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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 22, 2006 - 01:31am PT
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Anyone been up there recently?
Any recommendations?
thx,
M
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 22, 2006 - 01:33am PT
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No wonder they call you mungeclimber ......
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2006 - 01:56am PT
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hrm, post isn't working.
try this again...
:)
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 22, 2006 - 02:23am PT
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ok munge, you asked for it...
Doggie Diversions
Doggie Deviations
Doggie Do
The Buttocks
Cheek
I've been on all of those (at least the first pitch), and I'm not taking responsibility for your journey if you decide to go up and to them... don't think they're in the data base though...
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2006 - 02:28am PT
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hrm, filth degree issue or sketch factor aka anal pucker rating?
thx Ed. I've been checking out the Reid guide but not much going on there.
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WBraun
climber
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Dec 22, 2006 - 02:32am PT
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The absolutely best climb I've ever done back there is "Stay Free"
But you have to work hard to get there, and it's burly.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2006 - 02:42am PT
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kewl, i'll check it out, probably don't have the umph to do burly stuff, but in vain hope of other aspirations, I'm slowly getting some wide gear so those 10a wide routes peppered throughout the valley may some thrutch. I seem to recall stay free being approached from the YF trail in the book.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Dec 22, 2006 - 02:42am PT
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Rob,
The Reid guide has topos, crack width/type notation, ratings, and even star ratings. If that is not enough, then I'm not sure what more could be desired. Videos with the move-by-move beta? Are you looking for written descriptions? Really? If so, there is the Roper guide.
If you want beta on several of the offwidths there, check out the collected beta from various sources on Alex's page:
http://www.monsteroffwidth.com/climbing-misc/yosemiteoffwidths/YosemiteOffwidths.html
I have heard that Chopper is pretty stout - probably best not to start on that one.
A simple approach would be to go up and warm up on one of the easier starred routes, like say Doggie Deviations. If that goes well, then look at some harder routes and try one that looks appealling.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2006 - 03:00am PT
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Looking for people to talk up climbing, especially in under appreciated areas on this politics forum. :)
Camp 4 wall is just one of those areas that I always wanted to hike up to, but never bothered. I know nothing so if something jumps out at someone speak up. Or are there new routes that haven't been reported?
Oddly enough there are quite a few routes that are not and never will be reported, but make for great info when emailed rather than posted. Sometimes a thread gets a fire going.
(nothing wrong with move by move beta if I suck at climbing. ;)
One key question I had is whether the place is buried in a water fall run off in winter? bad rock fall from the top?
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lucho
Gym climber
San Franpsycho
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Dec 22, 2006 - 03:02am PT
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I posted about our route when we first did it, didnt wanna spray. Anyways Dynamo Hum is really good too. Its on the approach
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2006 - 03:10am PT
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Lucho is good people!
thx!
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poop_tube
Big Wall climber
33° 45' N 117° 52' W
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Dec 22, 2006 - 04:03am PT
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werdd
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Ouch!
climber
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Dec 22, 2006 - 04:20am PT
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valygrl
climber
Santa Cruz
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Dec 22, 2006 - 10:10am PT
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The Doggie climbs are worth doing, the left one is a good lead, the right one has a somewhat thin flake. Last time I was up there, I placed a green camalot right next to a king snake in the crack. Cute! It's not a long walk.
Edit... I can't remember, is that where Chicken Pie is, too? Chicken Pie is excellent. Might be somewhere else, though.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Dec 22, 2006 - 10:45am PT
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There are two Chicken Pies, the one at Knob Hill was renamed Turkey Pie the other one is at New Diversions and is a really great climb (in my opinion) thin hands in a corner is what I remember.
The very cool thing about Camp 4 wall is that almost nobody goes up there. The snake in the crack is an old friend, really wonderful actually, and an indication of the spase presence of humans up there...
...we, Gary, Steve and I, where up there on some holiday weekend day, we heard the crowd down at Columbia Boulder cheering and applauding some master boulderer doing Midnight Lightning... quite a crowd, as it was elsewhere in the Valley that day. We were alone all day with the stone to ourselves.
The only people I've ever run into up there were Melissa and Kate, when Gary and I were on the "Chimney training circuit."
By the way, The Buttocks is pretty gravelly down low, and dirty/licheny in the chimney where there is also no pro. And the gully up hill from the base of that climb has evidence of rockfall (at least a couple of years ago), so the upper slopes might be a bit loose.
It is a great "obscure" area, ironically, right next to the center of the action. Looks like there is a lot of stuff to do up there still.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Dec 22, 2006 - 10:46am PT
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Chopper Flake is stout as an offwidth but less so if you lyback it. Dynamo Hum is hard for the grade (.11d). There;s another one back up there, the Left Side of something, that starts with a 10 offwidth and goes to 12a face moves. That;s also good and stout.
JL
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 22, 2006 - 11:28am PT
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Don't forget about Secret Storm unless it has been swallowed up by trees at the bottom! The upper crux is way fun and the lower 5.10a wide crux is very reasonable.
Do you still have to stuff yourself into the hole on Chopper Flake in order to grope and clip the bolts on the outside? The Edge Of Night always looked good too at 5.10c!
If you are feeling really frisky, I don't think Rik Reider's Camp Four Terror has ever seen a repeat. A big wall route, right behind camp!
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valygrl
climber
Santa Cruz
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Dec 22, 2006 - 11:36am PT
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Ed "the other one is at New Diversions and is a really great climb (in my opinion) thin hands in a corner " yeah, that's the one I was thinking of. Must have been a memory drift from Doggie Diversions -> New Diversions. Oh well.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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Dec 22, 2006 - 11:53am PT
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The absolutely best climb I've ever done back there is "Stay Free"
I've looked at that for years (you can see it from C4 parking lot) and have thought "Wow, gotta check that one out..."
That's as far as I've gotten, so far.
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lucho
Gym climber
San Franpsycho
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Dec 22, 2006 - 12:06pm PT
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Thats funny you should mention the snake in the crack up there. When we were checkin out a potential start to our climb I walked up to this splitter crack, stuck my fingers in the first few locks and as I took my fingers out a giant scorpion came crawling out of the crack. So we took it as a sign to start there. It ended up being a hard pitch called the Scorpion, and to my knowledge has only seen one true ascent by Oliver the Canadian Hardman.
Steve G. If its the same Camp 4 Terror thats up there a Kamps route from 63 , my buddy and I freed four new pitches up to the C4 Terror and freed to the top from there following the aid line, so yes it has seen a repeat. There was also evidence of someone being up there taking a different way to the summit, old aluminum hangers. The day we sent, Bridwell was sitting in a lawn chair in the old dirt lot in C4 watching us send through binos heckling us from below the whole way.
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salad
climber
San Diego
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Dec 22, 2006 - 12:43pm PT
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did the doggies years ago, they were fun. i remember following doug L. up one of em and looking down to see my figger ate only half tied.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Dec 22, 2006 - 01:36pm PT
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The Doggies, plus edge, seceret, and chopper would make a worthy climbing area all by themselves.
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nutjob
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Dec 22, 2006 - 01:38pm PT
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Definitely do the doggie climbs. The .10a offwidth one is very short (more of a brief top-rope thing), but it's very grunty.
One is a fairly unprotected but easy chimney for ~20 feet, then a very awkward right-leaning hand/fist/layback crack. Make sure you have more wide gear than a single #4 camalot (save something for higher up or you'll get pucker ring).
Approach is pretty short from camp4 compared to most of the longer climbs in the valley (but then you only get a few pitches of climbing).
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 22, 2006 - 03:05pm PT
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The absolutely best climb I've ever done back there is "Stay Free"
ah yes, the panty shield. another mortimer classico obscuro.
get 'er done, rob!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2006 - 07:09pm PT
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I got some shoes shipping to the house as we speak (non slipper unlike the rest of my shoes it seems like). Practice some cheese gratering at Josh, then go the Valley and YNP in January. Camp 4 wall is it me thinks.
Good thread, thx all.
Crap, that reminds me of resoling I need to bring to Nomad.
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Dec 22, 2006 - 07:23pm PT
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Isn't there a Bob the Aid Man masterpiece up on the Camp 4 wall?
