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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Sep 19, 2016 - 10:44pm PT
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anxiety is the bi-product of trying to run the universe,
lot of people out there, gotta watch em,
blow yourself up into a prideful balloon, with the illusion that you are better than everybody else,
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Sep 19, 2016 - 11:47pm PT
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Protect the legacy at all costs! There are so many as#@&%es out to bring you down to the level of putrid scum. An extra bolt and chains on their anchors! Rap from tat wankers! Unbefukinglievable!
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Sep 20, 2016 - 12:41am PT
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Good job! I remember being inspired by that picture of Ed Barry long ago.
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madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Denver, CO
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Sep 20, 2016 - 01:30am PT
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anxiety is the bi-product of trying to run the universe,
lot of people out there, gotta watch em,
blow yourself up into a prideful balloon, with the illusion that you are better than everybody else,
Yup, that is EXACTLY the perspective of the retro-bolters.
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Degaine
climber
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Sep 20, 2016 - 03:43am PT
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Tom wrote:
Steve,
When PTPP and I redrilled Bermuda Dunes, we made sure to ask you first. You were in your van near the El Cap bridge,
Wait, what?
Steve lives in a van down by the river?
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j-tree
Big Wall climber
Typewriters and Ledges
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Sep 20, 2016 - 09:26am PT
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Pretty sure Vitaliy was joking/trolling.
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Sep 20, 2016 - 09:39am PT
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Actually, I thought it was good. Spontaneous, not over-practiced. I liked your response regardless of what instigated it. :D
I probably would have changed this line, but that's just me.
If people don't like it they can go jump on one of the thousand routes waiting to be done in the style of your choosing in the grand canyon of the Tuolumne...right over there and virtually in sight of this route.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Sep 20, 2016 - 10:31am PT
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Countless Thousands? Interesting. Yeah yeah, another thread bashing my generation of climbers. Funny how you guys always preach "Leave it for the next generation..." well look where that got you. Haha.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Sep 20, 2016 - 11:00am PT
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Awesome Steve.
Now if the retro-bolters would tell everyone when they added bolts, we'd at least know the culprits. ;)
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Friend
climber
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Sep 20, 2016 - 11:06am PT
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+1 Steve
I've eyeballed that route and always wanted to give it a try. It looks totally wild. For anyone who aspires to lead hard cracks, it would be a major bummer finding a bolt on the traverse. Great job. Keep it up.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Sep 20, 2016 - 11:30am PT
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Yeah I'm all for what Steve did. I bumped the Bachar Yerian thread the other day and not ten posts later it turned into a "surprised it hasn't been retrobolted, blah, blah, damn kids these days."
Climbing is way too serious for me I guess or I don't take it seriously enough, Climb on.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Sep 20, 2016 - 12:58pm PT
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It is a beautiful line climbed by visionary climbers with minimal impact to the stone. I think the problem these days is lack of respect for the vision that created the routes, and the medium itself. Personally, I don't get satisfaction from dragging someone else's accomplishment down to my level. If I am not up to climbing a route as is, I just tip my hat to the creators and move on.
Good work Steve.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Sep 20, 2016 - 01:04pm PT
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it is not nice to add bolts to existing routes without a permission from the FA party, but there is as much legacy in climbing new routes as in chasing the wind. The added bolts should not stain the personal joy experienced while climbing into the unknown. Maybe bolts will be added to some of my routes, I don't really care much as long as I don't have to do the extra work. When we are put into the ground, there will be no say of how many bolts we want up on the route we did some day. What matters is the personal experience we have while walking these streets. Glad Steve is doing the thing that makes him happy now and is letting the world know about his stance when it comes to his routes. Looks like a good route, hope to try it some day, in order to appreciate it personally.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Sep 20, 2016 - 01:06pm PT
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All of this demand for "convenience" is impacting the resource in ways that cannot be appreciated over years, but only over decades
What demand? Do you even climb with my generation, cause the people I climb with have never mentioned convenience (Ok maybe one guy I know). You think a few dumb acts by a select group of people represents my generation?
You don't know sh#t about my perspective, so don't preach to me about my experience level. Please refrain from doing so at your convenience:-)
Yosemite is a zoo, always cracks me up to hear how climbers are destroying it. Pump the tourists in and out each day.
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JLP
Social climber
The internet
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Sep 20, 2016 - 01:32pm PT
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Good job on the climbing stewardship - but claiming a route on public land is "my art, my choreography" to justify the matter is nonsense.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Sep 20, 2016 - 01:57pm PT
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Climbing is way too serious for me I guess or I don't take it seriously enough, Climb on.
I think I might have taken it too seriously.
You may not have heard the word "convenience" but if you have never heard someone whine about an approach or anchor, protection availability or rap station then I wonder just who you are climbing with...? Glad to hear your partners never, ever wonder about such things and wish someone would add a bolt here or there? Doubtful. And there you have it. You doubt my generation. Namaste and sh#t and convenience.
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Sep 20, 2016 - 02:35pm PT
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Gym climber
Sep 20, 2016 - 02:27pm PT
Justin I'm going climbing after work, you want to go? The approach is going to suck, it's super long, its not too convenient to send the gnar without Facebook signal, there's super sketch rap tree I am so scared of but I am learning trad!!! It'll be fun.
Bro.
Wtf dude, you are embarrassing me in front of my hardcore trad climbing friends. Now they are going to know I'm still learning trad and my experience level is cute. Does sound splitter though, if you add a real anchor I'm down.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Sep 20, 2016 - 02:55pm PT
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Just in,
Semper Farcisimus!
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this just in
climber
Justin Ross from North Fork
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Sep 20, 2016 - 03:03pm PT
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Semper Farcisimus!
Sh#t yeah!
And Gate in!
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BruceHildenbrand
Social climber
Mountain View/Boulder
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Sep 20, 2016 - 03:14pm PT
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One of the problems here is that not everyone is 'invested' in climbing at the same level. By 'invested' I mean a lot more than just risk level. I was so 'invested' in climbing that I took two years out of college to live in Yosemite.
It's a two-way street here. Sure, there are routes that require a lot of 'investment', but there are a lot of routes which just require you to grab a rack of draws and clip bolts every few feet. Both these types of routes can coexist. People should not believe that they should be able to climb every route with minimal 'investment'. If you want to climb a route like Bachar-Yerian, then you better be pretty heavily 'invested' in climbing. If you aren't, there are a number of routes in that same area(Excellent Smithers, Shagadellic, Goldmember) which require much less 'investment.'
Everybody can co-exist.
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