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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
I'm James Brown, Bi-atch!
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Sep 27, 2016 - 02:33am PT
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old argument, fun loving Harding vs ego driven Robbins,
no law says you have to use the existing bolts, if you don't have a family why not take a good bounce once in a while?
no bolts on my routes, or anchors, or ropes, just mountain lions waiting for a tasty morsel to break a hold,
Pablo Escobar never used bolts, jus sayin, wtf, over?
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Degaine
climber
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Sep 27, 2016 - 03:57am PT
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CCT wrote:
The South Crack run-out is on 5.6 terrain. Even 5.8 climbers usually feel ok on a small amount of 5.6 run-out. Bump that run-out to 5.9, and the number of climbers would plummet.
Like most climbers, you probably aren't aware of how many 5.9/5.10 routes similar to South Crack, but slightly harder, exist in Tuolumne. They don't get climbed much because they aren't in the Supertopo, because Supertopo deliberately excludes most free-solos or x-rated climbs. As Ed says, most of the nicest lines have been done, and kudos to the bravery of the first ascent team. But they are not common knowledge unless you look for it.
I am aware of more than some and less than others, but WTF are you talking about.
Also, captain obvious, of course the number of climbers drops as the difficulty rating goes up. Bump that runout to 5.14 and the number of climbers will drop even more. What's your point?
Look, on any given sunny weekend in Tuolumne, there are plenty of climbers all over any number of domes, and the runout nature of quality granite friction climbs is one of the reasons people head to Tuolumne.
There are climbers all of the time on Table of Contents, with its 10b runout first pitch and its rusty bolt 10a runout third pitch. People literally line up to climb the Dike Route on Pywiack, and I've been surprised to see people regularly climbing El Condor on DAFF dome (ok, only 5.8) in spite of the RX rating. Ditto for the last pitch of Crying Time Again (the original finish not the ST finish, the pitch with one coffin nail as protection for the entire pitch).
Cheers.
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shipoopoi
Big Wall climber
oakland
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 28, 2016 - 06:44pm PT
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wow, climb on el cap for a week and a thread takes off. nice to see the discussion on this topic. i hope the law never has to intervene on retrobolting and that we can police ourselves. i left the top anchor bolts in place, so that if anybody does want to set up a toprope, then that is easy enough to do. this climb was never runout...in the sense that it protect everywhere, its a crack that cams fit. basically, it was putting bolts next to a previously climbed crack, not cool. the retrobolter was sorry that he had done it in the first place. ss
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Escopeta
Trad climber
Idaho
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Sep 28, 2016 - 07:09pm PT
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Yeah, so sorry that he ran right out there and fixed it.... lol
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ruppell
climber
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Sep 28, 2016 - 07:12pm PT
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There are climbers all of the time on Table of Contents, with its 10b runout first pitch and its rusty bolt 10a runout third pitch.
Ummm, TOC isn't even close to runout by TM standards. I have no idea why the guide books give it an R rating. Most people bail after the second pitch but the rest of the route is well worth doing.
If you wanna see some real TM runouts head over to Fairview dome and get on some of lesser traveled routes.
As far as retro bolting goes, add, chop, add, chop. You guys know the drill. How many times has Hair Raiser Buttress been added to then chopped? And that was apparently with the FA's approval.
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tuolumne_tradster
Trad climber
Leading Edge of North American Plate
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Sep 28, 2016 - 07:56pm PT
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If you wanna see some real TM runouts head over to Fairview dome and get on some of lesser traveled routes
e.g., the "Sea of Knobs" pitch on Sorcerer's Apprentice
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cuvvy
Sport climber
arkansas
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Sep 30, 2016 - 12:29am PT
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Someone will always have to dumb it down
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Sep 30, 2016 - 05:53am PT
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bump that run-out to 5.9, and the number of climbers would plummet.
Interesting image.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Sep 30, 2016 - 01:03pm PT
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If any FA guys want to remove retro bolts from one of your climbs, I can help with wilderness friendly, hand powered tools.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Sep 30, 2016 - 01:23pm PT
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^^^^ Brilliant!
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Sep 30, 2016 - 02:03pm PT
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Nice! That's about the best stud removal tool I've ever seen.
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Banquo
climber
Amerricka
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Sep 30, 2016 - 08:34pm PT
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Ed remarking "brilliant" is flattering but I must point out that quite a few people have been working on ways to take out wedge bolts - they just post elsewhere.
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