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le_bruce
climber
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Dec 22, 2006 - 07:40pm PT
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This is pointing out the obvious, but Henley Quits is a blast. A very memorable pitch of climbing for sure. Lancelot is fun, 5.9 fists. The Embrace of El Cid is a weird, cool pitch - took me 10 minutes to get off the ground.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 23, 2006 - 09:00pm PT
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Lucho- Pretty rare opportunity to see anybody up there on C4T! Complete with Inspector Bridwell at the spyglass. He must have been amazed. There is so much decent looking stone up there I am not surprised that you found something interesting. My mistake about Rik Reider on the FA. Kamps and Rearick forty six years ago! Wonder what the "terror" was all about? It takes a bit to rattle that duo. Any expanding or loose mandatory climbing in the portion of the original route that you did?
Edit: Any body ever do the bolted second pitch to Henley Quits? I failed on it decades ago and always wondered if something broke off because it weren't 5.11a for me.
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James
climber
A tent in the redwoods
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Dec 23, 2006 - 09:33pm PT
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Word on the street is that The Camp Four Terrorist, the free wall ascending the Camp Four wall, is a total pile of choss and involves 5.11 pulls on grass piles and .12- mantles onto munge. Honestly though, I'm a little jealous of Lucho.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 23, 2006 - 10:09pm PT
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That would certainly explain some of the terror, eh? Sounds like old school fun to me. Is it really that dicey, Lucho?
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lucho
Gym climber
San Franpsycho
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Dec 24, 2006 - 12:54am PT
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Dicey? I dont know if I'd call it that. Adventurous Yes! The fifth pitch does have some mandatory bay tree climbing with some creative pro, but all in all that was the only bushy pitch, there was some digging on lead up high (second to last pitch) but nothin you wouldnt expect to run into when something hasnt been climbed in years. I dont remember any mandatory loose climbing. It would be rad if someone went up and checked out the climb, I think the first four pitches could be classic, steep face and crack climbing on really good rock. If you want I'll post a topo here. I sent a copy to C-Mac for his Yosemite Obscurities but he never added it to his page, also I met Don Reid in the Caff one morning and gave him a copy , it was cool to talk to someone that showed some interest in the C4 Wall.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Dec 24, 2006 - 01:50am PT
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was cool to talk to someone that showed some interest in the C4 Wall.
wtf?? everything i've done up there was stellar. no more choss on the C4+ wall than, say, sentinal or reeds or half the short crags down in the merced river valley.
go NORTH, young man!11!
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Dec 24, 2006 - 11:36am PT
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Rieder soloed a new route on the Camp 4 wall in May of 73. I remembering meeting him at the top of the Falls trail on his decent.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 28, 2006 - 12:25am PT
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Thanks Mark,
Always nice to know that I'm not losing my mind after all these years! Isn't Fallout up there too, speaking of spicy offwidths?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 14, 2012 - 05:07pm PT
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nostalgic 06 bump
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Classroom to crag to summer camp
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Mar 14, 2012 - 05:18pm PT
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I'd love any info on Rieder's Comedy of Folly 5.9 A4.
FA History would be cool
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splitter
Trad climber
Hodad surfing the galactic plane
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Mar 15, 2012 - 12:35am PT
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Yea, Secret Storm is really nice, and also very clean from what I recall. Only remember one crux which was the offwidth move or two about 10-20ft below the rap station.
edit: Oh, guess the topic of this thread has changed/didn't notice the '06 date of the initial discussion.
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Dave Davis
Social climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 15, 2012 - 06:14pm PT
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Dave Anderson did a gradeV type of route up the Camp 4 wall sometime back in the mid seventies. Unfortunately since Dave is no longer with us and I can't remember who he did it with I can't elaborate beyond that other than the fact that he named the route Frankenstein.
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 16, 2012 - 12:05am PT
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Pile of sh!t!
Stay away unless you like garbage.
Me and Dale Bard tried the thin crack just to the left.
Couldn't get up face to the crack.
So we ran away ......
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 16, 2012 - 01:18am PT
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Cool topo, Rik - here is a combined version.
I have Lucho's topo and it will be fun to see how they fit together.
This one looks like it's not on Camp 4 Wall, judging from the orange lichen?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2012 - 01:37am PT
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nice, an 06 bump makes good!
Rik, thx!!!
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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Mar 16, 2012 - 01:45am PT
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Where is Childhood's End? I remember going over there with Walt and Russ once. I know it was on that side of the valley and walking distance.
