Discussion Topic |
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Spanky
Social climber
boulder co
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Topic Author's Original Post - May 24, 2017 - 12:01pm PT
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I was just on the Nose route page on mountain project and apparently Erik is planning to add anchors so that you can rap off the nose from dolt with one rope. WTF is with this guy?
"As of Fall 2016, you can rap from Sickle Ledge with one 60m rope. The goal is to get the rap route from Dolt Tower set up for one 60m rope rapping in early spring 2017. It gets very windy on the Nose, and folks spend so much time on the lower part of the route dealing with second ropes that are blowing around, that these new rap stations should be super useful. There have also been numerous rescues due to stuck ropes. These new rap stations will alleviate some of the congestion from people slowing down to deal with a second rope, whether they are teams that are fixing to Sickle(have the second jug with the extra ropes in a pack!) or those that are doing a Dolt Run to practice, and will allow people to climb safer and more efficiently through the lower part of the route. "
Posted by Erik Sloan
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 24, 2017 - 12:09pm PT
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It is understandable that he would have a fascination with 'dolt'.
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Killer K
Boulder climber
Sacramento, CA
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May 24, 2017 - 12:12pm PT
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Woot the fook?
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 24, 2017 - 01:34pm PT
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yes, it is old news.
Stewardship of Majestic Stone2.
Nothing really to be upset in comparison what he did before. If this can be count as destroying bailing experience? Example with short TR:
" We bailed from the Nose because I was suck and my partner is as#@&%e. And to addition to that Sloan ruin our bailing experience from Dolt. We could not use efficiently our second rope"
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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May 24, 2017 - 01:38pm PT
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He won't be happy until the big stone is ready for birthday parties. If limbing, mid-pitch convenience anchors, bolting laddering around whole pitches on classic routes, and power drillng won't get the guy ostracized, this will hardly stir an outrage.
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micronut
Trad climber
Fresno/Clovis, ca
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May 24, 2017 - 02:16pm PT
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"We bailed from the Nose because I was suck and my partner is as#@&%e."
Best quote of Supertopo2017
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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May 24, 2017 - 02:33pm PT
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My partner's perceived assholishness increases proportionally to my own acknowledgment of my suckage.
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WBraun
climber
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May 24, 2017 - 02:41pm PT
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The Nose has become Yosemite's climbing version of LA's 405 Freeway clusterfk .......
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canyoncat
Social climber
SoCal
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May 24, 2017 - 03:05pm PT
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Could we maybe get some AC up there? It gets hot.
If not AC, how about we string some drip irrigation lines for misters like they have in Vegas. Get on it Woot-D-Bag.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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May 24, 2017 - 04:03pm PT
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Flush toilets at Sickle, Dolt, El Cap Towers, Camps 4,5, & 6.
Jack hammer out better ledges at camp 4.
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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May 24, 2017 - 04:27pm PT
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 24, 2017 - 04:58pm PT
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The Nose has become Yosemite's climbing version of LA's 405 Freeway clusterfk ....... It's been that way for years, which you know probably better than anyone. I've done several routes on the Captain, but have had my fixed lines on the Nose poached at least a couple of times, and that was 20 yrs. ago before gym climbers thought they could just walk up to it and fire it in a day.
For those who don't think it's a big deal, go to Europe see how they've sanitized their outdoor places. Crowds, people climbing over one another on routes to reach a summit with a hut, beer garden and crowds of people. Not that I would mind having a beer on El Cap Tower, but it's beer I'd like to haul up myself after climbing up there.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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May 24, 2017 - 05:58pm PT
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Hey the guy obliviously has to bail alot give'm a break...HA😡
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
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May 24, 2017 - 11:02pm PT
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NPS supports this type of activity. They can spend less of their precious govt money on rescues, and to hell with the resources (El Capitan etc) -just keep the f*uckin till full is all they care about.
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GDavis
Social climber
SOL CAL
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May 24, 2017 - 11:42pm PT
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lolololol
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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May 25, 2017 - 02:44am PT
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STRANGE YOU'D mind ? Khunlun_Shan( did I get your name right? )
Don't post it if you don't want it re-posteditz, ahle' Güt !
There are bolts all over the big stone and every side of the road rock too.
