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Messages 1 - 28 of total 28 in this topic |
survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Mar 28, 2016 - 01:20pm PT
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That one looks almost doable.
But only if I have a rope gun and a pair of jugs handy!!
Wouldn't it be cool if we had Woodward to post up some thoughts?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2016 - 01:36pm PT
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Yes it would indeed.
I don't think Jonny gets to the forum much?
[edit] Thanks crusher, I fixed Jonny's name in the text, but can't reverse the thread title!
(Apologies Jonny)
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Mar 28, 2016 - 01:50pm PT
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Hey Tarbuster, it's Jonny, no "H" involved.
I think Jonny may have posted, like, one post somewhere.
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Mar 28, 2016 - 01:57pm PT
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He does occasionally show up on the Woodson thread as jonnywoodward. Even ran into him once up at Woodson. Nice gent.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Mar 28, 2016 - 02:14pm PT
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this 11a pitch7 worked everyone who climbed it. Greg Murphy climbed it with Chandlee Harrell- probably second accent , and Chandlee told that it was his most proud lead.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2016 - 02:28pm PT
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Thanks skcreidc!
Woodward has actually been on the forum a handful of times, and recently.
I just PM'd him.
----------------------
Good one Alexey!
I didn't expect anyone would chime in with firsthand experience so quickly!
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 28, 2016 - 02:49pm PT
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I did this route with Merry a long time ago after Johnny and Coz.
Good route and you'll probably never have to worry about anyone else being on it.
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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Mar 28, 2016 - 05:03pm PT
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I found old Greg's post on ST
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=1194147&tn=40
G Murphy
Trad climber
Oakland CA
Jun 17, 2010 - 12:17pm PT
Someone asked about more detail on Ribbon Candy. The Yosemite guidebook calls it IV 5.11c**. FA Woodward and Coz 1988. I did it with Chan Harrell in 1994 on a beautiful October day. First 5 pitches are 5.9-5.10 range with some bushes and stuff; nothing notable. Pitch 6 is all time. I actually wrote, "Best 5.11c pitch in the Valley" in my book. Perfect hands traversing left for a ways on a overhanging wall. Lots of golds and blues. The 7th pitch is stout and sporty. 5.11a open handed laybacking in a shallow flaring crack. Gear from the small stuff to a couplpe 4" and 5" pieces (I don't think we had 5" pieces at the time). I'd give the pitch the "r" rating.
Next pitches were strenuous or we were just getting tired. The last move is an OW out a short roofy flare.
Real old school trad Yosemite climbing.
I'll put in a plug for Direct North FAce of Sentinel while I'm at it.
Greg
And than couple of years ago I met both of them at Arch Rock and asked about Ribbon Candy again. This is where Chandlee say that P7 was one of his best and hardest leads
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fosburg
climber
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Mar 28, 2016 - 05:16pm PT
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No "H" Werner, get it right. Damn, first you die and resurrect, now this. That 11a pitch is probably way sandbag.
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WBraun
climber
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Mar 28, 2016 - 06:44pm PT
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That 11a pitch is probably way sandbag.
LOL ... you're right, sandbag!!!!
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skcreidc
Social climber
SD, CA
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Mar 29, 2016 - 07:06am PT
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A Tar bump. Great post and am hoping to see it flesh out.
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Vitaliy M.
Mountain climber
San Francisco
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Mar 29, 2016 - 07:37am PT
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lol even the 5.10 pitches down low seemed hard for the grade...
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Mar 29, 2016 - 12:41pm PT
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Bible Ben and I backed off pitch 7 about 18 years ago. The sixth pitch hand crack was really good.
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henny
Social climber
The Past
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Mar 29, 2016 - 11:24pm PT
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I think JW might be in England right now, but I'll try giving him a call.
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G Murphy
Trad climber
Oakland CA
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Yup, another full value Coz route.