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 16, 2012 - 01:53am PT
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Childhood's End is when you turned 13 or left of the good book ....
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 16, 2012 - 10:32am PT
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That's Fallout, Donini's testpiece.
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Erik Sloan
climber
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Mar 16, 2012 - 12:35pm PT
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I'm confused. Are there two routes, one called Comedy of Folly and one called Comedy of Terror? Because from the line in the Reid book it doesn't appear that the Comedy of Folly route started on the Camp 4 Terror route.
Camp 4 wall route list:
Frankenstein Dave Anderson and ?
Comedy of Folly
Camp 4 Terror
Camp 4 Terrorist
Dan Oppenheim and Jason Torlano's new route--anyone know the name?
Klaus put something up there too, right?
Jordan and I put the scope on the wall yesterday and it looked like good times.
cheers,
erik
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Mar 16, 2012 - 01:47pm PT
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This one looks like it's not on Camp 4 Wall, judging from the orange lichen?
It's just above and can be accessed by cl. 3 scrambling or more directly by climbing Gillette (5.10c 4P). The left crack that splits the roof is Fallout(5.10c OW through the roof ,2p) and the right crack is Jolly Green Giant (5.9, 3P). It looks like you could have a nice long wyde day by linking either of these with Gillette!
I think Camp 4 Tree is the larger pine in this picture?
Is WBraun referring to a different route? According to the Reid guide you ascend a 5.7 corner, to a 5.9 bombay chimney below the OW.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 16, 2012 - 04:05pm PT
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So Rik did a largely or entirely new route, in about 1974, solo, that's graded V, 5.9, A4? Pretty impressive, huh?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 16, 2012 - 11:46pm PT
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If you did it in winter, there might be hoarfrost on it. Or fourfrost, if you prefer. But probably not Tom Frost.
ps I bet Ken would love to get that topo for the proposed museum.
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 17, 2012 - 12:13am PT
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It is the better route.
Bolt on holds, some chipping and drilled out finger pockets and the face to the start of the crack will then go.
When rain stops I will start my project.
I'll use air impact gun to drill.
Air is natural and doesn't fall under power tool ban.
Come up with good name .... for it.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 17, 2012 - 12:48am PT
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Cool, I see where Fallout is on the xRez photo now - the Camp 4 Tree is definitely right there. For some reason, I thought Rik's photo was direct from xRez, but the xRez photo has Fallout in the shade (poorly lit).
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Mar 17, 2012 - 03:05am PT
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see above, that's what Werner and I are talkin' bout
Doh! It all makes sense now :-)
Here are two other photos that help show the area:
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Mar 17, 2012 - 05:18am PT
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We should head up there and bolt on a couple holds to make it go. You people are all cool with that these days, correct?
Screw the next generation, I want to climb it NOW, ala Skinner!
The Reid guide has a route in Merced Canyon with a plastic gym hold added to make the route work. LOL.
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TomCochrane
Trad climber
Santa Cruz Mountains and Monterey Bay
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Mar 17, 2012 - 05:18am PT
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Kamps pointed out the route to me from Camp 4 shortly after they did it. They started up the ramp thinking it would be a moderate lark. The higher they got, the less happy they were to be there and all the much less happy with the impracticality of rappelling straight down into the accumulating overhanging terrain; hence the name.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 17, 2012 - 05:20am PT
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Thanks, Tom. The Roper guide mentions the same thing - difficulty of retreat.
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Mar 17, 2012 - 11:34am PT
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The Reid guide has a route in Merced Canyon with a plastic gym hold added to make the route work. LOL.
that would be Fantasy Island courtesy Dave Schultz.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 17, 2012 - 01:48pm PT
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here's another view...
I mean, how hard could it be?
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Mar 17, 2012 - 03:45pm PT
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Dang wish I would have known about stay free. When was the fa?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 17, 2012 - 03:59pm PT
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The FA of Stay Free was in 1986; in 1987 they did Southern Belle.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Mar 18, 2012 - 11:58pm PT
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Ed, that has got to be one of the best photos I've seen of lower Camp 4 Wall. You can clearly see P2 of Doggie Diversions! Mind if I use a cropped version of it for some route annotations? You can see the crux of Tweedle Dee very nicely on it - actually you can see all 3 pitches of the route very well. Also, Doggie Deviations, upper pitches of Doggie Diversions, the Buttocks & the descent from the routes that top out on the crag. Also also, Secret Storm & Edge of Night.
