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Captain...or Skully
climber
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May 13, 2012 - 04:00pm PT
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I'm just trying to let him know that folks aren't into his program. It jeopardizes all of us. There's gotta be a way to make it Stop.
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Erik Sloan
climber
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May 14, 2012 - 02:08am PT
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Yo Gang,
Almost done with the GOB topo. 13 pitches, 12 new--we started on the first 5.8 pitch of Camp 4 Terrorist.
No Klaus, we didn't need no power drill. This route has only 12 lead bolts in 13 pitches, and is really, really good climbing. Super grippy rock and stellar A1 cracks for miles.
I can't believe I didn't even hike up there until this year.
more soon,
erik
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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May 14, 2012 - 03:52am PT
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Drilling, within spitting-distance of a perfect crack?
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Pass the Chongo, Chongo
Social climber
IN CAVE IN YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK
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May 14, 2012 - 04:46am PT
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Drilling, within spitting-distance of a perfect crack?
SOOO GO CLIMB IT... POST A PICTURE OF YOU IN THE SAME SPOT W/ A NATURAL BELAY... TILL THEN YER AN ARM CHAIR AID CLIMBER....
NONOOK aint all bad!!!! He's made some small mistakes, but who hasnt... YOSEMITE AINT NO F*#KING WILDERNESS... AS LONG AS YOU DONT USE A POWER DRILL ANY MORE THAN YOU WOULD A HAND DRILL, WHATS THE F*#KING DIFFERENCE!!!! (not saying thats what he did) BUT THATS MY OPINION OF A POWER DRILL. OH AND ALL YOU F*#KING HIPPIES BITCHING ABOUT LIMBING ON TRAILS.... **I HOPE YOU TAKE A F*#KING STICK TO THE EYE** AGAIN THE EL CAP BASE AINT NO F*#KING WILDERNESS
HATERS LICK MY BALLS
CHONGo
DID THE first 2 pitches of COMEDY of TERRORs in 93 then went right another pitch of A4 AND BAILED...
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Erik Sloan
climber
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May 15, 2012 - 12:38pm PT
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Yo Biotch
This route is super natural. Three of the belays are trees, and two have only one bolt.
get sum,
erik
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 15, 2012 - 02:35pm PT
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Climbing on the Camp 4 Wall is like going to the Moab area and climbing at Potash Road- why do it?
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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May 15, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
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why do it?
Because it's there.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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May 15, 2012 - 03:02pm PT
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Nice go, regardless of the novelty.
More ramps than a parcade, Tower of Pain, the midges on the approach, oh the horror!
What has happened to the climb we used to do called the Sphincter? Did it get some PC re-name? It was a marginal 5.9. Looked exactly like its name.
It was near HQ, I think.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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May 15, 2012 - 03:07pm PT
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The Camp 4 Wall, in addition to some good crack climbs, also had Dynamo Hum which, until it was freed, was known as Camp 4 Tree from South Base, and was a popular A1 beginner's lead. I'd enlarged the pin scars a couple of times on that route.
Art Brook and I started up Nanook's line in late April of 1971, only to be snowed off. In retreating down the wall, we came across Henley Quits shortly after its first ascent. I say this because the pitch was supplied with full pre-placed piton protection, before that was standard practice. In that condition, we were able to get up the first pitch.
The left side of that formation is Christina. It starts out with a 5.10 OW or lieback (I think the lieback is rated easier now). The second pitch, which I haven't done, looks like some rather difficult, bolt-protected face climbing. The first pitch was quite nice, at least in 1973, however.
John
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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May 15, 2012 - 03:12pm PT
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How about because it is a refreshingly nice place to climb, a change of pace and of place, a chance to get away,
to distance themselves
far from the mad natterers
who would gladly steal their route
if they could.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jul 22, 2012 - 12:50pm PT
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nice job eric, that looks like a fun route. How loose is it up there?
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Erik Sloan
climber
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Jul 22, 2012 - 04:17pm PT
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Thanks.
Not loose at all. Once we got to the Camp 4 Terror ramp at the top of the third pitch I was sure we were gonna start finding anchor slings and whatnot, the route was so splitter and the rock quality so good.
The view from Camp 4 Wall is really good too, and with half day shade it's not that cooker.
The one drawback is the descent, which takes a minimum of 4-5 hours as you have to hike all the way up and over to the top of Yose Falls and then down the Falls trail.
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