overhanging hand crack

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 41 - 60 of total 70 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
wildone

climber
GHOST TOWN
Jun 16, 2010 - 12:25pm PT
TIDELINE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
11a, Olmstead point area, Merry Braun, Dave Yerian.

Super. F*#king. Awesome.

Plus, at either side of the start of the route are two MASSIVE 2000 year old Junipers. Kinda like guardians. You'll see, it's freaky.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Jun 16, 2010 - 12:59pm PT
I'd hestitate to call Cramming hand size for anything but the very top section.

That middle, .10d portion of Leanie Meanie is nice.

BTW, I always heard Orangutan Arch was kind of dirty. No?

Also, what happened to Loose Lips?
wildone

climber
GHOST TOWN
Jun 16, 2010 - 01:39pm PT
I think it got beat up in a fight with tideline.
KP Ariza

climber
SCC
Jun 16, 2010 - 02:18pm PT
Fatty, Loose lips fell to earth one day....the entire roof
Orangutan in '85 was good to go, it is a hand crack so how dirty can it get that a bit of maintenance wouldn't fix
LithiumMetalman

Trad climber
cesspool central
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 16, 2010 - 06:16pm PT
Horseshoe Hand grenades hands section was fun (quite short!)but the off fingers section to tips was totally wicked!

Tideline, that was fun too! Big reaches to other hand jams I liked that one!

Orangutaun Arch was little dirty but not too bad...

Awesome list growing it's going be a busy climbing season, so stoked!

Thanx guys & gals!
jedster

climber
Jun 16, 2010 - 09:20pm PT
Here's one off the "beaten path" a little bit. Up Pine Creek near Bishop, is what I think is the wildest trad pitch on the Eastside. Semper Farcisimus is on the Silverback Wall, goes 30m up, and overhangs about 8m in that distance. Entirely gear protected, mostly hand sized, rated 10c. The catch is that the rock quality isn't ideal.
squatch

Boulder climber
santa cruz, CA
Jun 16, 2010 - 11:19pm PT
the Viper?
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jun 17, 2010 - 12:44am PT
LMM,

Well, heck! Hand cracks? Uh, MT. WOODSON, ARE YOU KIDDING! Bouldering but some of the best in the nation! Look me up if you're interested! Getting hot so act quick!
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jun 17, 2010 - 12:55am PT
Mother Superior...

Credit: Chris Kleppe

Credit: illusiondweller
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jun 17, 2010 - 01:01am PT
Robbins Crack...

Credit: illusiondweller

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yhyou4tJHWM



illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jun 17, 2010 - 01:04am PT
The Longs Cracks...

Left Longs...


Right Longs...

Credit: illusiondweller

illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jun 17, 2010 - 01:09am PT
Sickle or Banana Crack...

Credit: illusiondweller



The amazing Undertow Roof...

Credit: illusiondweller
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jun 17, 2010 - 01:11am PT
The short yet powerful Monkey Crack...

Credit: illusiondweller

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X9mhD7d1AR4&feature=related
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jun 17, 2010 - 01:24am PT
Baby Robbins...

Credit: illusiondweller

...and it's backside, Jaw's...

illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jun 17, 2010 - 01:28am PT
Out of Sight Crack...

Credit: illusiondweller

&#40;a bit lower angle than depicted here&#41;
(a bit lower angle than depicted here)
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jun 17, 2010 - 01:32am PT
The Crucible...

Credit: illusiondweller

Credit: illusiondweller
illusiondweller

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Jun 17, 2010 - 01:43am PT
A bad scan of The Vice Principal's Office...

Credit: illusiondweller

"the 12- wide you're referring to is probably the vice-principal's office. rick piggot testpiece. and my god, it is burly. significantly harder than mother superior. the grade may be a sandbag." - Bob VanBelle

Just to give you an idea of how overhanging the bottom of this is, if you let go here, you take about a 30 foot pendulum out in space!
G Murphy

Trad climber
Oakland CA
Jun 17, 2010 - 12:17pm PT
Someone asked about more detail on Ribbon Candy. The Yosemite guidebook calls it IV 5.11c**. FA Woodward and Coz 1988. I did it with Chan Harrell in 1994 on a beautiful October day. First 5 pitches are 5.9-5.10 range with some bushes and stuff; nothing notable. Pitch 6 is all time. I actually wrote, "Best 5.11c pitch in the Valley" in my book. Perfect hands traversing left for a ways on a overhanging wall. Lots of golds and blues. The 7th pitch is stout and sporty. 5.11a open handed laybacking in a shallow flaring crack. Gear from the small stuff to a couplpe 4" and 5" pieces (I don't think we had 5" pieces at the time). I'd give the pitch the "r" rating.
Next pitches were strenuous or we were just getting tired. The last move is an OW out a short roofy flare.
Real old school trad Yosemite climbing.

I'll put in a plug for Direct North FAce of Sentinel while I'm at it.

Greg
Sol Wertkin

climber
Leavenworth, WA
Jun 17, 2010 - 12:27pm PT
Washington State's own seperate reality: the full tilt roof on the tempest wall, colchuck balanced rock.

Pinkpointed at 5.12.



Melissa

Gym climber
berkeley, ca
Jun 17, 2010 - 12:28pm PT
S x SW
Messages 41 - 60 of total 70 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews