When 5.8 is real climbing....post your candidate!

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WyoRockMan

climber

Grizzlyville, WY

Jun 2, 2016 - 12:11pm PT

(long) NE Buttress of Pingora in the Winds is a quality long route at the grade.

(multi) Patent Pending and Bon Homme Variation at Deto are solid shorter 5.8s.

(single) Needles Eye at Custer State Park is about as "real" as it gets for the grade.

mouse from merced

Trad climber

The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.

Jun 2, 2016 - 12:29pm PT

The Swallow on Tqhquitz Rock, @ 800' high, which has variations of a spicy nature that RR and Chuck Wilts likely avoided in '62.

And a super-charged party can always choose to follow The Gulp, at a stiffer standard.

fear

Ice climber

hartford, ct

Jun 2, 2016 - 12:34pm PT

Modern Times at the Gunks. God damn...

Indeed. Also known as the "Divorce route" when burly boyfriends/husbands take their unsuspecting SO's on this "juggy 5.8" and find they don't know how to use prussics...

JohnnyG

climber

Jun 2, 2016 - 12:53pm PT

Not sure what you mean by "real" but it looks like a lot of folks are interpreting this as hard for the grade (or sandbagged)

I think you mean that you need to be an experienced/solid/"real" climber to do it with style and safety.

That 5.8 dihedral pitch partway up the casual route comes to mind. Every single move feels like 5.8. Full value.

Mungeclimber

Trad climber

Nothing creative to say

Jun 2, 2016 - 12:58pm PT

Any 5.8 at Devils Tower. Where each move can be 5.8, and the rating doesn't go up since 'no single move' is harder than 5.8.

Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber

San Francisco

Jun 2, 2016 - 01:01pm PT

when it is a blank slab and you are already 120 feet run out with no drill.

steveA

Trad climber

Wolfeboro, NH

Jun 2, 2016 - 01:07pm PT

I'll have to 2nd the classic route on Pingora, as a fine 5.8. At least it is in a great setting!
For shorter routes which are pretty stout in my area; I'll nominate Pine Tree Eliminate, at Cathedral Ledge, in NH.

Gunkie

Trad climber

Valles Marineris

Jun 2, 2016 - 01:11pm PT

I always thought the 2nd pitch of Freerider/Salathe' Wall was pretty rough for 5.8, particularly if your biggest piece is an old style rigid stem 2.5 Friend and you're dragging the rest of the rack and two extra ropes because 5.8 is 'easy' and you want to fix to the top of the 4th pitch before dark. That last 12 feet of that pitch was pretty special, as I recall.

mtnyoung

Trad climber

Twain Harte, California

Jun 2, 2016 - 01:17pm PT

Here are the ingredients for at least one "real" 5.8:

First ascent by Glen Denny and Gary Colliver, mid 1970s;

At Pinnacles National Park (and so, on Pinnacles rock!);

Two pitches with no anchor of any type (existing or possible) at the top of the first pitch;

Both pitches include 5.8 climbing;

Pro on the 150 foot plus first pitch is a tied off twig and a couple cams that wouldn't hold body weight;

Pro on the 150 foot second pitch is one bolt 60 feet up.

Seldom Seen Pinnacle - West Face 5.8 X

Glen and Gary were so incredibly bold at Pinnacles during that time. And yeah, about how people in the modern world free solo 5.8 very frequently? I agree, it happens all the time. But how often on a first ascent of rock that is known for its "mud-like" qualities.

David Harden and I did the second (and likely last ever) ascent of this route about eight years ago. For what it was worth, we used a rope. I'll be very happy to never repeat this one.

Cassius

climber

Berkeley, CA

Jun 2, 2016 - 01:56pm PT

North Face of Dog Dome. An obscure-ish little gem in the Meadows. A little offwidth, a little chimney, a little lake. What's not to like?

eeyonkee

Trad climber

Golden, CO

Jun 2, 2016 - 02:02pm PT

I totally got lost on the Tourist Route with Clean Dan Grandusky back in the early 1990's and had to bail from about halfway up. I don't think that we were ever on route and never did figure out where it went.

Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber

Out Of Bed

Jun 2, 2016 - 02:08pm PT

The black line MODERN TIMES DIRECT .

There is an independent start to the 1st pitch,(5.7+ R) that is much better than any of the other starts,
then it is best to share the Modern Times 1st pitch.. This can be seen at the extreme bottom left of the picture ( a contrived run-out line has been done thru the grass)

MILLBROOK!!
There is a Pine tree that is just left of center that marks the rap in point & a climb called 5.7 Westward Ha!

http://www.thewhitecliff.com/overview.html

Tomko

Trad climber

San Jose

Jun 2, 2016 - 02:21pm PT

Trial by Fire in Yosemite. Damn thing took me an hour to lead, I stuck a piece of gear, and fell asleep at the base as soon as I returned to Terra firma.

mike m

Trad climber

black hills

Jun 2, 2016 - 02:22pm PT

Sex never Did this to my Hands, Gods own Drunk in the Needles, Bonne Homme and El Cracko Diablo at Devils Tower, the full Ruper and Long John Wall at Eldo, Steeple Peak in the Winds all seem to fit the bill.

drljefe

climber

El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson

Jun 2, 2016 - 02:26pm PT

Magnolia is too clean and straightforward, just way under graded.
NE Pingora too- too clean.
No sketch factor at all.

For sketch you have to go to Clodorado.
How bout Kit Carson or Crestone Needle.

ecdh

climber

the east

Jun 2, 2016 - 03:02pm PT

Anytime its done in big boots with a pack over sh#t gear.

Ksolem

Trad climber

Monrovia, California

Jun 2, 2016 - 03:17pm PT

Igor Unchained, at The Needles, was rated 5.8 on the first ascent. That would qualify.

Jaybro

Social climber

Wolf City, Wyoming

Jun 2, 2016 - 03:39pm PT

Oh what am I thinking? Washington column direct! It took. Daphne and I longer than my tow ascents of Astroman combined ( maybe) now ThThat'sat's full value!!