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Gunkie
Trad climber
Valles Marineris
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May 25, 2017 - 08:44am PT
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While people do get ropes stuck rapping from Dolt to the ground (I had to down jumar our line to unsnag a stuck line in the stovelegs for a retreating party) I get the sense this is to accommodate someone's need to make climbing to Dolt the next freeblast without the need to trail a second line. Which will make the bottom 1/3 of the Nose even more crowded.
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WBraun
climber
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May 25, 2017 - 08:49am PT
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That is exactly what's going on ^^^^^
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you.
Trad climber
fresh, isle
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May 25, 2017 - 08:56am PT
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the mystery, It has feelings too.
why do we treat it so harsh?
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aspendougy
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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May 25, 2017 - 09:01am PT
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Want a good Yosemite big wall experience? Do Mt. Watkins. El Cap is like the Matterhorn at Disneyland.
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Spanky
Social climber
boulder co
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Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2017 - 09:14am PT
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The nose can be a mess but you can still have an amazing big wall experience on el cap. I've even done the triple direct and only had to wait at 1 belay for another party. If you get even slightly off the beaten path El Cap is still amazing. When we did Mescalito we were the only group on the route and we had the shield to ourselves last June. It just annoys me that people think the nose is a cragging route or a place to climb part way and then rappel. I get that NIAD people might want a training run but the bail rate on the nose is still around 50% and the first chunk of the route up to dolt should be challenging so it weeds out parties that aren't ready. Yes the nose has the easiest bail line on the wall but rapping from up high is still involved. I guess my biggest complaint is that Sloan has decided he speaks for the community no matter how many people call him out on his actions. Is he so delusional that he can't hear that no one wants his ideas implemented on the most famous cliff in the world?
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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May 25, 2017 - 09:20am PT
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Is he so delusional that he can't hear that no one wants his ideas implemented on the most famous cliff in the world?
He gets a minimal amount of encouragement from some quarters, so that is magnified in his mind to the exclusion of the din of voices telling him to stop. Many have tried to reason with him.
His response?
"Woot! Woot!"
Wootboi is impervious.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 25, 2017 - 09:33am PT
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the Nose is our Aiguille du Midi.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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May 25, 2017 - 09:39am PT
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^^^ LOL... git sum.
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brotherbbock
climber
Alta Loma, CA
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May 25, 2017 - 09:42am PT
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YER
GONNA
WOOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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cavemonkey
Ice climber
ak
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May 25, 2017 - 10:46am PT
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I rapped from pitch 28 of the nose a decade ago in an ice storm. Easy peasy. I did have 2 ropes though. WTF are you doing up on the captain with one rope????
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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May 25, 2017 - 11:21am PT
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...my biggest complaint is that Sloan has decided he speaks for the community no matter how many people call him out on his actions.
A hearty second for that. Although I am far from familiarity with the contemporary Yosemite scene, I can't understand some of the logic. The idea that making it easier and easier to retreat will somehow reduce congestion is questionable. There is every reason to believe that the result will be more congestion rather than less because of the higher level of convenience and the lower level of skill and commitment required and the encouragement of partial ascents for training and because folks just don't want to do the whole thing.
Beyond he specifics of rappel highways on the Nose, the self-appointed savior syndrome extends far beyond Yosemite; we have it all over the country on big walls and small crags alike. One of the real problems is the asymmetry of these efforts---undoing the work of self-appointed "guardians of safety" and "improvers of experience" is difficult enough that only a small number of the very worst transgressions are ever rectified.
A second problem with convenience alterations (masquerading as safety enhancements of course) is that they desensitize the community to the further degradation of the climbing environment and create a demand for similar installations where none currently exist.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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May 25, 2017 - 12:07pm PT
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When I first came to Yosemite, El Capitan did not capture my eye as a plumb objective. For me, it was all about the vertical face of Half Dome (which I still haven't gotten around to doing).
It seems there is a cult of rapture about The Nose, in no small part exacerbated by titles like "The Road to the Nose." There is a groupthink to define one's self as a climber who has made it by having scaled that particular route. The average need of climbers to measure themselves/ourselves against a common yardstick is as much a problem as anything else in this situation. Responding to the crowds with pragmatic solutions to ease congestion doesn't seem so bad to me in this case.
In my mind, this situation makes it easier to find solitude in the rest of the park.
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Tom
Big Wall climber
San Luis Obispo CA
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May 25, 2017 - 12:31pm PT
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Is he so delusional that he can't hear that no one wants his ideas implemented on the most famous cliff in the world?
He gets a minimal amount of encouragement from some quarters, so that is magnified in his mind to the exclusion of the din of voices telling him to stop.
Selective Perception is closely related to Delusions of Grandeur
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Moof
Big Wall climber
Orygun
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May 25, 2017 - 05:08pm PT
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Fixed ropes are annoying. Added bolts are destructive.
BTW, who added the new bolt to the catwalk at the base of WFLT? My reflexive guess is Sloan, but that is not fair.
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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May 25, 2017 - 10:07pm PT
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Delhi Dog
climber
Good Question...
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May 26, 2017 - 05:33am PT
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I suppose there are plenty folks that could chop it.
That should be the response.
I wouldn't have had a mini epic when I bailed from below DT if there were shorter raps.
Butt then I wouldn't have learned much, nor had such cool memories of the struggle we had either.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/550903/Downward-Bound-Stories-of-Failure
The cure for Sloanification is The Chop and to keep chopping.
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Contractor
Boulder climber
CA
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May 26, 2017 - 06:59am PT
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The continuous talk of a "Climber's Camp"?
I've seen what surf camps do- cushy infrastructure and accessibility, perceived ownership, exclusively.
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Barbarian
climber
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May 26, 2017 - 07:18am PT
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"We bailed because I was suck and my partner is as#@&%e."
I use this excuse when soloing...
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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May 26, 2017 - 02:15pm PT
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Lol Barbarian, better version of my story
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majo
climber
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May 29, 2017 - 11:53am PT
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Changing times call for changing strategies. Not everyone is stuck in the 60's, 70's, and 80's.
Im sure you old timers were bad A back in your day. Let the new kids decide whats best for their generation.
Gym climbers unite!
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