14, 2017 - 10:42pm PT
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"...why it has been a black hole for climber's hopes".
Great line. I'll be in the Seattle area 3 weeks after this. How annoying!
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Jun 15, 2017 - 06:24am PT
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Looks fantastic. Hope there's a CA show in the future.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2017 - 06:25am PT
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BigB
Trad climber
Red Rock
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Jun 15, 2017 - 07:43am PT
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AWESOME!!!^^^
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