More fool trolling don't feed this crap, as Doninisaurs has . . .
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2980043/Bolt-the-world
If your reading comprehension suks that's on you
And _shan of kunlun? If you'd looked,
at my picture archive you would have seen who I was
Grease Monkey Mr Diabase please.
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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May 25, 2017 - 08:24am PT
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Yosemite is America's Chamonix, and the Nose is our Aiguille du Midi.
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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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May 25, 2017 - 08:44am PT
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While people do get ropes stuck rapping from Dolt to the ground (I had to down jumar our line to unsnag a stuck line in the stovelegs for a retreating party) I get the sense this is to accommodate someone's need to make climbing to Dolt the next freeblast without the need to trail a second line. Which will make the bottom 1/3 of the Nose even more crowded.
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WBraun
climber
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May 25, 2017 - 08:49am PT
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That is exactly what's going on ^^^^^
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you.
Trad climber
fresh, isle
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May 25, 2017 - 08:56am PT
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the mystery, It has feelings too.
why do we treat it so harsh?
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 25, 2017 - 09:01am PT
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Want a good Yosemite big wall experience? Do Mt. Watkins. El Cap is like the Matterhorn at Disneyland.
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Spanky
Social climber
boulder co
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2017 - 09:14am PT
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The nose can be a mess but you can still have an amazing big wall experience on el cap. I've even done the triple direct and only had to wait at 1 belay for another party. If you get even slightly off the beaten path El Cap is still amazing. When we did Mescalito we were the only group on the route and we had the shield to ourselves last June. It just annoys me that people think the nose is a cragging route or a place to climb part way and then rappel. I get that NIAD people might want a training run but the bail rate on the nose is still around 50% and the first chunk of the route up to dolt should be challenging so it weeds out parties that aren't ready. Yes the nose has the easiest bail line on the wall but rapping from up high is still involved. I guess my biggest complaint is that Sloan has decided he speaks for the community no matter how many people call him out on his actions. Is he so delusional that he can't hear that no one wants his ideas implemented on the most famous cliff in the world?
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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May 25, 2017 - 09:20am PT
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Is he so delusional that he can't hear that no one wants his ideas implemented on the most famous cliff in the world?
He gets a minimal amount of encouragement from some quarters, so that is magnified in his mind to the exclusion of the din of voices telling him to stop. Many have tried to reason with him.
His response?
"Woot! Woot!"
Wootboi is impervious.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 25, 2017 - 09:33am PT
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the Nose is our Aiguille du Midi.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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May 25, 2017 - 09:39am PT
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^^^ LOL... git sum.
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brotherbbock
climber
Alta Loma, CA
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May 25, 2017 - 09:42am PT
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YER
GONNA
WOOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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cavemonkey
Ice climber
ak
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May 25, 2017 - 10:46am PT
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I rapped from pitch 28 of the nose a decade ago in an ice storm. Easy peasy. I did have 2 ropes though. WTF are you doing up on the captain with one rope????
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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May 25, 2017 - 11:21am PT
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...my biggest complaint is that Sloan has decided he speaks for the community no matter how many people call him out on his actions.
A hearty second for that. Although I am far from familiarity with the contemporary Yosemite scene, I can't understand some of the logic. The idea that making it easier and easier to retreat will somehow reduce congestion is questionable. There is every reason to believe that the result will be more congestion rather than less because of the higher level of convenience and the lower level of skill and commitment required and the encouragement of partial ascents for training and because folks just don't want to do the whole thing.
Beyond he specifics of rappel highways on the Nose, the self-appointed savior syndrome extends far beyond Yosemite; we have it all over the country on big walls and small crags alike. One of the real problems is the asymmetry of these efforts---undoing the work of self-appointed "guardians of safety" and "improvers of experience" is difficult enough that only a small number of the very worst transgressions are ever rectified.
A second problem with convenience alterations (masquerading as safety enhancements of course) is that they desensitize the community to the further degradation of the climbing environment and create a demand for similar installations where none currently exist.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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May 25, 2017 - 12:07pm PT
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When I first came to Yosemite, El Capitan did not capture my eye as a plumb objective. For me, it was all about the vertical face of Half Dome (which I still haven't gotten around to doing).
