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darkhydro
Sport climber
CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 17, 2016 - 04:50pm PT
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Hey guys, I'm making my first ever pilgrimage from Orange County up to Yosemite Valley this weekend, and I was really hoping I could top out on Half Dome on my first trip! It looks like Snake Dike is the way to go for someone of my skill level (sport lead 10a, follow 10d, no trad experience). If anyone with a trad rack (EDIT: I have a trad rack now, so you don't have to use your own gear. although I only have quickdraws, no alpine draws) wants to lead this climb with me, hit me up! I'm super laid back, love nature, and ready to make new friends :) I realize picking up a follower isn't the most attractive prospect, so I'm very willing to buy you lunch and a drink or two if you help me make this trip epic!
Not sure how people contact each other on this site, so here's my number:
949-547-8157
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Aug 17, 2016 - 04:58pm PT
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gunna
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Aug 17, 2016 - 05:15pm PT
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Check https://www.mountainproject.com/v/northern-california-partners/105083665 or the Camp 4 Kiosk bulletin board.
Snake Dike is technically easy but it's still an all day hike and an 8 pitch climb with route finding challenges. It would be easy to follow a leader who's done it before but being a new trad climber who probably doesn't have multi-pitch belay changeovers done quickly and efficiently you are not an appealing partner.
If someone who's done it is willing to guide you up it (beg and provide the beer and dinner) great. Otherwise a 3-5 pitch climb with much less approach is a good goal on the way to being ready for SD.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Aug 17, 2016 - 05:17pm PT
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Seriously man, snake dike is not a place for someone inexperienced with trad climbing. It is run out. If you can find someone to rope gun, it should be okay, but there is no comparison to a gym and snake dike. What is your experience on real rock?
edit: what theFet said.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Aug 17, 2016 - 05:36pm PT
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I could conquer Half Dome
You don't conquer a mountain, you climb it. Half Dome will still be there long after you are gone.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Aug 17, 2016 - 06:45pm PT
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Wait....
What's trad about Snake dike?
I Remember taking about 6 pieces of gear which were almost never used and some draws, and mostly clipping a bolt every 6o feet or so on 5-easy. It's just moving over rock.
Remember the first ascent employed 6 bolts and TWO pitons before sticky rubber for the 800' or so of fifth class.
Now every belay is bolted. Seriously... If you are a legitimate 5.10 climber you won't even notice the climbing. It will be 3-4 hours of easy stuff. The rest of your day will be a long hike to the base, the 1000 feet of walking up a slab after the fifth class, the terror of the cables amongst the tourons, and the 9 mile hike out on well established trail before the bars close.
Go for it! If for some reason you aren't comfortable, just rap the route (2 rope) and walk out. It's less hiking to the bar.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Aug 17, 2016 - 07:00pm PT
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Lorenzo-
Funny!
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Aug 17, 2016 - 07:04pm PT
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Still trying to talk Bridwell to go back up there with me. That would be a cool day, I tell him, he's got the rope, I got the rack(red camelot, few beaners for belays and 3 double runners) he looks at me like I'm a freak show, but I really think he's considering it.
Peace
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Aug 17, 2016 - 07:31pm PT
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Haha.
I made the same offer to Beck a while back. With his new body parts, he could be the first Cyborg ascent.
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 17, 2016 - 08:20pm PT
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Snake Dike is a sport climb.
I've seen people hang dog on it ......
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Aug 17, 2016 - 08:22pm PT
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Hmm, I suspect the Fet and johntp both have eyes on Snake Dike that day and are trying to scare off people who want to share it. ;)
The only route finding challenges I remember were the brushy slabs leading to it, the hardest climbing was about 3 steps of 5.7 friction, and we only placed about 5 pieces of pro the entire 800 feet. I do agree that it's a long day, but considering a softman like me did it first try doorstep-to-doorstep in ~21 hours from the Bay Area you shouldn't have too hard a time doing it out of The Valley.
It's super cruiser climbing on one of the most iconic rocks on Earth. What's not to love? Hope you find a partner for it.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Aug 17, 2016 - 09:04pm PT
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Hmm, I suspect the Fet and johntp both have eyes on Snake Dike that day and are trying to scare off people who want to share it. ;)
Dammit; I've been caught. But I'm still bringing my ice axe and crampons.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Aug 17, 2016 - 09:16pm PT
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Ledge. Take a ledge for godsakes
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Aug 17, 2016 - 10:24pm PT
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Hmm, I suspect the Fet and johntp both have eyes on Snake Dike that day and are trying to scare off people who want to share it.
