Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
|
|
Jun 16, 2010 - 02:18pm PT
|
Fatty, Loose lips fell to earth one day....the entire roof
Orangutan in '85 was good to go, it is a hand crack so how dirty can it get that a bit of maintenance wouldn't fix
|
|
LithiumMetalman
Trad climber
cesspool central
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2010 - 06:16pm PT
|
Horseshoe Hand grenades hands section was fun (quite short!)but the off fingers section to tips was totally wicked!
Tideline, that was fun too! Big reaches to other hand jams I liked that one!
Orangutaun Arch was little dirty but not too bad...
Awesome list growing it's going be a busy climbing season, so stoked!
Thanx guys & gals!
|
|
jedster
climber
|
|
|
Jun 16, 2010 - 09:20pm PT
|
Here's one off the "beaten path" a little bit. Up Pine Creek near Bishop, is what I think is the wildest trad pitch on the Eastside. Semper Farcisimus is on the Silverback Wall, goes 30m up, and overhangs about 8m in that distance. Entirely gear protected, mostly hand sized, rated 10c. The catch is that the rock quality isn't ideal.
|
|
squatch
Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
|
|
|
Jun 16, 2010 - 11:19pm PT
|
the Viper?
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jun 17, 2010 - 12:44am PT
|
LMM,
Well, heck! Hand cracks? Uh, MT. WOODSON, ARE YOU KIDDING! Bouldering but some of the best in the nation! Look me up if you're interested! Getting hot so act quick!
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jun 17, 2010 - 12:55am PT
|
Mother Superior...
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jun 17, 2010 - 01:04am PT
|
The Longs Cracks...
Left Longs...
Right Longs...
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jun 17, 2010 - 01:09am PT
|
Sickle or Banana Crack...
The amazing Undertow Roof...
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jun 17, 2010 - 01:24am PT
|
Baby Robbins...
...and it's backside, Jaw's...
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jun 17, 2010 - 01:28am PT
|
Out of Sight Crack...
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jun 17, 2010 - 01:32am PT
|
The Crucible...
|
|
illusiondweller
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
|
|
|
Jun 17, 2010 - 01:43am PT
|
A bad scan of The Vice Principal's Office...
"the 12- wide you're referring to is probably the vice-principal's office. rick piggot testpiece. and my god, it is burly. significantly harder than mother superior. the grade may be a sandbag." - Bob VanBelle
Just to give you an idea of how overhanging the bottom of this is, if you let go here, you take about a 30 foot pendulum out in space!
|
|
G Murphy
Trad climber
Oakland CA
|
|
|
Jun 17, 2010 - 12:17pm PT
|
Someone asked about more detail on Ribbon Candy. The Yosemite guidebook calls it IV 5.11c**. FA Woodward and Coz 1988. I did it with Chan Harrell in 1994 on a beautiful October day. First 5 pitches are 5.9-5.10 range with some bushes and stuff; nothing notable. Pitch 6 is all time. I actually wrote, "Best 5.11c pitch in the Valley" in my book. Perfect hands traversing left for a ways on a overhanging wall. Lots of golds and blues. The 7th pitch is stout and sporty. 5.11a open handed laybacking in a shallow flaring crack. Gear from the small stuff to a couplpe 4" and 5" pieces (I don't think we had 5" pieces at the time). I'd give the pitch the "r" rating.
Next pitches were strenuous or we were just getting tired. The last move is an OW out a short roofy flare.
Real old school trad Yosemite climbing.
I'll put in a plug for Direct North FAce of Sentinel while I'm at it.
Greg
|
|
Sol Wertkin
climber
Leavenworth, WA
|
|
|
Jun 17, 2010 - 12:27pm PT
|
Washington State's own seperate reality: the full tilt roof on the tempest wall, colchuck balanced rock.
Pinkpointed at 5.12.
|
|
Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
|
|
|
Jun 17, 2010 - 12:28pm PT
|
S x SW
|
|
Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
|
|
|
Jun 17, 2010 - 01:49pm PT
|
Nice photos illusiondweller. I'd give my eye teeth to have Woodson nearby. Sadly, almost no crack of note in LA to keep those skills honed.
|
|
cultureshock
Trad climber
Mountain View
|
|
|
Jun 17, 2010 - 02:26pm PT
|
Not my photo but an amazing looking route. Overhanging Green to tight Red camalots (supposedly black metolius or #2 Friends fit better)
Six Star Crack, Indian Creek
 Luke
|
|
donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
|
|
|
Jun 17, 2010 - 02:43pm PT
|
Now THAT is a crack! Lot's more of them there to.
|
|
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!