It seems there is a cult of rapture about The Nose, in no small part exacerbated by titles like "The Road to the Nose." There is a groupthink to define one's self as a climber who has made it by having scaled that particular route. The average need of climbers to measure themselves/ourselves against a common yardstick is as much a problem as anything else in this situation. Responding to the crowds with pragmatic solutions to ease congestion doesn't seem so bad to me in this case.
In my mind, this situation makes it easier to find solitude in the rest of the park.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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May 25, 2017 - 12:31pm PT
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Is he so delusional that he can't hear that no one wants his ideas implemented on the most famous cliff in the world?
He gets a minimal amount of encouragement from some quarters, so that is magnified in his mind to the exclusion of the din of voices telling him to stop.
Selective Perception is closely related to Delusions of Grandeur
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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May 25, 2017 - 05:08pm PT
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Fixed ropes are annoying. Added bolts are destructive.
BTW, who added the new bolt to the catwalk at the base of WFLT? My reflexive guess is Sloan, but that is not fair.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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May 25, 2017 - 10:07pm PT
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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May 26, 2017 - 05:33am PT
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I suppose there are plenty folks that could chop it.
That should be the response.
I wouldn't have had a mini epic when I bailed from below DT if there were shorter raps.
Butt then I wouldn't have learned much, nor had such cool memories of the struggle we had either.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/550903/Downward-Bound-Stories-of-Failure
The cure for Sloanification is The Chop and to keep chopping.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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May 26, 2017 - 06:59am PT
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The continuous talk of a "Climber's Camp"?
I've seen what surf camps do- cushy infrastructure and accessibility, perceived ownership, exclusively.
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Barbarian
climber
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May 26, 2017 - 07:18am PT
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"We bailed because I was suck and my partner is as#@&%e."
I use this excuse when soloing...
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 26, 2017 - 02:15pm PT
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Lol Barbarian, better version of my story
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majo
climber
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May 29, 2017 - 11:53am PT
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Changing times call for changing strategies. Not everyone is stuck in the 60's, 70's, and 80's.
Im sure you old timers were bad A back in your day. Let the new kids decide whats best for their generation.
Gym climbers unite!
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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May 29, 2017 - 01:58pm PT
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^^^ With two whole posts to the handle, one of which is the above, it's a pretty pathetic troll attempt.
Try harder.
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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May 29, 2017 - 02:17pm PT
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zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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May 29, 2017 - 02:27pm PT
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Let the new kids decide whats best for their generation.
Sounds great.
Except that when you New Kids decide that degrading existing rock climbs is best for yourselves, it robs subsequent generations of the option to do the climbs as they were before. Or, does your approach to the great outdoors include returning the rock to its previous state, once you decide that climbing is boring, and you move onto some other activity?
You do realize, don't you, that your generation will not be the last to climb the rock? And, that the Even Newer Kids will probably not agree that retrobolting existing climbs, to make them easier, is a good idea.
There is only one Nose Route, and when it gets retrobolted, chipped and epoxied, it will be GONE. It will no longer be the classic rock climb that it used to be.
Permanently altering existing rock climbs screws things up forever.
I guess you New Kids are a bunch of nihilists, judging by how you venerate and worship Eric Sloan, as he goes about his demonic business of ruining Yosemite's classic (and not so classic) rock climbs.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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May 29, 2017 - 03:20pm PT
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All good points, Tom. But you're feeding the troll.
Climbers get it, and non-climbers can't be swayed by argument, as we've seen.
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mtnyoung
Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
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May 29, 2017 - 07:06pm PT
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Gym climbers untie!
Majo is a troll.
Assuming it is an actual gym climber, I fixed its quote for it.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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May 29, 2017 - 11:16pm PT
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Gym climbers untie! Wall played!
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Spanky
Social climber
boulder co
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2017 - 08:40am PT
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Hey Madbolter,
I'm not a troll. I've posted over 200 times (not that many, I have a life) and I climbed el cap last year. When the last time you did a wall?
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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May 30, 2017 - 08:47am PT
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Just an FYI but I think Madbolter was talking about Majo and not you Spanky.
Don't forget, "Any Press is Good Press"
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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May 30, 2017 - 10:55am PT
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Spanky, I'm not sure how you thought I was calling you a troll. There are others here that are, but, as you see above, I responded to your post treating you as a real contributor to the discussion.