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bit'er ol' guy
climber
the past
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Mar 19, 2012 - 12:43am PT
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gee let me grab one of a million Valley guide books
or just google camp 4 wall
then pass it off on ST as first hand knowledge.
It you haven't done it-don't recommendit-f*#kkin' bloody SANDBAGERS!!!
"I heard it was good"
my ass!
????
from who?
I was just there,
nothing other than the doggie dog dik climbs
looked like they had been climbed in a 1,000 years.
Go ahead recommendit to some guy on ST-Cool!
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Mar 19, 2012 - 01:31am PT
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Someone sounds bitter ;-)
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Mar 19, 2012 - 01:53am PT
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Oh, right, Stay Free. Is that where the "Panty Shield" is? I remember Walt ranting about it in like 1987 or something.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Mar 19, 2012 - 03:19am PT
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Clint's overlays would lead one to believe there is still some undone lines up there.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Mar 19, 2012 - 10:55am PT
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bvb, Walt and I were shooting the sh#t in C4 parking lot and ogling the Panty Shield back in 86. We started talking about route possibilities up there and he asked me if I wanted to go do what would become Stay Free. LOL somehow that ole snail eye got real big knowing my skills and Walt's go for it rep, so I politely declined. But yeah, it's on the right edge of the Panty Shield.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Mar 19, 2012 - 03:09pm PT
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PellucidWombat usually I assume that the images I post can be used for non-commercial purposes with my permission (though I know, obviously I have no control once they are posted) and the slightest requirement to attribute their origin to me...
all that being said, that's a photomerge of 8 images of something like 40 images of the area... specifically for a purpose to be known soon (hopefully)...
...anyway, derivatives off that image are welcome and encouraged! (that's why I posted it).
ß Î Ø T Ç H, nothing to pay attention to there folk, just move along...
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SGropp
Mountain climber
Eastsound, Wa
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Mar 19, 2012 - 03:19pm PT
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Frankenstein was done in 76. I think Dave Andersons partner was named Brent ---?
They were up there quite a while, long enough to get their vehicle parked in the Sunnyside lot impounded by the rangers.
They said the route was hard and scary and they were all scratched up and covered with poison oak blisters from the descent.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Mar 19, 2012 - 03:45pm PT
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nothing to pay attention to there folk, just move along... Wink wink - nod nod
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Mar 19, 2012 - 03:55pm PT
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Rik's original topo matches up very well with the xRez photo from 30+ years later
I was in Camp 4 while Rik was soloing the route. His girlfriend (whose name I've forgotten) was giving us a rather engaging, move-for-move running commentary. His topo and the line shown match my memory, to the extent I can trust it after 39 years.
Incidentally, am I the only one who thinks Tweedle Dee is good training, particularly for a left-side-in flared chimney?
John
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 19, 2012 - 06:16pm PT
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Pretty cool that the info on Frankenstein is surfacing, 36 years later!
Cool to see Rik's original topo, too.
Thanks for posting up, you guys.
Now the next task is to find it, and somehow avoid the poison oak? :-)
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lucho
Trad climber
California
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Mar 19, 2012 - 10:41pm PT
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When Cedar and I free climbed the Camp 4 Wall we started at a 5.8 chimney wide corner thing left of an obvious line (Klaus' Camp Whore or The Scorpion) that starts just behind the large tree at the base of the Camp 4 Wall (tree #2). The Scorpion name came from the first day we hiked up there, it was hot as hell, the shade had just arrived and we had been walking the base looking for a start to our route. From what we had scoped from the lot down at camp we were at a few of the weaknesses we had seen through binocs. Not knowing it had been aid climbed we walked up to Klaus' Camp Whore and I stuck my finger in the first finger lock at the start of the crack. It was splitter and clean! I removed my finger and just then a scorpion came crawling out of the crack right were my finger had been. Now being a city boy it was my first scorpion encounter, I watched the thing crawl down the crack onto the ground and into the bushes, I was freaked out. I also kinda thought it was a sign that we should start there! The Scorpion name given was just another stupid attempt at renaming someones route just cause it got freeclimbed.