Greg
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Alexey
climber
San Jose, CA
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here is two years old tread about Ribbon Candy
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2302844&tn=0&mr=0
and I like this quote from mynameismud:
mynameismud
climber
backseat
Jan 2, 2014 - 08:02pm PT
I did Ribon Candy with Steve a few years back. The first few pitches are a bit dirty since they are low angle and the route does not get a lot of traffic. There were a fair amount of leaves on the slabs. It get's steeper higher up. The gear description says doubles through #5. We did not listen but it is accurate. For this I think Camalots might be better since the big Friends might be to wide. Do not know for sure since I do nt have any big Friends.
The 11d pitch is good and pumpy. The next pitch the 11a pitch I found to be the crux. There is some bouldery stuff down low then it is a shallow groove just deep enough to get a good chicken wing. A #4 through #5 camalot will kinda sit in it. The inner lobes the crack is almost to small the outer lobes are almost on the outside of the crack. There is one short section to wide for the #5 so I got outside the crack and lay backed for about 10 to 15 feet. Then there is a short face section to a pod for a rest. Just before the pod you can get a good piece a #2 LoweBall. You will climb above this for a bit. I forgot what it is getting out of the pod. then crack to a small pod with a bush, getting past the bush into the fist crack above was tenous. We had a 60 meter rope and I butt belayed on a dirt ramp.
Next pitch is a short OW to the top.
If the raps have not improved they suck. After topping out drop down over the other side off to the right a bit. There is a small Oak tree and you need to get the rope as low as possible in order to reach the two crappy 1/4" bolts. We did not and I had to hang up side down to reach the bolts. Someone told us to bring a bolt kit to replace/put in new anchors. We both wished we had.
I consider the 11a one of my best leads ever. Gear is not the best, you kinda gotta go for it. Maybe it is not as hard as I remember but it seemed burly. Oh, for the longest time there was a one word description in the Yosemite Guide book in the climbing shop. That word.
Burly.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2016 - 07:24pm PT
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I like that one too, Alexey.
Thanks for digging it up!
I went to that thread and read through it.
It looks like Cosgrove might have posted up on it before he got deleted.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Roy,
It looks like Cosgrove might have posted up on it before he got deleted. Yep, Coz posted the FFA story on that thread, sometime between Feb 10 and 14, 2014.
My post on Feb 10, 2014 thanked him for the story, and so did Big Mike on Feb 15.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/2302844/Ribbon-Candy-anyone-here-climbed-it (second page of this).
It looks like Coz asked Werner some questions, too, since we can see Werner's answers but not the questions.
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Sheets
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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This thread convinced me. Gonna check it out this year.
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jonnywoodward
climber
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Apr 11, 2016 - 04:27pm PT
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The YDS sometimes isn't very good at pinpointing the hardest bit to lead, the bit you're most likely to fail on. 5.whatever.... pitch 6 is probably E3, pitch 7, E4. Hope that helps.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 12, 2016 - 01:14pm PT
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Hey, thanks for posting up Jonny!
Of course, what you just said makes perfect sense.
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mynameismud
climber
backseat
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Apr 12, 2016 - 06:16pm PT
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looking at the topo I just realized that I linked 6 and 7. That is a rope stretcher using a 60. I actually could not get all the way up to the belay and just kind of had to dig my heals into the dirt ramp and do a butt belay. Perhaps a bit sub optimal
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jonnywoodward
climber
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Apr 18, 2016 - 07:38am PT
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Just looked at a couple of those other threads. It's a pity that Supertopo admin feels that it is necessary to delete every contribution a banned member ever made to a site. Other sites deal with the issue by merely preventing them from posting anything new, which is a much better solution. It would have been nice to read Coz's thoughts on the FA, but oh well.
I was going to post up some historical stuff myself, but I've heard from reliable sources that those who climb, do, those who don't, post. Haha.
Edit. My assuption on Supertopo's policy was wrong. Apparently the default for banned members is to prevent new posts and leave old ones. In Coz's particular case he requested all his posts be deleted, one which ST honored.
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Sep 25, 2017 - 09:06pm PT
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I just made a long delayed trip to the Valley. I had my non-climbing family stop at the first El-Cap view. Having climbed the Right-side of the Hourglass (*spray alert*), I caught this image of the over-the-top of Ribbon Falls Amphitheater. What are these climbs, especially the OW?
Darwin
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