I've climbed El Cap a few times, and I'm in the middle of an FA at the Fisher Towers right now. So, I still get after it, although not with the vigor I had decades ago. But I'm no couch-potato just rambling on about things that don't really concern me. Instead, I typically ramble on about things that do concern me. And wootboi does concern me.
But I'm not going to ramble on further in this post.
Cheers!
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Spanky
Social climber
boulder co
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2017 - 11:15am PT
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No worries Madbolter, my mistake I thought you were referring to me rather than some dude up the page.
And I guess it goes without saying but Woot boy drives me nuts too.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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May 30, 2017 - 11:23am PT
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Thanks, Spanky. We're on the same page!
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Auden
Gym climber
Maryland
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May 30, 2017 - 12:57pm PT
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I'm not an outside climber, only the gym for many years now, but I've read just about anything I can get my hands on about big walls, and I find what Erik is doing to just be really shitty. The thing that annoys me the most are his "improvements" to the GSR, as in drilling blot ladders around the A4 beak seams. I'm planning a trip to Yosemite for this summer, hopefully to do a bit of soloing, and if I see him anywhere, I'm staying a ways away.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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May 30, 2017 - 04:38pm PT
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How many of you Sloanaholics have ridden out a storm on El Cap, and then made it to the top under your own power? Or rode one out, and then bailed at the first break in the weather, for that matter?
If Sloan was only retrobolting n00b routes, like Aunt Fanny's Pantry and the Book of Revelations, some here might just roll their eyes and give him a pass. But, he has repeatedly, for a decade or more, defaced and degraded difficult, serious and classic climbs, both big and small.
How long before he derates the Sheep Ranch to C1? Or bypasses the Texas Flake Chimney with a ladder of belay bolts up the outer face? Or creates a "clean aid variation" (ladder) right next to the Stovelegs?
Nobody should have to clean up another climber's mess, and that includes taking a cold chisel to Sloan's power-drilling addiction.
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WBraun
climber
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May 30, 2017 - 04:45pm PT
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I rode out two big storms on walls
One on Son of Heart with Shipley, where we had to down nail one overhanging pitch to keep from potentially dying in a Niagara Falls during a brutal storm.
Topped out next day.
The other one was on Tissack where me Kauk were battling for our lives climbing in a Niagra Falls to top out.
I actually got hyperthermic on that one. All my teeth became temporarily loose from chattering, lol.
Ron is a lot tougher and seemed bomber to me and seemed to be unfazed.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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May 30, 2017 - 05:26pm PT
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^^^ Yup! You go up with your A-game, or stay in the gym where you belong. The A-game means having the experience and resources to improvise and make it happen. That does NOT mean having a bolt every place it might be convenient, electric heaters (or AC) upon demand, or a frigging escalator.
There's a sliding scale, and wootboi is determined to slide it toward "dumbed down for the masses."
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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May 30, 2017 - 05:34pm PT
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Wow! You guys should hear what everyone is saying here - on the bridge, in the Meadows and on the wall - about rap bolts on the Nose:
Listen....
Hear it??
{Crickets}
Anyway, back to zzzzzzzzzzzzzz
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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May 30, 2017 - 05:54pm PT
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I think we're talking about something more involved than just rap-bolts on the Nose. There's a long pattern here, of which these bolts are just small examples.
You and Anita seem to be saying that there's no issue here, and that surprises me. You wouldn't go up and drill classic routes down to your level of competency or convenience. You appear to respect not only the FA but the subsequent parties that would appreciate having the experience that the FA would suggest they will have.
When routes are dumbed down by chicken/convenience bolts, thereby changing the character of the route significantly, the trend is then toward the endless reduction to lowest-common-denominator.
I saw it happen on the Sea over the span of a decade, and I have to believe that you're not okay with that sort of thing. So, I don't understand your seeming rebuke to those of us that are unhappy with an individual who has flatly stated (on public threads and in face-to-face conversations) that he is committed to this dumbing-down/convenience drilling.
It's "fun" to "stand back, objectively" and laugh at those who care. But you care too. Or maybe you don't, so it's "anything goes." Is that it? I just don't understand the attitude you're expressing.
