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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jun 2, 2016 - 11:05am PT
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Mine is one that I did yesterday, the Tourist Route in the Black Canyon. Long (starts at the bottom), continuous at the grade, care needed in route finding, loose rock, and a bit of runout climbing to add spice to the sauce. No...it's not one of those routes you repeat every season.
Numbers don't always tell the whole story.
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i'm gumby dammit
Sport climber
da ow
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Nutcracker. What could be more real than waiting at a belay for three hours with no beer?
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Mechanic's Route, 5.8, 1937, manilla rope, pre climbing shoes and harness. Respect!
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Magnolia?
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AP
Trad climber
Calgary
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Forbidden Corner Yamnuska
Oh wait it is now called 5.9
Any Cdn Rockies alpine route rated 5.8 is always full of excitement.
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jogill
climber
Colorado
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Back in the late 1950s I really enjoyed climbing the Direct Jensen Ridge on Symmetry Spire (Tetons). I think I did it three or four times, doing the "crux" several different ways. It made for a great day's adventure! Back then it was rated 5.9, but that's close enough.
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Word has it that Herb Laeger originally rated Igor Unchained at the Needles at 5.8, though it's considered stout for 5.9 nowadays.
+ 1 the Mechanics Route. Dick Jones was the man.
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FTOR
Sport climber
CA
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even bachar seemed impressed when i told him i soloed great pumpkin. fairview.
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Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
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John - I loved the Jensen Direct and enjoyed even more an afternoon up there climbing the Gill Route on Baxter's Lost Pinnacle. Maybe that was also 5.9.
I'm with Walleye on Braille Book
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Agree about Mechanic's Route. Steep and intimidating now, it's hard to imagine doing the first ascent in tennis shoes with soft iron and manila ropes. The first free ascent of Higher Spire, done during WWII, was a stout effort rated 5.8, too, but the climbers already knew the route, and rockfall has made the route harder now. Peter Pan was originally rated 5.8, and the third pitch was certainly real climbing (and a real sandbag at 5.8) to me. I have yet to climb Arrowhead Arete, but doing it free on the first ascent strikes me as real climbing, too.
John
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Dapper Dan
Trad climber
Redwood City
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x2 for Clyde Minaret , that's one tough 5.8 ....
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rgold
Trad climber
Poughkeepsie, NY
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At this point in my career, all 5.8's are real climbing.
There are so many stellar 5.8's in the Gunks---with very real climbing---I wouldn't know where to begin. But of course none of these are of any length.
About forty years ago I did the Arrowhead Arete in Yosemite; I remember it as a pretty good 5.8.
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snakefoot
climber
Nor Cal
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selaginella at the open books, yose
and although 5.9, warpy moople in the sandias
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HighDesertDJ
Trad climber
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Modern Times at the Gunks. God damn...
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 2, 2016 - 11:48am PT
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I agree with rgold....when it comes to shorter routes the Gunks has more "real climbing" 5.8's that anywhere else in the US.
But I'm not necessairly talking about the grade, keep in mind the total experience .
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Yeah I was going to say magnolia TP @Granite mtn, as well.....
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Jefe wrote:
Magnolia?
I was thinking that when I saw the thread title.
Great minds... :-)
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overwatch
climber
Arizona
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As far as shorties go I think the 5.8 next to double-cross in Joshua Tree might qualify. I can't remember the name right now, always thought it was better than double cross
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Mark Force
Trad climber
Ashland, Oregon
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Magnolia is the busines. Beware Granite Mountain 5.8+!
Doing Green Savior on GM with the variations - Direct Start and a Crisco Way - is rated 5.8 but you'll feel like you earned it when you get to the top!
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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I was gonna put West Buttress Musembeah, which I swear was rated 5.8 when I did it Mike P. but now I see it's rated 10-.
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