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darkhydro
Sport climber
CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Aug 17, 2016 - 04:50pm PT
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Hey guys, I'm making my first ever pilgrimage from Orange County up to Yosemite Valley this weekend, and I was really hoping I could top out on Half Dome on my first trip! It looks like Snake Dike is the way to go for someone of my skill level (sport lead 10a, follow 10d, no trad experience). If anyone with a trad rack (EDIT: I have a trad rack now, so you don't have to use your own gear. although I only have quickdraws, no alpine draws) wants to lead this climb with me, hit me up! I'm super laid back, love nature, and ready to make new friends :) I realize picking up a follower isn't the most attractive prospect, so I'm very willing to buy you lunch and a drink or two if you help me make this trip epic!
Not sure how people contact each other on this site, so here's my number:
949-547-8157
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Aug 17, 2016 - 04:58pm PT
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gunna
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Aug 17, 2016 - 05:15pm PT
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Check https://www.mountainproject.com/v/northern-california-partners/105083665 or the Camp 4 Kiosk bulletin board.
Snake Dike is technically easy but it's still an all day hike and an 8 pitch climb with route finding challenges. It would be easy to follow a leader who's done it before but being a new trad climber who probably doesn't have multi-pitch belay changeovers done quickly and efficiently you are not an appealing partner.
If someone who's done it is willing to guide you up it (beg and provide the beer and dinner) great. Otherwise a 3-5 pitch climb with much less approach is a good goal on the way to being ready for SD.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Aug 17, 2016 - 05:17pm PT
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Seriously man, snake dike is not a place for someone inexperienced with trad climbing. It is run out. If you can find someone to rope gun, it should be okay, but there is no comparison to a gym and snake dike. What is your experience on real rock?
edit: what theFet said.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Aug 17, 2016 - 05:36pm PT
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I could conquer Half Dome
You don't conquer a mountain, you climb it. Half Dome will still be there long after you are gone.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Aug 17, 2016 - 06:45pm PT
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Wait....
What's trad about Snake dike?
I Remember taking about 6 pieces of gear which were almost never used and some draws, and mostly clipping a bolt every 6o feet or so on 5-easy. It's just moving over rock.
Remember the first ascent employed 6 bolts and TWO pitons before sticky rubber for the 800' or so of fifth class.
Now every belay is bolted. Seriously... If you are a legitimate 5.10 climber you won't even notice the climbing. It will be 3-4 hours of easy stuff. The rest of your day will be a long hike to the base, the 1000 feet of walking up a slab after the fifth class, the terror of the cables amongst the tourons, and the 9 mile hike out on well established trail before the bars close.
Go for it! If for some reason you aren't comfortable, just rap the route (2 rope) and walk out. It's less hiking to the bar.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Aug 17, 2016 - 07:00pm PT
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Lorenzo-
Funny!
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Aug 17, 2016 - 07:04pm PT
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Still trying to talk Bridwell to go back up there with me. That would be a cool day, I tell him, he's got the rope, I got the rack(red camelot, few beaners for belays and 3 double runners) he looks at me like I'm a freak show, but I really think he's considering it.
Peace
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Aug 17, 2016 - 07:31pm PT
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Haha.
I made the same offer to Beck a while back. With his new body parts, he could be the first Cyborg ascent.
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 17, 2016 - 08:20pm PT
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Snake Dike is a sport climb.
I've seen people hang dog on it ......
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Aug 17, 2016 - 08:22pm PT
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Hmm, I suspect the Fet and johntp both have eyes on Snake Dike that day and are trying to scare off people who want to share it. ;)
The only route finding challenges I remember were the brushy slabs leading to it, the hardest climbing was about 3 steps of 5.7 friction, and we only placed about 5 pieces of pro the entire 800 feet. I do agree that it's a long day, but considering a softman like me did it first try doorstep-to-doorstep in ~21 hours from the Bay Area you shouldn't have too hard a time doing it out of The Valley.