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Dickly
Social climber
KY
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May 30, 2017 - 05:58pm PT
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Wow! You guys should hear what everyone is saying here - on the bridge, in the Meadows and on the wall - about rap bolts on the Nose:
Listen....
Hear it??
{Crickets}
Anyway, back to zzzzzzzzzzzzzz
woot woot!
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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May 30, 2017 - 06:15pm PT
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Vertical campers these days....sheeesh. If you are going to climb gear, at least make it interesting.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 30, 2017 - 06:41pm PT
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Not to condone retro-bolting, or the dumbing down of climbs (I've railed against it here on ST), but maybe some of you should lift your gaze from Yosemite Valley and look around at places that are now what Yosemite was fifty years ago.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 30, 2017 - 07:15pm PT
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Kingtut....I don't think they were doing it for self-aggrandizement with little regard for the future. They were living in the present and pioneering a completely (on the world stage) new type of climbing.
It's hard to imagine that they could have forseen what their efforts would open up. Could they have predicted the Internet, Google and Facebook?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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May 30, 2017 - 08:46pm PT
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"Self-aggrandizement" ?? Are you fukking kidding me?!
I placed some heads the other day - good ol Donny! - because that's what it took to climb the pitch.
What say ye kingtut?
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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May 30, 2017 - 09:13pm PT
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No, they did what they did for their own self-aggrandizement, with little concern for the future.
This is the human condition on so many levels . . . JT is correct in his observation . . . his definition of self-aggrandizement is not as sinister as others are interpreting. The ego is the self-aggrandizer . . . we all have an ego of varying magnitudes . . . we all self-aggrandize.
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nathanael
climber
CA
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May 30, 2017 - 10:49pm PT
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weird I climbed the nose this weekend and didn't notice any extra bolts
oh yea cause i didn't f*#king bail
also couldn't locate the hoards of niad'ers who were apparently climbing to dolt and bailing as a result of the anchors, maybe they're just too fast to spot now that there are more bolts
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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May 30, 2017 - 11:53pm PT
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He will make climbing, GREAT, again!
Yeah.
Right.
It's gonna be yuge! We're going to be winning so much that we'll get tired of winning.
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WBraun
climber
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May 31, 2017 - 07:58am PT
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Tom Rohrer was the first guy to put in Nose rap route.
Back then they were against it.
It saved quite a few people's asses.
I carried water for Tom from Tamarack to the top of El Cap.
He was going to do the rap bolt route whether I carried water for him or not.
I needed a haul sack to climb El Cap.
He told me if I carry some gallons of water for him he'll give me a haul sack of which he did.
Thus I'm an accomplice in this criminal event, lol .... :-)
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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May 31, 2017 - 08:35am PT
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Too many monkeys, not enough trees...
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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May 31, 2017 - 11:29am PT
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I just think people need to realize they can't keep using hammers on El Cap forever until all the routes look like the worst of Yosemite blown out routes.
There's some truth to that, for sure. But I don't think that this is the issue at play here.
There's no "until" regarding existing routes that wootboi is dumbing down.
In the middle of Hook or Book on the Sea is a small seam that had a single (totally natural) #2 head in it. Now, that's right where you'd love some real "pro," but that one small head was the only natural placement to be had. The FA team left it fixed SO THAT it wouldn't get blown out by repeated removal/placement cycles, and it looked stainless steel to me. GOOD head, for what it was, and totally natural. That should have been the only placement there for decades and decades to come (with judicious removal/replacement of a stainless #2 every few decades, that placement would have lasted effectively "forever").
But nooooo. When we were up there a decade later, here's that same spot festooned with MULTIPLE trenched heads, tie-offs "equalizing" them, and the whole thing looked like a rat's nest of crap. Some of those trenched heads were #4! ALL of this crap amounted to basically "chicken bolting," and there's no doubt that at some point somebody is going to add a full-on bolt there. And crap like that literally ruins the character of what was a brilliant pitch! I feel HONORED that I got to do it in its original state!
Now, it could be argued that Bridwell, Bard, and Diegelman put up a "manufactured route" anyway, which they certainly did. But the key is in the essence of the "manufacturing." Climbing is ALL "artificial difficulty," and the real issue is that different FAs have different characters. These widely varied characters of routes provide the climbing community a "shared resource" of various "ways to play the game," with different routes specifying "different rules," so to speak. And, given that the rock itself is a shared resource, there are limits to how many "ways to play the game" can be fit onto a given section of rock.
