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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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May 29, 2017 - 01:58pm PT
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^^^ With two whole posts to the handle, one of which is the above, it's a pretty pathetic troll attempt.
Try harder.
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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May 29, 2017 - 02:17pm PT
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zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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May 29, 2017 - 02:27pm PT
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Let the new kids decide whats best for their generation.
Sounds great.
Except that when you New Kids decide that degrading existing rock climbs is best for yourselves, it robs subsequent generations of the option to do the climbs as they were before. Or, does your approach to the great outdoors include returning the rock to its previous state, once you decide that climbing is boring, and you move onto some other activity?
You do realize, don't you, that your generation will not be the last to climb the rock? And, that the Even Newer Kids will probably not agree that retrobolting existing climbs, to make them easier, is a good idea.
There is only one Nose Route, and when it gets retrobolted, chipped and epoxied, it will be GONE. It will no longer be the classic rock climb that it used to be.
Permanently altering existing rock climbs screws things up forever.
I guess you New Kids are a bunch of nihilists, judging by how you venerate and worship Eric Sloan, as he goes about his demonic business of ruining Yosemite's classic (and not so classic) rock climbs.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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May 29, 2017 - 03:20pm PT
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All good points, Tom. But you're feeding the troll.
Climbers get it, and non-climbers can't be swayed by argument, as we've seen.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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May 29, 2017 - 07:06pm PT
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Gym climbers untie!
Majo is a troll.
Assuming it is an actual gym climber, I fixed its quote for it.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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May 29, 2017 - 11:16pm PT
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Gym climbers untie! Wall played!
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Spanky
Social climber
boulder co
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2017 - 08:40am PT
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Hey Madbolter,
I'm not a troll. I've posted over 200 times (not that many, I have a life) and I climbed el cap last year. When the last time you did a wall?
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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May 30, 2017 - 08:47am PT
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Just an FYI but I think Madbolter was talking about Majo and not you Spanky.
Don't forget, "Any Press is Good Press"
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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May 30, 2017 - 10:55am PT
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Spanky, I'm not sure how you thought I was calling you a troll. There are others here that are, but, as you see above, I responded to your post treating you as a real contributor to the discussion.
I've climbed El Cap a few times, and I'm in the middle of an FA at the Fisher Towers right now. So, I still get after it, although not with the vigor I had decades ago. But I'm no couch-potato just rambling on about things that don't really concern me. Instead, I typically ramble on about things that do concern me. And wootboi does concern me.
But I'm not going to ramble on further in this post.
Cheers!
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Spanky
Social climber
boulder co
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2017 - 11:15am PT
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No worries Madbolter, my mistake I thought you were referring to me rather than some dude up the page.
And I guess it goes without saying but Woot boy drives me nuts too.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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May 30, 2017 - 11:23am PT
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Thanks, Spanky. We're on the same page!
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Auden
Gym climber
Maryland
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May 30, 2017 - 12:57pm PT
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I'm not an outside climber, only the gym for many years now, but I've read just about anything I can get my hands on about big walls, and I find what Erik is doing to just be really shitty. The thing that annoys me the most are his "improvements" to the GSR, as in drilling blot ladders around the A4 beak seams. I'm planning a trip to Yosemite for this summer, hopefully to do a bit of soloing, and if I see him anywhere, I'm staying a ways away.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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May 30, 2017 - 04:38pm PT
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How many of you Sloanaholics have ridden out a storm on El Cap, and then made it to the top under your own power? Or rode one out, and then bailed at the first break in the weather, for that matter?
If Sloan was only retrobolting n00b routes, like Aunt Fanny's Pantry and the Book of Revelations, some here might just roll their eyes and give him a pass. But, he has repeatedly, for a decade or more, defaced and degraded difficult, serious and classic climbs, both big and small.
How long before he derates the Sheep Ranch to C1? Or bypasses the Texas Flake Chimney with a ladder of belay bolts up the outer face? Or creates a "clean aid variation" (ladder) right next to the Stovelegs?
Nobody should have to clean up another climber's mess, and that includes taking a cold chisel to Sloan's power-drilling addiction.
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WBraun
climber
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May 30, 2017 - 04:45pm PT
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I rode out two big storms on walls
One on Son of Heart with Shipley, where we had to down nail one overhanging pitch to keep from potentially dying in a Niagara Falls during a brutal storm.
Topped out next day.
The other one was on Tissack where me Kauk were battling for our lives climbing in a Niagra Falls to top out.
I actually got hyperthermic on that one. All my teeth became temporarily loose from chattering, lol.
Ron is a lot tougher and seemed bomber to me and seemed to be unfazed.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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May 30, 2017 - 05:26pm PT
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^^^ Yup! You go up with your A-game, or stay in the gym where you belong. The A-game means having the experience and resources to improvise and make it happen. That does NOT mean having a bolt every place it might be convenient, electric heaters (or AC) upon demand, or a frigging escalator.
There's a sliding scale, and wootboi is determined to slide it toward "dumbed down for the masses."
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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May 30, 2017 - 05:34pm PT
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Wow! You guys should hear what everyone is saying here - on the bridge, in the Meadows and on the wall - about rap bolts on the Nose:
Listen....
Hear it??
{Crickets}
Anyway, back to zzzzzzzzzzzzzz
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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May 30, 2017 - 05:54pm PT
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I think we're talking about something more involved than just rap-bolts on the Nose. There's a long pattern here, of which these bolts are just small examples.
You and Anita seem to be saying that there's no issue here, and that surprises me. You wouldn't go up and drill classic routes down to your level of competency or convenience. You appear to respect not only the FA but the subsequent parties that would appreciate having the experience that the FA would suggest they will have.
When routes are dumbed down by chicken/convenience bolts, thereby changing the character of the route significantly, the trend is then toward the endless reduction to lowest-common-denominator.
I saw it happen on the Sea over the span of a decade, and I have to believe that you're not okay with that sort of thing. So, I don't understand your seeming rebuke to those of us that are unhappy with an individual who has flatly stated (on public threads and in face-to-face conversations) that he is committed to this dumbing-down/convenience drilling.
It's "fun" to "stand back, objectively" and laugh at those who care. But you care too. Or maybe you don't, so it's "anything goes." Is that it? I just don't understand the attitude you're expressing.
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Dickly
Social climber
KY
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May 30, 2017 - 05:58pm PT
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Wow! You guys should hear what everyone is saying here - on the bridge, in the Meadows and on the wall - about rap bolts on the Nose:
Listen....
Hear it??
{Crickets}
Anyway, back to zzzzzzzzzzzzzz
woot woot!
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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May 30, 2017 - 06:15pm PT
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Vertical campers these days....sheeesh. If you are going to climb gear, at least make it interesting.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 30, 2017 - 06:41pm PT
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Not to condone retro-bolting, or the dumbing down of climbs (I've railed against it here on ST), but maybe some of you should lift your gaze from Yosemite Valley and look around at places that are now what Yosemite was fifty years ago.
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