It's super cruiser climbing on one of the most iconic rocks on Earth. What's not to love? Hope you find a partner for it.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Aug 17, 2016 - 09:04pm PT
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Hmm, I suspect the Fet and johntp both have eyes on Snake Dike that day and are trying to scare off people who want to share it. ;)
Dammit; I've been caught. But I'm still bringing my ice axe and crampons.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Aug 17, 2016 - 09:16pm PT
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Ledge. Take a ledge for godsakes
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Aug 17, 2016 - 10:24pm PT
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Hmm, I suspect the Fet and johntp both have eyes on Snake Dike that day and are trying to scare off people who want to share it.
Actually, it looks like the Fet is angling for beer and dinner...
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darkhydro
Sport climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 18, 2016 - 09:11am PT
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thanks for the responses guys. From what I saw in videos and forums on this site and mountainproject, the climb looks pretty easy especially from a follower's point of view, and as a couple of you have said not particularly trad-dy. I've also posted on mountainproject and have gotten some responses - pretty much all nice people just saying "good luck, I'm not up there that weekend". I'll be posting on the bulletin board at Camp4 as well and crossing my fingers. If anyone is interested, I do have a trad rack now so you wouldn't have to use your own gear.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Aug 18, 2016 - 11:19am PT
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The climbing will be technically easy for you, but if you mainly have experience with sport climbs, be wary of committing to lead the first few pitches without knowing how you might react to big run-outs. Technical strength/agility is a separate dimension from how you feel when looking down at a big section of rope swinging in the wind with the point of attachment seemingly infinitely below you. Some people love that feeling, others get gripped or panicky and can't keep it together, and probably everything in between or a mix of both.
I hope you find a partner- seems like you'd make a fine partner for anyone who is already comfortable leading the first few pitches. And if you already have experience to know that your head stays on tight when you are in DFU territory, you can lead it too. No trad gear to place except the first pitch or so.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Aug 19, 2016 - 12:49am PT
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50 feet between bolts is part of what makes it a trad climb, not a sport route.
I understand the desire to get on something as classic as snake dike, one of the best moderate climbs on the planet. I've been in your shoes before, wanting to push my limits and get on a classic routes. I did Royal Arches my second day leading and took 15 hours car to car, lol.
Like I said if someone is willing to guide you up it, good for you. That's basically what you are asking for. YMS charges a few hundred bucks or so for a climb like this.
To me it's the lack of any trad experience that's concerning. Snake Dike is a long day for a lot of parties. On top of all the hiking and climbing there's 8 belays changeovers. An experienced trad team can do a belay change over in 5 minutes. Inexperienced teams can take 30 minutes (not being ready to climb when your partner is, not knowing how to manage a rope at a hanging belay so you create a rats nest, etc). 25 minutes x 8 = an additional 3 hours 20 minutes on the route.
And what if the leader falls and gets hurt? Do you have any idea of how to complete a self-rescue? Likely there will be other parties who can help out. But you never know. Speaking of other parties, if you are taking 3 extra hours at belays everyone below you is waiting.
If I knew you I'd be stoked to take you up it, but I'd say let's practice some hanging belay changeovers in the gym. And I'd still want to do a 3-5 pitch climb first to work out the systems and get efficient before jumping on an 8 pitch climb in the middle of a huge hike.
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Aug 19, 2016 - 01:03am PT
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Seriously, it seems you have the technical skills and if you have a rope gun should not be a big deal. Again, I ask what your experience is on real rock?
A lot of SD is face/slab climbing, not gym holds. Go for it and have fun, but don't risk your partners life due to inexperience.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Aug 19, 2016 - 05:49am PT
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What Bridwell, MooosDrool, T Hocking, and john tp (the first time) said!
"The Dike? I don't think you can handle the Dike."
That said, good luck.
If I could still handle elevations like 8,800' and was willing to undergo the most boring walk-up I've ever done, I'd consider doing it for a sixer of talls.
It's a crappy, overrated view from the summit, too.
