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Clayman
Trad climber
CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Apr 22, 2004 - 04:45pm PT
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This route looks beautiful. Are there any topos are beta out there? Thanks.
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tahoe523
Trad climber
Station Wagon, USA
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7 year bump.
Anyone have a backstory to this route? This photo was just featured on the front page.
Zero search results.
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Lots of Sean's routes are not listed in any book. He lurks here at times. See if you can fine one of his posts from the Growing Up thread & e-mail him direct. He'll probabally reply. He's a nice guy & usually willing to help out.
P.S. See if you can fine out about his 5.11c route in the Ribbon Falls area. Might it be the same? Somebody mentioned this 5.11c on the Yosemite 5.11 & 5.12 long routes thread recently.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Ribbon Falls West - Upper Tier (300', AAJ 2004)
FA partners include Tucker Tech, Blair Dixson, Boone Jones, Lonnie Kauk, Brian Ketron
780. Harold 5.11b
781. White Eagle Woman 5.10a
782. The Dreaming Tree 5.12a
783. Zeus 5.10c
784. Paiute Pride 5.10b
785. Universal Garden 5.11d
786. Persephone Butterfly 5.11d, 3p
I can also tell you:
It tops out 300' L (west) of Ribbon Falls.
You can approach it from above.
p3 is the arete in the photo - 8 bolts in 100'.
The back story is in the 2004 AAJ, p.167.
http://c498469.r69.cf2.rackcdn.com/2004/156_lower48_aaj2004.pdf#search=%22persephone%20butterfly%22
Ribbon Falls area, new routes.Nearly
a decade after the passing of my
father, I was searching for the ideal
place to put a route up in his
honor, and so my journey to Ribbon
Falls began. On Father’s Day
2000 I hiked to the top, camped,
and started in on the headwall, a
300-foot steep, golden wall littered
with unclimbed cracks. A strip of
forest separates the headwall from
the 1,700-foot wall below. From
this trip and many others we
ended up with 17 pitches, ranging
from 5.10a to 5.12a. The routes
include Harold (5.11b), White
Eagle Woman (5.10a), The Dreaming
Tree (5.12a), Zeus (5.10c),
Paiute Pride (5.10b), Universal
Garden (5.11d), and Persephone
Butterfly (5.11d). Partners included
Tucker Tech, Blair Dixson,
Boone Jones, Lonnie Kauk, and
Brian Ketron. This wall became
dedicated to an array of people,
past and present.
In spring 2001 I went to the
bottom of the amphitheatre with
Phil Kettner and established Sky
People, a 14-pitch Grade V 5.11d.
The route went onsight and has
only one protection bolt. Pro
includes doubles to 2" and one
each to 4". The climbing on Sky
People is comparable to Sentinel,
similar to the Chouinard-Herbert.
It takes you to the forested ledge,
giving you a choice of the exits listed
above. Combining Sky People with
any of the upper routes, you get 17
pitches in about 2,000 feet.
I then turned my focus to
the right side of the amphitheatre.
Jake Jones and I aided the 1,000-
foot corner up the right side of the
golden fin to inspect the potential for a new free route. After 1,000 feet it became apparent that
the route would go, as it there joins Keel Haul, East Portal Route, and Solar Power Aręte routes.
Knowing that these routes go at 5.9, we descended, headed home, and waited for the weather
to cooperate.
We returned on November 18, 2002, and in 10 hours redpointed our new route, The
Gates of Delirium (V 5.12c). It is 19 pitches long, with pro including wires and double cams to
2”, one each to 4-1/2”. The route has fixed anchors for the first 10 pitches, to allow for retreat if
you don’t summit. These 10 pitches are similar to The Rostrum or Astroman. The second half
of the route kicks back in angle and becomes more of a scenic adventure, for a total length of
about 2,200 feet.
The technical crux comes on pitch one, a 5.12 houdini funk corner into a 5.11d finger
crack. Lots of 5.10 jamming and stemming fill the middle of the route. Pitch eight may prove
to be the real crux for some, a burly 5.10c offwidth. Pitch nine offers a steep chimney into 5.11b
finger-and-stemming section and an incredible belay atop the fin. The 5.11d 10th pitch is wild
and steep, and projects you out over the route below. This steep pitch is capped by a bombay
chimney and another 5.11 crux of flared fingers and stemming. With the harder climbing
behind you, 1,200 feet of 5.9 and under takes you to the summit.
The views and exposure on these routes are amazing. In three years and many trips back
I’ve seen no one, only ravens and a million rainbows. Oh the rainbows…maybe I have seen
someone after all.
SEAN JONES
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Levy
Big Wall climber
So Cal
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Clint is 'da man!
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tahoe523
Trad climber
Station Wagon, USA
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If you search "Thanks Clint" on supertopo, you get 570 hits. Well, here's 571. Thanks, Clint. :)
Any chance you know the conditions of the rap bolts or know someone that might?
I found Jim's topo on Gates of Delirium. I like how he calls it a "moderate crack climb". Any idea where I might find a topo for Persephone Butterfly without bugging the first ascensionist?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Shino,
The bolts should be fine - Sean uses 3/8" stainless.
You should be able to find it, as it's the rightmost climb and 300' W of Ribbon Falls.
The top pitch is the crux. Bring RPs to hand sized gear if you want to lead the lower pitch.
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wildone
climber
Troy, MT
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He also uses 10mm stainless from europe.
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tahoe523
Trad climber
Station Wagon, USA
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572 and counting.
Step 1: get psyched on an in over your heard topo-less adventure
Step 2: convince someone gullible enough to follow you blindly
Step 3: bring webbing. extra nuts. the 2 - 3'' kind. and some smaller ones in case you lose the bigger ones.
Thanks, Clint.
P.S. When are we hanging out? ;)
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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These might help you find it, once you find Ribbon Creek / Falls and locate the crag on the rim just to the west.
Bolted anchors at the locations shown on the lower photo.
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cliffhanger
Trad climber
California
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Cool looking route. Thanks Clint.
from Wikipedia:
Prodryas persephone, Persephone Butterfly, is an extinct butterfly, known from a single specimen from Eocene rocks. It was the first fossil butterfly to be found in North America, and is unusually well preserved. Its closest relatives are the genera Hypanartia and Antanartia.
The specific epithet persephone alludes to Persephone, the daughter of Zeus and the harvest goddess Demeter. She became the queen of the underworld when abducted by Hades, the king of the underworld. The myth of her abduction represents her function as the personification of vegetation which shoots forth in spring and withdraws into the earth after harvest; hence she is also associated with spring and with the seeds of the fruits of the fields.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Prodryas
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cliffhanger
Trad climber
California
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Aug 20, 2011 - 12:02pm PT
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Here're a couple of pictures I ran across:
Sean Jones on Persephone Butterfly (5.11d), Ribbon Falls. Shawn Reeder photo. http://propic.com/2Z
Sean Jones on his route "Persephone Butterfly", a super classic line in the Ribbon Falls Ampitheater.
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emfree
Trad climber
San Francisco
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Oct 28, 2016 - 08:37pm PT
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Bump. Has anyone here been up there?
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