Throughout climbing history, first-ascentionists have taken their responsibility seriously, and the vast majority have "played the game" well by all accounts. So, it's not like "the game" the vast majority have played has been "invalid" and in need of "correction." There is NO need for the Sea to be dumbed down to some "accessible" level. And the "effort" to do so literally deprives the climbing community of one "way to play the game" that is extremely valuable and in short supply.
There's a simple principle that has been almost universally followed throughout climbing history: Leave the FA in as close to its original character as possible. And if that principle were followed, there would not be a festoon of trenched heads in the middle of Hook or Book! There is no "until" in this context! Just LEAVE IT AS THE FA TEAM LEFT IT!
What wootboi does is GUT this simple principle, taking it upon himself alone to decide where "the level" should be. Yes, FA teams themselves decide this, but, as I said, the vast majority of FA teams have established "levels" that are worthy of emulation, seeking to rise to "the level" that the rock itself sets. And when "a level" HAS been established, it is unconscionable to then dumb it down for "accessibility" or "convenience." But dumb it down is what wootboi lives for.
My $0.02.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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May 31, 2017 - 11:48am PT
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$200.02
Fixed it.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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May 31, 2017 - 12:06pm PT
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Go chop the bolts and kick Sloan's ass on your way out.
...or just sit here and fill Superloser with your dumb-a$$ opinions on the matter.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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May 31, 2017 - 12:23pm PT
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In other words King, what's ok for you to do, is not ok for common folk or the younger generation.
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WBraun
climber
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May 31, 2017 - 12:24pm PT
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the "Dolt Run"
Was already being done a lot with 2 rope rappels.
There's no difference except you can now do it with one rope rappel or whatever.
Whoopty doo.
Ya still gotta climb it with one or 2 ropes.
Look at heart fixed lines and free blast.
It's Yosemite Valley, between two major metropolitan centers and international airports, as the largest outdoors insane asylum except the walls are NOT padded ..... :-)
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drF
Trad climber
usa
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May 31, 2017 - 12:29pm PT
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as the largest outdoors insane asylum ..... :-)
Bwaahaha....but so true!
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anita514
Gym climber
Great White North
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May 31, 2017 - 12:41pm PT
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Please tell us more, KingTut
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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May 31, 2017 - 01:21pm PT
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It's hard to say who looks more thrilled, Anita or Mike behind her.
"Go chop the bolts and kick Sloan's ass on your way out.
...or just sit here and fill Superloser with your dumb-a$$ opinions on the matter."
Bwah ha ha ha ha! Superloser indeed.
The sounds of all the Hammers, tuning forks and epoxy tubes removing and repairing Erik repel bolts has been completely drowned out by the sound of crickets.
It's still sprinkling up here, I had to make another pot of coffee for me and Sean.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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May 31, 2017 - 01:23pm PT
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Heretics and Saviors. But can they color coordinate?
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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May 31, 2017 - 01:45pm PT
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Im sure you old timers were bad A back in your day. Let the new kids decide whats best for their generation.
Gym climbers unite!
The time for Mr. Sloan to become Mr. Pierce is now.
And a tattoo of a peregrine in flight on the Boot...woo-woo-woot!
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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May 31, 2017 - 01:47pm PT
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BTW, the green thing to do would be bolting all cracks. This would save having to produce any cams, stoppers, pins... Become earth conscious climbers.
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drF
Trad climber
usa
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May 31, 2017 - 01:55pm PT
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You know, like make an intelligent argument?
Because, you haven't so far....
Down climb off your tiny pedestal. You've already done SO much
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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May 31, 2017 - 03:59pm PT
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When I read the OP I was thinking what's the big deal, it's a rap route. He isn't changing the challenge of a climb. But I think some people posted some good arguments against adding stations. Basically turning it into free blast 2. It's interesting to hear others opinions on it, but as always those that take action on the stone will have the last word.
