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High Fructose Corn Spirit
Gym climber
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Aug 19, 2016 - 08:21am PT
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darkhydro, your posts make perfect sense. Don't let a few here sour your interest or experience. Good luck and have fun.
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 19, 2016 - 08:29am PT
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Geezus god almighty is this forum so full of sh!t.
The guy is looking for a partner to climb a classic, that's all.
Nobody steps up to the plate instead all this stupid bullsh!t constant lecturing.
I've taken complete n00bs up there with just a 7mm rope and 6 caribiners.
I didn't even use a harness.
Such a simple thing.
Stupoor-topo blah blah blah blah
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Aug 19, 2016 - 09:35am PT
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For the record I didn't say anything about telling him not to do it and I have jumped into the deep end many times myself. I'm just giving him information that I would have appreciated at that stage of my climbing career.
It's probably more fun to climb something like Munginella first, get your multi-pitch climbing dialed in, then you can do snake dike without taking a long time on it. But it's probably more memorable to jump on a super classic for your first time and have an epic experience. Take your pic.
I would also add the advice, buy and read Hans Florine's Speed Climbing book. It's not about rushing, it's about efficiency. I have a lot more fun on climbs where I'm not concerned about making it to the top before it gets dark, or making it to the bar before it closes. And I'm not waiting at a belay for my partner to get ready.
I guess that's one of my pet peeves. I get irritated when I'm leading call off belay, setup a belay for the follower, call on belay, and have to wait 10 minutes for the follower to start climbing. On an 8 pitch climb that's 80 minutes of waiting.
For a guy who has identified himself as a first time trad climber I like to give a little heads up on what to watch out for.
One time when I did snake dike I let a partner make the call as to when to get on the climb and we ended up starting late behind a really slow party from the east coast. They were technically strong climbers but it was their first time out west. We waited until they were finishing the third pitch before even leaving the ground. The people lined up behind us were getting pissed asking to pass us, and I said no, we'll catch up to these guys in no time. We climbed 4 pitches in the time it took them to climb one, and ended up waiting at the next couple belays at least a half hour each until we could pass them. They were so freaked out by the exposure that they continued to belay on the 3rd/4th class slabs after pitch 8. I'm not saying that you would be like that, but just giving an example of where some guys probably didn't really know what to expect when jumping on a long trad climb.
With all that said, sorry yes I'm wordy, it IS a great climb. To one of the most magical spots on the planet. So you should go for it. Just either climb another multipitch first, or practice the process in the gym/local crag.
And WBraun you also said it would be no big deal for gugglimucci to rap the Nose. Look how that turned out.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Aug 19, 2016 - 09:41am PT
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I've taken complete n00bs up there with just a 7mm rope and 6 caribiners.
I didn't even use a harness.
Duck spray!!!!!!!!!!!
the most boring walk-up I've ever done
In fairness to my brother,
Mouse spray!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Aug 19, 2016 - 09:51am PT
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oh yeah?
I've taken noobs up there with 50 feet of parachute cord, two biners and a sixer. Left the noobs at the base and took the sixer, soloed, in the moonlight with one chaco and one left five finger on my right foot. Left foot was bare.
you'll be fine.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Aug 19, 2016 - 10:11am PT
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I'm a little baffled by some of these responses. It's seriously maybe 30 feet of 5.6-5.7 and 770 feet of 5.3. Runouts are long but just enough to keep you thoughtful while scrambling up a dinosaur spine. And all the belays are bolted, and none of them are hanging; clipping in and switching over is not a big hassle. I wish my car wasn't broken so I could run up and do it with you. I'd gladly eat the 4 hour drive to do it again.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Aug 19, 2016 - 12:29pm PT
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I think it would be irresponsible to say "yeah an 8 pitch climb, with 100 foot runouts, and 6-8 hours of hiking, sounds like a great idea for your FIRST trad climb", at least not with adding some caveats.
Again if someone's willing to lead the way it would be very fun and doable.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Aug 19, 2016 - 02:45pm PT
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Aug 19, 2016 - 08:29am PT
Geezus god almighty is this forum so full of sh!t.
The guy is looking for a partner to climb a classic, that's all.
Nobody steps up to the plate instead all this stupid bullsh!t constant lecturing.
I've taken complete n00bs up there with just a 7mm rope and 6 caribiners.
I didn't even use a harness.
Such a simple thing.
Stupoor-topo blah blah blah blah
Glad you volunteered, Werner. I know you two will have a great time.
Post up some pics.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Aug 19, 2016 - 09:54pm PT
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6 carabiners and a 7mm? Werner is opening himself up for a serious lawsuit. You'll lose your.......... um?............panel van and Firés.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Aug 20, 2016 - 09:30am PT
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Not to worry.
California allows a $26,296 wild card exemption from bankruptcy seizure, so basically all his worldy possessions...
And even if he doesn't claim that, he can protect a vehicle up to $5,100 and tools of the trade up to $7,625.
That would seem to cover the panel truck and the 7 mil rope and 6 biners.. The Firés aren't collector antique items, are they?
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darkhydro
Sport climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2016 - 04:27pm PT
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I ended up sport climbing Cookie Sheet with my friends and practiced setting trad pieces for funnies. Half Dome will have to wait for next trip!
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Aug 21, 2016 - 04:35pm PT
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How utterly disappointing, no rescue, no epic, no future court appearance. Boring. But as long as you had fun, to hell with the peanut gallery
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Aug 21, 2016 - 08:47pm PT
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Hey, at least you got out there. How many pitches dd you do? As far as how high you got off the ground.
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darkhydro
Sport climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2016 - 09:46pm PT
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2 or 3 pitches each. All pretty easy stuff. It was pretty damn hot, so I can see why Snake Dike might be less popular this time of year XD
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Aug 21, 2016 - 10:22pm PT
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Tops out 5,000 feet higher than you were, and breezier.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Aug 22, 2016 - 01:59pm PT
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What's a good route progression to test how a person handles runouts?
How do you go from sport clipping every 6-10 feet then on to 30-50 foot runouts? Maybe that is one of the reasons I like crack climbs more... you control where you place the pro. But still can't always avoid a runout.
I can't think of what routes would be in a progression for a conservative person to do before Snake Dike to test their comfort with exposure.
nutcracker? I recall some slightly exposed bit of face climbing toward the top... And then the mantel move that one should not screw up.
Maybe the direct start to Nutcracker, but that is more like 5.9 with ground fall potential... maybe not properly within the progression.
Maybe Via Aqua? It has a long approach but easier than Snake Dike approach. It has a few DFU sections on the 3rd class approach, but no crazy runouts on the 5.7 climb which is more demanding than climbing on Snake Dike. But it does require a trad rack for all placements and belays. And it ends in a glorious spot, making for an overall great adventure.
EB Middle Cathedral? It's a harder climb by far in terms of technical climbing, but short approach and good trad pro... except I remember one section is pretty run out if you go right (the .10a way) instead of the .10c bolt ladder. Somewhere in the 5.6 to 5.8 range on 20-30 feet face climbing with no pro up to the belay? My memory may be faulty.
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