We originally tried to free Klaus' "Camp Whore" but toiled for a month trying to lead the thing, both of us just flailed miserably. Cedar went away on some trip and I wanted to push the route further past the impossible first pitch so my friend Max and I took a less appealing start over to the left. That day we pushed our route up another couple pitches but after that I had to wait til Cedar came back, cause I hate climbing alone and I couldnt get anyone to go up there with me.
Eventually months after we had finished our route Cedar went back and red/pink pointed with an unknown partner. Apparently the Canadian hard-man Oliver sent it placing gear and all and called it 5.13.
Now thinking back I do remember trying to free a pitch going upwards near pitch 7 or 8 , we saw the aluminum hangers on cool featured steep rock. It was super spicy in parts and truly horrifying in others, we eventually made it to the belay after much dogging and lowering each other to let the other try and make it to what looked like what might be a belay. Thankfully it was but what we saw above just looked like more of the same, free climbing mixed with hooking with homemade aluminum hangers for pro - sketch. We lowered back down and continued on the "ramp" of the Camp 4 Terror.
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PellucidWombat
Mountain climber
Berkeley, CA
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Mar 20, 2012 - 08:22pm PT
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Incidentally, am I the only one who thinks Tweedle Dee is good training, particularly for a left-side-in flared chimney?
I loved that route. One of my favorite chimneys! Nicely done in 2 long pitches, and I found it to be a great route to practice cam pushing.
P1. Photo by Justin
About to enter the 5.8 crux flare. Photo by Justin
5.8 flare crux
Pushing a #5 cam, my only pro for most of the pitch, but very secure.
Through the flaring crux, now I can squeeze with all 4 appendages
Looking down from near the end of the last pitch
I'm tempted to go back to do the right-start chimney to see how it compares to the standard first pitch. Also, the way we tried it worked out well, where we warmed up by climbing P1 of Doggie Diversions, which put us right below the start of the route.
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Dave Davis
Social climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 20, 2012 - 08:45pm PT
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Brent Hoffman in all likelihood was the guy that Dave Anderson did Frankenstein with.Dave was a fairly prolific first ascensionist who rarely made a big deal about what he did so unfortunately many of his routes have faded into obscurity or got their first ascent years latter.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 21, 2012 - 03:20pm PT
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Thanks for sharing.
I see from reading TripL7's post on the "Bruce Carson's hammerless solo of Sentinel West Face,1974" thread that it was kind of a policy for Dave Anderson and others to not report their first ascents:
"I did about 4-5 first ascents in the Valley with Dave, all in the .10+ or harder range, primarily 2-3 pitches. Dave would always ask "What should we call them..." They were great climbs, but he decided to not include them in the "route notebook"! There was such a focus on new routes and getting your name in the guidebook, that a handful of the Seattle/Pacific NW boy's decided to just "Shine that scene!!"(F*#k that scene)and not document/record their new routes! They were all eventually redone and claimed by various individuals of that time period."
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=445546&msg=1209070#msg1209070
The non-reporting of FAs was advocated by some folks in the 70s as a way to reduce what was perceived as crowding at that time. In sympathy with the ecological / Earth Day movement of the times, I think. Of course the excitement of exploration was never really dimmed, just the way it might be communicated socially.
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Erik Sloan
climber
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May 12, 2012 - 01:39pm PT
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Last Saturday Richie and I topped out a new bigwall on Camp 4 Wall. Good ol Boy VI 5.8 A2. What a sweet wall!
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Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
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May 12, 2012 - 03:59pm PT
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Now this is getting interesting . . .
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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May 13, 2012 - 01:45am PT
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I believe Nanook was asked a question. How 'bout it?
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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May 13, 2012 - 02:55pm PT
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Do you think he'll answer, Klaus? Usually he'll do some evasion tactic.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
the secret topout on the Chockstone Chimney
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May 13, 2012 - 03:11pm PT
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Kirk- would you answer this question on the friggin' internet? Not sanctioning anything, but...come on.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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May 13, 2012 - 04:00pm PT
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I'm just trying to let him know that folks aren't into his program. It jeopardizes all of us. There's gotta be a way to make it Stop.
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Erik Sloan
climber
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May 14, 2012 - 02:08am PT
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Yo Gang,
Almost done with the GOB topo. 13 pitches, 12 new--we started on the first 5.8 pitch of Camp 4 Terrorist.
