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ec
climber
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Nov 13, 2006 - 12:10am PT
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I remember Eric and Nick Badurka (sp) showed up for there first visit down there and we all had great time.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Nov 13, 2006 - 12:14am PT
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Yes, Nick has been posting up a bit and we saw him at a JT reunion last winter.
Man, I bet you have some cool vintage photos eh?
We would love to see some...
Thanks for the video!
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atchafalaya
Trad climber
California
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Nov 13, 2006 - 12:20am PT
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ec, great video and frank, thanks
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Nov 13, 2006 - 03:09am PT
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back on topic
I've rapped a couple routes, two or three are even really good. But they don't have the value that the ground up ones did.
It doesn't take that much to put them in top down. The adventure quotient is redued.
In retrospect I think I put them in TD in haste to get them done when a partner didn't show. These days I just wait for a partner or start working on another project.
However, when dealing with highly fragile or crappy rock. Style is rejected in favor of safety in that limited subset of routes. Not sure why. Have to think on that some more.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
Otto, NC
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Nov 13, 2006 - 10:43am PT
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Kinda depends on the terrain, don't you think? I was never a rap-bolter until I left the slabs behind and discovered overhanging 40' choss with a talus landing...you'd be stupid to even try and aid up that sh#t. Easy to spray about the dictates of style when you only seek out one kind of climbing.
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Mimi
climber
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Nov 13, 2006 - 11:45am PT
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Maybe a giant extension ladder or a heap of mattresses would free you from your ethical dilemma.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Nov 13, 2006 - 12:46pm PT
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if it takes bolts at all it should be aidable at least.
but for me that's not my thing, I would clean sh#t top down like at Table Mountain, CA. OTherwise you could ride a block to the ground.
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ablegabel
Trad climber
Livermore,Ca.
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Nov 13, 2006 - 12:47pm PT
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[url=http://img119.imageshack.us/my.php?image=scan0002ks0.jpg]{{img}}h~~p://img119.imageshack.us/img119/9213/scan0002ks0.th.jpg[/img][/url]
My first atempt at posting a photo! Can,t believe I even got it to show up.
 Chiken Skinner -Warbler-
This is the Dike travers out to the main main crack system on the Super Nova Wall.
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Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2006 - 01:03pm PT
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Abelgabel,
Nice shot and good job on the route. Looks like a classic pitch.
Mungeclimber, That possibilty can be part of the adventure.
Ken
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Nov 13, 2006 - 02:19pm PT
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IMA skeeredy kat tho. :)
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bringmedeath
climber
la la land
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Nov 13, 2006 - 02:20pm PT
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Come to washington and climb all these cliffs on the westside ground up. You will be climbing a vertical sea of moss, at times several inches thick. I will continue to climb top down as long as it holds my intrest. Wire brushes in hand... scrub scrub scrub.
When I come to Cali, I can only dream, rock everywhere that is clean and ready to go. Someday...
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