Actually, it looks like the Fet is angling for beer and dinner...
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darkhydro
Sport climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2016 - 09:11am PT
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thanks for the responses guys. From what I saw in videos and forums on this site and mountainproject, the climb looks pretty easy especially from a follower's point of view, and as a couple of you have said not particularly trad-dy. I've also posted on mountainproject and have gotten some responses - pretty much all nice people just saying "good luck, I'm not up there that weekend". I'll be posting on the bulletin board at Camp4 as well and crossing my fingers. If anyone is interested, I do have a trad rack now so you wouldn't have to use your own gear.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Aug 18, 2016 - 11:19am PT
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The climbing will be technically easy for you, but if you mainly have experience with sport climbs, be wary of committing to lead the first few pitches without knowing how you might react to big run-outs. Technical strength/agility is a separate dimension from how you feel when looking down at a big section of rope swinging in the wind with the point of attachment seemingly infinitely below you. Some people love that feeling, others get gripped or panicky and can't keep it together, and probably everything in between or a mix of both.
I hope you find a partner- seems like you'd make a fine partner for anyone who is already comfortable leading the first few pitches. And if you already have experience to know that your head stays on tight when you are in DFU territory, you can lead it too. No trad gear to place except the first pitch or so.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Aug 19, 2016 - 12:49am PT
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50 feet between bolts is part of what makes it a trad climb, not a sport route.
I understand the desire to get on something as classic as snake dike, one of the best moderate climbs on the planet. I've been in your shoes before, wanting to push my limits and get on a classic routes. I did Royal Arches my second day leading and took 15 hours car to car, lol.
Like I said if someone is willing to guide you up it, good for you. That's basically what you are asking for. YMS charges a few hundred bucks or so for a climb like this.
To me it's the lack of any trad experience that's concerning. Snake Dike is a long day for a lot of parties. On top of all the hiking and climbing there's 8 belays changeovers. An experienced trad team can do a belay change over in 5 minutes. Inexperienced teams can take 30 minutes (not being ready to climb when your partner is, not knowing how to manage a rope at a hanging belay so you create a rats nest, etc). 25 minutes x 8 = an additional 3 hours 20 minutes on the route.
And what if the leader falls and gets hurt? Do you have any idea of how to complete a self-rescue? Likely there will be other parties who can help out. But you never know. Speaking of other parties, if you are taking 3 extra hours at belays everyone below you is waiting.
If I knew you I'd be stoked to take you up it, but I'd say let's practice some hanging belay changeovers in the gym. And I'd still want to do a 3-5 pitch climb first to work out the systems and get efficient before jumping on an 8 pitch climb in the middle of a huge hike.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Aug 19, 2016 - 01:03am PT
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Seriously, it seems you have the technical skills and if you have a rope gun should not be a big deal. Again, I ask what your experience is on real rock?
A lot of SD is face/slab climbing, not gym holds. Go for it and have fun, but don't risk your partners life due to inexperience.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Aug 19, 2016 - 05:49am PT
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What Bridwell, MooosDrool, T Hocking, and john tp (the first time) said!
"The Dike? I don't think you can handle the Dike."
That said, good luck.
If I could still handle elevations like 8,800' and was willing to undergo the most boring walk-up I've ever done, I'd consider doing it for a sixer of talls.
It's a crappy, overrated view from the summit, too.
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darkhydro
Sport climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2016 - 08:09am PT
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You make some valid points. I realize I'm not the most attractive partner, but I am a fast learner and a fast climber. I'm mostly looking for people who wanted to climb snake dike like me and didn't already have partners (I also realize that doesn't happen often, especially with leaders). I'm not trying to "bum a ride". If I can't find anyone I'll climb other routes, but snake dike would be pretty epic for the first time around.
I'm terms of experience climbing I've lead many 5.9-5.10a sports climbs and cleaned as many. I've set a trad top rope anchor a couple times but that's where my trad experience ends. In the gym I top out at 12a.
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