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scooter
climber
fist clamp
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I will second the vote for Great Pumpkin and The Direct Route on Washingtons Column/
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ddriver
Trad climber
SLC, UT
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Forbidden Corner Yamnuska
Oh wait it is now called 5.9
I think when I did it the grade was 5.8 or 5.8+ and I would be hard pressed to come up with one more real than that at the grade.
We were bike touring from Jasper to Banff and ran across a climber (from Alabama?) in one of the huts. He'd come up to do something real like Howse Pk and wound up climbing Forbidden Corner. His statement was its really good "but I couldn't recommend it." Of course when we finished our ride we went to do it. There's a long poorly protected traverse on about pitch 7 that I lead into an exposed belay overlooking the forbidden corner. Next pitch arcs then downclimbs similar to Hueco's Indecent Exposure and then traverses over to a little pedestal where you contemplate the unprotected slab above. My partner whiffed on the move and took the pendulum back into the corner. He was quite shaken and in no shape to go back up there so I went over with the task of getting us off the thing. It was really only a couple heady moves but quite exciting with the prospect of swinging back into that corner.
For 5.7 I nominate Sahara Terror.
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
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Breakfast of Champions at Joshua Tree. Crux is the first move. If you can do that you won't mind the 85 ft runnout on the last pitch including a 30 ft JT-Ball-Bearings slab finish.
(or any other 5.8 with FA Herb Laeger after it)
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Whatchamacallit Love Route, Hallet Peak, RMNP.
Petit Grepon, RMNP.
Man, there's tons of 'em.
Basically any old school 5.8.
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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I think there is a bit of mistranslation here. I interpret Jim's original post to mean climbs that have 5.8 moves but the situation, routefinding, seriousness, etc add up to an experience greater than most 5.8s.
Some other posts seem to refer to undergraded climbs, like Dogleg at J Tree which always seemed harder than 5.8.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2016 - 05:29pm PT
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And...the reading comprehension award goes to AP!
Not really interested in the most undergraded 5.8 out there....if it's that undergraded then it is misgraded and should be regraded. I am thinking more about the overall experience....length, routefinding, rock quality, seriouness, caloric expenditure etc.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jim's qualifying attributes are why the Brits came up with the E bidness,
not that there's a HVS that merits an E1, at least that I know of.
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Redwood City
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'Dogleg' has that weird step-across move at the start , and then it's steep....
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Byran
climber
Half Dome Village
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What? Criteria? I was just going to blurt out whatever 5.8 climbs pop into my head...
Elevator Shaft...
Little John, Left...
S Face of Charlotte Dome...
The Groove...
What's that last one? I don't know, but I'm sure The Groove (5.8) must exist somewhere, and I bet it's pretty awkward and polished judging by it's name.
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dikhed
climber
State of fugue and disbelief
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What? Criteria? I was just going to blurt out whatever 5.8 climbs pop into my head...
I LOVE LAMP!
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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donini, there's a sucker 5.8 at Taylors Falls that doesn't look like anything at all and is notorious for spitting out visiting 5.11 leaders who size it up as a giveaway
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divad
Trad climber
wmass
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Wiessner Crack on Noonmark Mt. Adirondacks.
or perhaps I wasn't having my best day..
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justthemaid
climber
Jim Henson's Basement
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Now that I've been reminded... I'll throw in a third vote for Overwatch at J Tree. Love that climb. Beats Double Cross for sure for my old school "fun" 5.8 vote.
Dr Rubos in Sedona sort of sticks in my mind as the "hardest" 5.8 I ever groveled up....I were I to make a distinction.
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Chippychopperone
Social climber
SLC, UT
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Satans Corner in Little Cottonwood Canyon. Outside corner in Big Cottonwood Canyon.
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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People on here obviously love 5.8. I think all the routes I mentioned are honest to goodness 5.8. Asthetic, good rock, sustained, long and hard for their respective areas.
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MikeL
Social climber
Southern Arizona
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Braille Book.
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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The valley obscurity Pharoah's Beard makes you work for it!
Anybody done Green Savior at GM with all the variations? Man, that is a 5.& you got to work for...
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