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darkhydro
Sport climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 19, 2016 - 08:09am PT
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You make some valid points. I realize I'm not the most attractive partner, but I am a fast learner and a fast climber. I'm mostly looking for people who wanted to climb snake dike like me and didn't already have partners (I also realize that doesn't happen often, especially with leaders). I'm not trying to "bum a ride". If I can't find anyone I'll climb other routes, but snake dike would be pretty epic for the first time around.
I'm terms of experience climbing I've lead many 5.9-5.10a sports climbs and cleaned as many. I've set a trad top rope anchor a couple times but that's where my trad experience ends. In the gym I top out at 12a.
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High Fructose Corn Spirit
Gym climber
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Aug 19, 2016 - 08:21am PT
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darkhydro, your posts make perfect sense. Don't let a few here sour your interest or experience. Good luck and have fun.
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WBraun
climber
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Aug 19, 2016 - 08:29am PT
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Geezus god almighty is this forum so full of sh!t.
The guy is looking for a partner to climb a classic, that's all.
Nobody steps up to the plate instead all this stupid bullsh!t constant lecturing.
I've taken complete n00bs up there with just a 7mm rope and 6 caribiners.
I didn't even use a harness.
Such a simple thing.
Stupoor-topo blah blah blah blah
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Aug 19, 2016 - 09:35am PT
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For the record I didn't say anything about telling him not to do it and I have jumped into the deep end many times myself. I'm just giving him information that I would have appreciated at that stage of my climbing career.
It's probably more fun to climb something like Munginella first, get your multi-pitch climbing dialed in, then you can do snake dike without taking a long time on it. But it's probably more memorable to jump on a super classic for your first time and have an epic experience. Take your pic.
I would also add the advice, buy and read Hans Florine's Speed Climbing book. It's not about rushing, it's about efficiency. I have a lot more fun on climbs where I'm not concerned about making it to the top before it gets dark, or making it to the bar before it closes. And I'm not waiting at a belay for my partner to get ready.
I guess that's one of my pet peeves. I get irritated when I'm leading call off belay, setup a belay for the follower, call on belay, and have to wait 10 minutes for the follower to start climbing. On an 8 pitch climb that's 80 minutes of waiting.
For a guy who has identified himself as a first time trad climber I like to give a little heads up on what to watch out for.
One time when I did snake dike I let a partner make the call as to when to get on the climb and we ended up starting late behind a really slow party from the east coast. They were technically strong climbers but it was their first time out west. We waited until they were finishing the third pitch before even leaving the ground. The people lined up behind us were getting pissed asking to pass us, and I said no, we'll catch up to these guys in no time. We climbed 4 pitches in the time it took them to climb one, and ended up waiting at the next couple belays at least a half hour each until we could pass them. They were so freaked out by the exposure that they continued to belay on the 3rd/4th class slabs after pitch 8. I'm not saying that you would be like that, but just giving an example of where some guys probably didn't really know what to expect when jumping on a long trad climb.
With all that said, sorry yes I'm wordy, it IS a great climb. To one of the most magical spots on the planet. So you should go for it. Just either climb another multipitch first, or practice the process in the gym/local crag.
And WBraun you also said it would be no big deal for gugglimucci to rap the Nose. Look how that turned out.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Aug 19, 2016 - 09:41am PT
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I've taken complete n00bs up there with just a 7mm rope and 6 caribiners.
I didn't even use a harness.
Duck spray!!!!!!!!!!!
the most boring walk-up I've ever done
In fairness to my brother,
Mouse spray!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
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Aug 19, 2016 - 09:51am PT
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oh yeah?
I've taken noobs up there with 50 feet of parachute cord, two biners and a sixer. Left the noobs at the base and took the sixer, soloed, in the moonlight with one chaco and one left five finger on my right foot. Left foot was bare.
you'll be fine.
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looks easy from here
climber
Ben Lomond, CA
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Aug 19, 2016 - 10:11am PT
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I'm a little baffled by some of these responses. It's seriously maybe 30 feet of 5.6-5.7 and 770 feet of 5.3. Runouts are long but just enough to keep you thoughtful while scrambling up a dinosaur spine. And all the belays are bolted, and none of them are hanging; clipping in and switching over is not a big hassle. I wish my car wasn't broken so I could run up and do it with you. I'd gladly eat the 4 hour drive to do it again.
