Discussion Topic |
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 14, 2017 - 03:42pm PT
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George Lowe, Thom Englebach and I accompanied Thomas Huber and his german partners last August to the crucible of modern alpinism....the Latok/Ogre cirque. Three peaks Latok 1, Ogre 2 and the Ogre lie shoulder to shoulder and present, arguably, the world's most difficult summits to reach.
More than forty worldclass climbing teams have tackled these peaks northern aspects from the Choctoi Glacier with only one success....Hayden Kennedy and Kyle Dempster's route on the Ogre.
In 1978 George and Jeff Lowe, Michael Kennedy and I attempted the North Ridge of Latok 1. 26 days later hampered by the unrelenting dufficulties and two major storms we reached the Choctoi Glacier (barely) having turned around 100 vertical metres or so from the summit. In the ensuing 38 years at least 27 teams of worldclass climbers have tried to finish the job and none have gotten closer than 2,000 vertcal feet below our high point.
What to think....is some evil mountain goddess casting a spell? George and I went back to Latok with Thomas Huber to find some answers.
The show will be about our climb in 1978 and about our return 38 years later. Come and see the most magnificent mountain cirque on the planet and learn why it has been a black hole for climber's hopes.
Where...The Feathered Friends store in Seattle (love their sleeping bags!)
When...7:00 PM Thursday July 6th
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clode
Trad climber
portland, or
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Jun 14, 2017 - 03:46pm PT
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Holy Grail, Batman! It sounds like a gripping and entertaining armchair adventure! Wish I could be there!
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Jun 14, 2017 - 05:02pm PT
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Surely this collection of tales is worthy of a book. Not that I consider myself a climber; more like that guy George Plimpton without the writing skillz. But Patty and I would go to this slide show if it were closer. The book is something to consider, IF you ever slow down.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jun 14, 2017 - 05:07pm PT
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Well, shit! I think the last time I was in the Feathered Friends store was a couple of years ago when you put on a show about partnerships.
Maybe it's time I went back.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Jun 14, 2017 - 05:08pm PT
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I would buy a book
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feralfae
Boulder climber
in the midst of a metaphysical mystery
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Jun 14, 2017 - 05:24pm PT
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Could you get someone to video the presentation and images so you can put it up on YouTube?
It would be good to see this, so hope you can do a video TR for us.
Thank you for letting us know about it.
ff
Or a book, definitely worthy of a book.
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rwedgee
Ice climber
CA
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Jun 14, 2017 - 05:55pm PT
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Global warming will get rid of that pesky snow and ice soon enough and you will be able to climb it in T shirts. And a chalk bag.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Jun 14, 2017 - 06:19pm PT
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i'd like to ask GL if he's prouder of climbing North Twin or failing on Latok
would guess NT
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2017 - 06:23pm PT
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You might be wrong
George did things in the Canadian Rockies that were way ahead of their time but he has always felt that the Himalayas were the ultimate test for an alpinist.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Jun 14, 2017 - 06:38pm PT
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but I might be right
donini -- as I type I am literally looking at the South Face of the IDS Tower. Proud obelisk!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 14, 2017 - 06:43pm PT
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The IDS tower....my proudest moment!
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MikeL
Social climber
Southern Arizona
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Jun 14, 2017 - 06:49pm PT
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Wish we still lived there. Would love to attend.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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Jun 14, 2017 - 06:49pm PT
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IDS = Is Donini Sane?
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c wilmot
climber
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Jun 14, 2017 - 08:07pm PT
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An autobiography is seriously in order. I would love to read a book about such exploits
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Jun 14, 2017 - 08:20pm PT
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When will it travel to Boulder/Denver, JD?????
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jun 14, 2017 - 09:21pm PT
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And when will it travel to Almo? We can do it!
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Jun 14, 2017 - 10:42pm PT
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"...why it has been a black hole for climber's hopes".
Great line. I'll be in the Seattle area 3 weeks after this. How annoying!
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crankster
Trad climber
No. Tahoe
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Jun 15, 2017 - 06:24am PT
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Looks fantastic. Hope there's a CA show in the future.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2017 - 06:25am PT
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BigB
Trad climber
Red Rock
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Jun 15, 2017 - 07:43am PT
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AWESOME!!!^^^
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aldude
climber
Monument Manor
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Jun 15, 2017 - 10:57am PT
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MEGA !
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CascadeOtto
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 15, 2017 - 11:27am PT
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At last, something on the taco I can actually attend! That store is where I buy gear, including sleeping bags. I'm looking forward to it, thanks donini,
Bill Enger
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Larry Nelson
Social climber
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Jun 15, 2017 - 11:45am PT
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Nice photos.
I like feralfae's suggestion of making a video and posting on YouTube.
Why not? It might even be lucrative in a materialistic way ;-)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 15, 2017 - 12:15pm PT
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I plan on recording the evening so that will certainly be available after the event at some point. Don't miss this event in any case.
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Jun 15, 2017 - 12:31pm PT
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is anyone driving from Vancouver,BC for the event with the plan on arriving back later that night?