No Klaus, we didn't need no power drill. This route has only 12 lead bolts in 13 pitches, and is really, really good climbing. Super grippy rock and stellar A1 cracks for miles.
I can't believe I didn't even hike up there until this year.
more soon,
erik
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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May 14, 2012 - 03:52am PT
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Drilling, within spitting-distance of a perfect crack?
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Pass the Chongo, Chongo
Social climber
IN CAVE IN YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK
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May 14, 2012 - 04:46am PT
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Drilling, within spitting-distance of a perfect crack?
SOOO GO CLIMB IT... POST A PICTURE OF YOU IN THE SAME SPOT W/ A NATURAL BELAY... TILL THEN YER AN ARM CHAIR AID CLIMBER....
NONOOK aint all bad!!!! He's made some small mistakes, but who hasnt... YOSEMITE AINT NO F*#KING WILDERNESS... AS LONG AS YOU DONT USE A POWER DRILL ANY MORE THAN YOU WOULD A HAND DRILL, WHATS THE F*#KING DIFFERENCE!!!! (not saying thats what he did) BUT THATS MY OPINION OF A POWER DRILL. OH AND ALL YOU F*#KING HIPPIES BITCHING ABOUT LIMBING ON TRAILS.... **I HOPE YOU TAKE A F*#KING STICK TO THE EYE** AGAIN THE EL CAP BASE AINT NO F*#KING WILDERNESS
HATERS LICK MY BALLS
CHONGo
DID THE first 2 pitches of COMEDY of TERRORs in 93 then went right another pitch of A4 AND BAILED...
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Erik Sloan
climber
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May 15, 2012 - 12:38pm PT
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Yo Biotch
This route is super natural. Three of the belays are trees, and two have only one bolt.
get sum,
erik
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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May 15, 2012 - 02:35pm PT
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Climbing on the Camp 4 Wall is like going to the Moab area and climbing at Potash Road- why do it?
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cragnshag
Social climber
san joser
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May 15, 2012 - 02:48pm PT
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why do it?
Because it's there.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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May 15, 2012 - 03:02pm PT
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Nice go, regardless of the novelty.
More ramps than a parcade, Tower of Pain, the midges on the approach, oh the horror!
What has happened to the climb we used to do called the Sphincter? Did it get some PC re-name? It was a marginal 5.9. Looked exactly like its name.
It was near HQ, I think.
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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May 15, 2012 - 03:07pm PT
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The Camp 4 Wall, in addition to some good crack climbs, also had Dynamo Hum which, until it was freed, was known as Camp 4 Tree from South Base, and was a popular A1 beginner's lead. I'd enlarged the pin scars a couple of times on that route.
Art Brook and I started up Nanook's line in late April of 1971, only to be snowed off. In retreating down the wall, we came across Henley Quits shortly after its first ascent. I say this because the pitch was supplied with full pre-placed piton protection, before that was standard practice. In that condition, we were able to get up the first pitch.
The left side of that formation is Christina. It starts out with a 5.10 OW or lieback (I think the lieback is rated easier now). The second pitch, which I haven't done, looks like some rather difficult, bolt-protected face climbing. The first pitch was quite nice, at least in 1973, however.
John
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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May 15, 2012 - 03:12pm PT
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How about because it is a refreshingly nice place to climb, a change of pace and of place, a chance to get away,
to distance themselves
far from the mad natterers
who would gladly steal their route
if they could.
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karodrinker
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Jul 22, 2012 - 12:50pm PT
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nice job eric, that looks like a fun route. How loose is it up there?
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Erik Sloan
climber
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Jul 22, 2012 - 04:17pm PT
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Thanks.
Not loose at all. Once we got to the Camp 4 Terror ramp at the top of the third pitch I was sure we were gonna start finding anchor slings and whatnot, the route was so splitter and the rock quality so good.
The view from Camp 4 Wall is really good too, and with half day shade it's not that cooker.
The one drawback is the descent, which takes a minimum of 4-5 hours as you have to hike all the way up and over to the top of Yose Falls and then down the Falls trail.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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did the original Camp 4 Terror take the diagonal ramp from the start (as described by Roper), or did it go direct as Rik's topo implies? [it appears to be the diagonal]
Let us know!