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the Fet
climber
Tu-Tok-A-Nu-La
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Aug 19, 2016 - 12:29pm PT
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I think it would be irresponsible to say "yeah an 8 pitch climb, with 100 foot runouts, and 6-8 hours of hiking, sounds like a great idea for your FIRST trad climb", at least not with adding some caveats.
Again if someone's willing to lead the way it would be very fun and doable.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Aug 19, 2016 - 02:45pm PT
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Aug 19, 2016 - 08:29am PT
Geezus god almighty is this forum so full of sh!t.
The guy is looking for a partner to climb a classic, that's all.
Nobody steps up to the plate instead all this stupid bullsh!t constant lecturing.
I've taken complete n00bs up there with just a 7mm rope and 6 caribiners.
I didn't even use a harness.
Such a simple thing.
Stupoor-topo blah blah blah blah
Glad you volunteered, Werner. I know you two will have a great time.
Post up some pics.
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Flip Flop
climber
Earth Planet, Universe
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Aug 19, 2016 - 09:54pm PT
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6 carabiners and a 7mm? Werner is opening himself up for a serious lawsuit. You'll lose your.......... um?............panel van and Firés.
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Aug 20, 2016 - 09:30am PT
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Not to worry.
California allows a $26,296 wild card exemption from bankruptcy seizure, so basically all his worldy possessions...
And even if he doesn't claim that, he can protect a vehicle up to $5,100 and tools of the trade up to $7,625.
That would seem to cover the panel truck and the 7 mil rope and 6 biners.. The Firés aren't collector antique items, are they?
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darkhydro
Sport climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2016 - 04:27pm PT
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I ended up sport climbing Cookie Sheet with my friends and practiced setting trad pieces for funnies. Half Dome will have to wait for next trip!
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Jon Beck
Trad climber
Oceanside
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Aug 21, 2016 - 04:35pm PT
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How utterly disappointing, no rescue, no epic, no future court appearance. Boring. But as long as you had fun, to hell with the peanut gallery
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johntp
Trad climber
socal
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Aug 21, 2016 - 08:47pm PT
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Hey, at least you got out there. How many pitches dd you do? As far as how high you got off the ground.
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darkhydro
Sport climber
CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 21, 2016 - 09:46pm PT
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2 or 3 pitches each. All pretty easy stuff. It was pretty damn hot, so I can see why Snake Dike might be less popular this time of year XD
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Lorenzo
Trad climber
Portland Oregon
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Aug 21, 2016 - 10:22pm PT
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Tops out 5,000 feet higher than you were, and breezier.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Aug 22, 2016 - 01:59pm PT
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What's a good route progression to test how a person handles runouts?
How do you go from sport clipping every 6-10 feet then on to 30-50 foot runouts? Maybe that is one of the reasons I like crack climbs more... you control where you place the pro. But still can't always avoid a runout.
I can't think of what routes would be in a progression for a conservative person to do before Snake Dike to test their comfort with exposure.
nutcracker? I recall some slightly exposed bit of face climbing toward the top... And then the mantel move that one should not screw up.
Maybe the direct start to Nutcracker, but that is more like 5.9 with ground fall potential... maybe not properly within the progression.
Maybe Via Aqua? It has a long approach but easier than Snake Dike approach. It has a few DFU sections on the 3rd class approach, but no crazy runouts on the 5.7 climb which is more demanding than climbing on Snake Dike. But it does require a trad rack for all placements and belays. And it ends in a glorious spot, making for an overall great adventure.
EB Middle Cathedral? It's a harder climb by far in terms of technical climbing, but short approach and good trad pro... except I remember one section is pretty run out if you go right (the .10a way) instead of the .10c bolt ladder. Somewhere in the 5.6 to 5.8 range on 20-30 feet face climbing with no pro up to the belay? My memory may be faulty.
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