And Royal did see the future and the need to protect the resource. Royal and Yvon were the main driving force for clean climbing in America. They got it and communicated it out long before most people had a clue. We all owe them a debt of gratitude. And we need to be vigilant and keep educating future climbers about why it's important. Although some obviously will never get it. Just think how many idiots think it's better to piss in a crack instead of on a face where it dries out / get's washed off.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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May 31, 2017 - 05:08pm PT
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Or pee in a bottle, and don't dump it until you have a drop into free space.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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May 31, 2017 - 05:50pm PT
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I'm just hoping Sloan doesn't try to realize Jardine's dream by going out and installing a 5.9 up the Nose by bolting on plastic holds every couple of feet.
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WBraun
climber
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May 31, 2017 - 06:36pm PT
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So k-man, how do you come up with these astronomically stooipd ideas in your head and try to project them onto others?
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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May 31, 2017 - 07:25pm PT
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Kman was tounge in cheekiness. He has rather stringent ethics.
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Spanky
Social climber
boulder co
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2017 - 10:22am PT
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For me it's about the bolts but its also the fact that its a dumb idea. Pulling and throwing takes time, enough that doing 100 ft rappels won't be significantly faster. I've generally felt that doing longs rappels is more efficient. and you'll still have people rapping with 2 lines which will create its own special cluster because they will want to pass slower parties with one rope.
If you think you're going to be the steward of El cap at least be smart enough to realize the idea doesn't make sense
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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^^^ Well, that settles it in my mind. Wootboi has been on the right track all along. Sigh.
So, let's just embrace the horror: There's going to have to be a plumbing system installed that allows for potty-stations at (minimally) every anchor of every route. That whole system can shunt down to the main sewer system on the Valley floor.
It's the only sure-fire way to eliminate the sewage all over the rock (and all over us). And, since the Valley really is just an almost-urban playground, let's abandon the notion of "wilderness" once and for all.
To all you whiners: Go elsewhere if you want a wilderness climbing experience.
Carry on, wootboi, carry on! You have my full support now.
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Gary
Social climber
Desolation Basin, Calif.
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To all you whiners: Go elsewhere if you want a wilderness climbing experience.
Lots to be said in favor of that statement.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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NPS Employment opportunity, looking for an individual with both culinary and sewage treatment experience who operates drones as a hobby.
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clinker
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, California
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When your done with that plunger we need more carrots sliced.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Why lug food all the way up there (and your turds all the way down) when your personal El Cap Meadow Chef can cater your meal, have it flown up to you piping hot and do a great cooking show at the same time?
I stand corrected, and gratefully so. Thank you, DMT.
Embracing the wave of the future means going the distance! No halfway measures. We're gonna be winning so much that we'll be tired of winning.
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Ryan Tetz
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Wait till they all start climbing and soloing with autopilot drones......
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Well, there's really no reason to put your body on the line with ACTUAL climbing when you can just play a video game to virtualize the "experience."
"Whoa, dude, I cranked that 5.13 route on 'insane' difficulty on that level-10 British map. I don't remember what crag it was modeled after, but, dude, I got a cramp in my left thumb I was quick-timing it so fast! Bad-azzzzzz! You gotta see if you can get up it."
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Mr. Duck, twas not my idea, it was Ray Jardine's.
Or at least that's what I read in an interview some time ago.
Now the guy drills holes in toothbrushes, so what can you say about such a mass?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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You talking bolts or toppings baw?!?
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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So who's going to chop them????
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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I like to go to places where bolt chopping controversies don't exist. Where they do it's already too crowded.
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Barbarian
climber
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NPS-contract for drone-powered catered meal and potty services for El Cap teams.
I'm waiting for the drone that takes your rope up and fixes it to industrial grade anchors. No need to lead if you can jug!
Or better still - fix the rope and then haul me up. El Cap as an E ticket Disney ride!
Eliminate all the risk; Devalue any accomplishment.
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brotherbbock
climber
Alta Loma, CA
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I keep checking this thread in the hope that Wooty Wooterson himself will chime in.
I miss him dearly....
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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w00tBoi will not be showing up me thinks
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brotherbbock
climber
Alta Loma, CA
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w00tBoi will not be showing up me thinks
damn it man!!!
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majo
climber
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Whos that old hippy that sings, "times they are a changing"?
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| Messages 1 - 102 of total 102 in this topic |
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