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Stewart Johnson
Mountain climber
lake forest
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Jun 15, 2017 - 02:29pm PT
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Wish I could make it!
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 15, 2017 - 05:10pm PT
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I actually remember that show Tami...lots of fun!
The young ladies of Skardu welcome you! They all chuckled when someone told them that westerners thought Pakistan was dangerous.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Jun 15, 2017 - 07:39pm PT
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Yeah! I was at that Leavenworth Donini slideshow too. He was so damn skinny, from his near-death adventure.
First climbing slideshow I ever enjoyed in a bar.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Jun 16, 2017 - 10:00am PT
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Another vote for Boulder show. Neptunes would be cool.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2017 - 10:18am PT
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Boulder will definetly happen....always looking for an excuse to visit.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 25, 2017 - 07:52pm PT
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Bump for a great show coming to Seattle.
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Jun 27, 2017 - 06:38am PT
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Hey MH,
I'd be super keen to join in on the carpool. I can meet at yvr or anywhere close to border :) returning that night or am works
Dom
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
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Jun 27, 2017 - 07:33am PT
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The Ogre's in sepia-tone...
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renzo
Trad climber
Whitefish Mt
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Jun 27, 2017 - 03:02pm PT
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I remember when Jim gave a slide show of this most beautiful and dangerous route in Aspen, I think the slide show was more dangerous...,
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Bill Thompson
Ice climber
Marquette
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Jun 27, 2017 - 06:28pm PT
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Hey Jim, how about a return to Ice Fest to give this show.....we have a bigger more appropriate stage for you now!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Bump for some serious fun next Thursday at Feathered friends in Seattle!
Don't miss it and make sure to call them to reserve your spot today.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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They're not taking reservations. I called and they said you just have to show up and take your chance.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2017 - 05:29pm PT
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Got to Seattle after some nice river trips in Oregon. Hope to see some of you on Thursday night!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Bump for Big Fun tomorrow night!
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Good show. Caught it at Almo, ID last month. Even more fun than earlier Latok shows. A work in progress that gets better every year. Not to be missed.
Hoping to get you down here in LA for September or October show with AAC, CTAC, SCMA groups and more, perhaps in Pasadena.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Classic. Don Donini was in good form, as always. My favorite part was at the question portion following the show. A young climber asked how he studied the route or some such. I wish I could remember Jim's exact reply but suffice it to say, he was gracious enough in his reply to not embarrass the noob too much. The concept of no beta or even the word itself not existing was making the poor kid think. It was beautiful.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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What he said was that they'd seen a photo taken 30 or 40 years earlier by Eric Shipton.
What more could they need?
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Okay, Jim, you're done in Seattle. When's it gunna be in Boulder/Denver????
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Bargainhunter
climber
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Very smooth presentation. Straightforward, understated narration about a stunningly bold and committing climb. Highly enjoyable to see him in person discuss such a landmark alpine endeavor, and to talk about future trekking trips near the area and his desire to climb various relatively puny several thousand foot walls, "Wouldn't that be fun?"
I think the young woman asking the question, "How did you research the route?", was a legitimate question. In the pre-internet days, there were plenty of great texts and early maps available at research libraries like UC Berkeley's where one could peruse things like Sir Martin Conway's early trips to the region etc. (see his 1894 book "Climbing and Exploration in the Karakoram Himalaya"). Shipton/Tilman's travel books provided nice detail as well. I think Galen Rowell described some of these types of early texts in preparation for his winter ski traverse through the Karakoram in 1980.
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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I just noticed this announcement on Facebook.
This Monday, July 10, at 8pm, The Elephant's Perch is hosting renown alpinist and master storyteller Jim Donini. Last summer, Jim and his partners returned to the Latok/Ogre cirque located in the Karakoram mountain range of Pakistan where he had climbed previously in the 70s. Jim’s presentation will be about the climb in 1978 and about their return 38 years later. Come and see the most magnificent mountain cirque on the planet and learn why it has been a black hole for climber's hopes and dreams.
Jim must be working his way home from Seattle, with a Ketchum Idaho presentation. I'd be tempted to drive 90 miles & see it again, except Heidi & I were up there "beating the heat" in Idaho's mountains, for the last two days.
Currently, I am not enjoying 104 f. in Choss Creek.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Holy hell, Fritz. I don't do well at 104. Even if it is "dry" heat. You need a basement at Choss creek. Dig out a nice root cellar and you can hang out there during "inferno" days. I think Herr Donini could give a couple of days notice just about anywhere right now and get a good crowd. God bless him, even though he claims he doesn't believe in god. I believe he is touched, but what do i know. The Holy Grail...
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Fritz
Social climber
Choss Creek, ID
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Wayno: Weeks of plus-100 f. temps are a bit of a downer, but we do have air-conditioning, our nearby spring creek with a waterfall & shady wading pool, & of course the river for floating.
Mostly, I just go to the mountains.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2017 - 03:06pm PT
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Classic shot Fritz.....beating the heat the Hagerman way.
Bill....I loved my years at the Munising Ice Festival....super friendly group of people. Unfortunately, our winters now always find us in Patagonia.
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