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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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caveat: I've never done it. I've never even considered it.
With simul rapping you have doubled the probability of human failure while on rappel. This in itself is cause for concern.
Communications between the persons may be enhanced, or not. Either way communication is more critical. I can see this being a major problem if the climbers haven't climbed together often or if one is not very experienced.
I'd have to be in a helluva hurry to try it. And that itself is a major contributor to accidents.
This is not to say I'd never do it but I'd need a very good reason.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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With simul rapping you have doubled the probability of human failure while on rappel...
I would say the risk doesn't go up in a linear fashion, but rather exponentially; so four times the probability of human failure.
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Social climber
SLO, Ca
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I've rapped off of stuff with lightening blasting all around, rapped all night in Patagonia, got off of something in the Karakoram, blah blah blah, all without ever having done a single simul rap. I just don't believe there is any justification for doing it. Maybe it's a nifty trick for totally dialed in partners but it certainly shouldn't be presented as any sort of mainstream or preferred method.
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rbord
Boulder climber
atlanta
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Mainstream or preferred method? You mean like the way Honnold got up El Cap? In the mainstream or preferred method of getting our kicks, and in the mainstream and preferred method of celebrating our mainstream and preferred heroes, we rock and mountain climbers might have a slightly warped sense of what is mainstream and preferred for humans. Sure, simul rappers probably have a warped sense of it too.
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PS in Portland
Trad climber
Portland, OR
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Jun 13, 2017 - 05:56pm PT
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Matt and those of you who blithely agree that this is a case of "Darwin in Action",
I knew Shelby, and I know his climbing partner. Both were experienced, conscientious climbers and climbing team members. Both mentored younger climbers, and were well-loved by their peers. Both were serious students who were dedicated to environmental issues. They were shining examples of human potential, and if you had actually known them, you would have been proud to consider yourself a member of their community.
Accidents happen. You weren't there, so you really don't know why this one did, but it will haunt Shelby's climbing partner and his friends forever. Your words only dig the knife deeper.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Jun 13, 2017 - 07:17pm PT
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I think everyones hearts go out to all involved in this. Sorry for the loss of your friend PS, and the lasting damage. I've seen my share of rapping accidents, and its why I feel so strongly against simul rapping for common usuage. The person that made the Darwin comment probably wasn't directing it at your friends, but more so at the whole simul rapping popularity lately, as was I.
Unfortunately, anyone one of us could have made the mistake your friend did with the rope getting away from him.
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Bad Climber
Trad climber
The Lawless Border Regions
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Jun 14, 2017 - 06:23am PT
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Yes, PS, we all feel this to some degree. He was a member of our tribe, and we ALL--if we're being honest--have been in situations where one more simple mistake would have meant the end. This is just really tragic. Maybe not the place for this, but the extra caution around simul-rapping is a good discussion to have. I think if Werner has gotten by without it, most of us can, too. As for me, I out-weigh my wife by about eighty pounds, so it ain't happin' with her!
RIP to a brother. There but for the grace of God go all of us.
BAd
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