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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 22, 2006 - 01:31am PT
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Anyone been up there recently?
Any recommendations?
thx,
M
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 22, 2006 - 01:33am PT
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No wonder they call you mungeclimber ......
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2006 - 01:56am PT
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hrm, post isn't working.
try this again...
:)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 22, 2006 - 02:23am PT
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ok munge, you asked for it...
Doggie Diversions
Doggie Deviations
Doggie Do
The Buttocks
Cheek
I've been on all of those (at least the first pitch), and I'm not taking responsibility for your journey if you decide to go up and to them... don't think they're in the data base though...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2006 - 02:28am PT
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hrm, filth degree issue or sketch factor aka anal pucker rating?
thx Ed. I've been checking out the Reid guide but not much going on there.
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 22, 2006 - 02:32am PT
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The absolutely best climb I've ever done back there is "Stay Free"
But you have to work hard to get there, and it's burly.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2006 - 02:42am PT
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kewl, i'll check it out, probably don't have the umph to do burly stuff, but in vain hope of other aspirations, I'm slowly getting some wide gear so those 10a wide routes peppered throughout the valley may some thrutch. I seem to recall stay free being approached from the YF trail in the book.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 22, 2006 - 02:42am PT
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Rob,
The Reid guide has topos, crack width/type notation, ratings, and even star ratings. If that is not enough, then I'm not sure what more could be desired. Videos with the move-by-move beta? Are you looking for written descriptions? Really? If so, there is the Roper guide.
If you want beta on several of the offwidths there, check out the collected beta from various sources on Alex's page:
http://www.monsteroffwidth.com/climbing-misc/yosemiteoffwidths/YosemiteOffwidths.html
I have heard that Chopper is pretty stout - probably best not to start on that one.
A simple approach would be to go up and warm up on one of the easier starred routes, like say Doggie Deviations. If that goes well, then look at some harder routes and try one that looks appealling.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2006 - 03:00am PT
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Looking for people to talk up climbing, especially in under appreciated areas on this politics forum. :)
Camp 4 wall is just one of those areas that I always wanted to hike up to, but never bothered. I know nothing so if something jumps out at someone speak up. Or are there new routes that haven't been reported?
Oddly enough there are quite a few routes that are not and never will be reported, but make for great info when emailed rather than posted. Sometimes a thread gets a fire going.
(nothing wrong with move by move beta if I suck at climbing. ;)
One key question I had is whether the place is buried in a water fall run off in winter? bad rock fall from the top?
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lucho
Gym climber
San Franpsycho
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Dec 22, 2006 - 03:02am PT
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I posted about our route when we first did it, didnt wanna spray. Anyways Dynamo Hum is really good too. Its on the approach
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2006 - 03:10am PT
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Lucho is good people!
thx!
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poop_tube
Big Wall climber
33° 45' N 117° 52' W
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Dec 22, 2006 - 04:03am PT
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werdd
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Ouch!
climber
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Dec 22, 2006 - 04:20am PT
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valygrl
climber
Santa Cruz
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Dec 22, 2006 - 10:10am PT
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The Doggie climbs are worth doing, the left one is a good lead, the right one has a somewhat thin flake. Last time I was up there, I placed a green camalot right next to a king snake in the crack. Cute! It's not a long walk.
Edit... I can't remember, is that where Chicken Pie is, too? Chicken Pie is excellent. Might be somewhere else, though.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 22, 2006 - 10:45am PT
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There are two Chicken Pies, the one at Knob Hill was renamed Turkey Pie the other one is at New Diversions and is a really great climb (in my opinion) thin hands in a corner is what I remember.
The very cool thing about Camp 4 wall is that almost nobody goes up there. The snake in the crack is an old friend, really wonderful actually, and an indication of the spase presence of humans up there...
...we, Gary, Steve and I, where up there on some holiday weekend day, we heard the crowd down at Columbia Boulder cheering and applauding some master boulderer doing Midnight Lightning... quite a crowd, as it was elsewhere in the Valley that day. We were alone all day with the stone to ourselves.
The only people I've ever run into up there were Melissa and Kate, when Gary and I were on the "Chimney training circuit."
By the way, The Buttocks is pretty gravelly down low, and dirty/licheny in the chimney where there is also no pro. And the gully up hill from the base of that climb has evidence of rockfall (at least a couple of years ago), so the upper slopes might be a bit loose.
It is a great "obscure" area, ironically, right next to the center of the action. Looks like there is a lot of stuff to do up there still.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Dec 22, 2006 - 10:46am PT
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Chopper Flake is stout as an offwidth but less so if you lyback it. Dynamo Hum is hard for the grade (.11d). There;s another one back up there, the Left Side of something, that starts with a 10 offwidth and goes to 12a face moves. That;s also good and stout.
JL
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 22, 2006 - 11:28am PT
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Don't forget about Secret Storm unless it has been swallowed up by trees at the bottom! The upper crux is way fun and the lower 5.10a wide crux is very reasonable.
Do you still have to stuff yourself into the hole on Chopper Flake in order to grope and clip the bolts on the outside? The Edge Of Night always looked good too at 5.10c!
If you are feeling really frisky, I don't think Rik Reider's Camp Four Terror has ever seen a repeat. A big wall route, right behind camp!
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valygrl
climber
Santa Cruz
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Dec 22, 2006 - 11:36am PT
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Ed "the other one is at New Diversions and is a really great climb (in my opinion) thin hands in a corner " yeah, that's the one I was thinking of. Must have been a memory drift from Doggie Diversions -> New Diversions. Oh well.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Dec 22, 2006 - 11:53am PT
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The absolutely best climb I've ever done back there is "Stay Free"
I've looked at that for years (you can see it from C4 parking lot) and have thought "Wow, gotta check that one out..."
That's as far as I've gotten, so far.
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lucho
Gym climber
San Franpsycho
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Dec 22, 2006 - 12:06pm PT
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Thats funny you should mention the snake in the crack up there. When we were checkin out a potential start to our climb I walked up to this splitter crack, stuck my fingers in the first few locks and as I took my fingers out a giant scorpion came crawling out of the crack. So we took it as a sign to start there. It ended up being a hard pitch called the Scorpion, and to my knowledge has only seen one true ascent by Oliver the Canadian Hardman.
Steve G. If its the same Camp 4 Terror thats up there a Kamps route from 63 , my buddy and I freed four new pitches up to the C4 Terror and freed to the top from there following the aid line, so yes it has seen a repeat. There was also evidence of someone being up there taking a different way to the summit, old aluminum hangers. The day we sent, Bridwell was sitting in a lawn chair in the old dirt lot in C4 watching us send through binos heckling us from below the whole way.
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